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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello boys and girls first here are some pictures of my jeep and a little background information on her.. ( ill mark them in sections )

so my dad bought her 14 years ago, and did a little modding just like the tires back bumper, top, hood vent. replaced some inside the mechanical place parts as well..
bought i bought it from him almost 2 years ago but i grew up in the jeep, such good memories with him every day riding in the jeep going on trails and exploring.

now that he is older he like just sitting home and relaxing so i bought the jeep at the perfect time, alot of parts are going bad and ive got to fix them haha. but i am more than glad to get under there and get my hnads dirty, i love this vehicle, for me all i need is my guitar and jeep and im good to go.

she doesnt have a top right now, just a bimini top with windows with holes and some black stray painted lattuce i put in the back 2 days ago just out of boredom.

Lockers Question
Okay so like i stated, i own a 94 yj . im pretty sure the axles are stock, or atleast should be. my father says he had "The back end replaced" but thats about as much in depth as he goes on that . but i am guessing my rear end is a dana 35? and the front is a dana 30? . now this is what i think i read they come stoock with . but is there any way to be sure ? like can i crawl under there and look what would be some identifying marks, or shapes i could use to determine my model?

also any locker recommendations?
im thinking about going with the ox lockers just for this cool skid plate


ol jeepy
looking a little rough today, not sure why.
i finally got a job that pays some money and almost 90% of my paycheck is going towards this Tuff bastard
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You can identify the axle by looking at the diff cover. Google for the image of the Dana 35

Most of us here don't recommend lockers in a Dana 35. An 8.8 swap is a common upgrade.

I always worried about the Ox actuator getting knocked off by an obstacle, so I went with ARB air lockers.
 

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Most likely a D35. post a pic to be sure.

With tires that size, you might not want to spend a lot of money on that axle as big tires and lockers can make it iffy in the longevity department. Maybe a cheap aussie locker or similar that you can install yourself and take the money you saves and buy a new top
 

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You can identify the axle by looking at the diff cover. Google for the image of the Dana 35 Most of us here don't recommend lockers in a Dana 35. An 8.8 swap is a common upgrade. I always worried about the Ox actuator getting knocked off by an obstacle, so I went with ARB air lockers.
Ox revised their actuator it's very small now my buddy Chris has an ox air locker in his TJ. You can get a neat little tool to manually lock and unlock incase the actuator goes out. For 25.00 . They also take a standard size air line so you can goto practically any store to get it. Not to mention the quick release fittings making trail repairs a snap. I've been researching arb, Ox air , and Yukon Zip for over a year. For when I regear I'm leaning towards Ox or Zip. Also don't waste a penny on a d35 IMO it isn't worth the cost of 2qts of diff fluid. But that's why I have a 8.8 in my garage that'll be getting built.
 

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Also don't waste a penny on a d35 IMO it isn't worth the cost of 2qts of diff fluid. But that's why I have a 8.8 in my garage that'll be getting built.
 

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The Ox actuator comes out the side of the cover: Most ARB air lines are routed out of the top of the pumpkin, and will be better protected.
that is the old Ox air set up. This is the current style much more low profile and the fitting that comes out swivels.
 

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that is the old Ox air set up. This is the current style much more low profile and the fitting that comes out swivels.
The issue is the same - even with the smaller fitting, it would be easy to bash it on a rock, log or stump. I'm just pointing out one of the weaknesses of the Ox design - it really depends on the type of wheeling you do. It could be a huge consideration or no worry at all - the OP will have to make that determination for himself.
 

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The issue is the same - even with the smaller fitting, it would be easy to bash it on a rock, log or stump. I'm just pointing out one of the weaknesses of the Ox design - it really depends on the type of wheeling you do. It could be a huge consideration or no worry at all - the OP will have to make that determination for himself.
This is the only downside I saw when I was looking at the ARB or OX. I just didn't like the connection hanging out the side, my cover shows the scratches from sliding over the rocks, having the connection there just seemed like a poor design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the info, and yes i definitely want the tube thing coming out of the top, i drive over so many things it would worry me.
The Ox actuator comes out the side of the cover:



Most ARB air lines are routed out of the top of the pumpkin, and will be better protected.

that looks something sick. ^^

I am going to google shortly about the 8.8 but first i want to post a few more questions.

if i buy an 8.8 for the rear end do i need one for the front as well?
where can i get this 8.8. what are the best ways.


also off topic, but
im trying to find some sort of metal wire or weave or something similar to the metal housings on the stock lighting on my jeep, this weekend i am planning to instal some new aux lighting as well as this new rampage top (so excited have been without a top and in the elements for almost 2 harsh winters here)

but where could i get some sort of metal weave like i stated to bend around and bolt down to protect my new lighting?
 

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I think what you are looking to save the lights is called expanded metal, you should start a new thread and ask about this and you will get more help.
 

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I have the OX up front and ford 8.8LS in the rear. When I bought my YJ it had 4:10 gearing in the rear and 3.75 up front. When I had 4:10 installed up front I had the OX installed. Later I found a free stock 8.8LS 4:10 and added that to the rear.
 
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