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Discussion Starter #1
So I purchased a 1993 YJ with a 4.0L motor and 153,000 miles on it back in October. In my haste to purchase the Jeep I did not look to much at the suspension and figured that the previous owners had done the lift correctly. Much to my dismay it was not the case and the spring over that they did is pretty rough and I want to correct it. I am working on my list of parts and just wanted to see if anyone had any tips to watch out for or anything such as that. I am basically rebuilding the whole suspension and keeping it as a spring over, unless anyone thinks it would be easier/better ride to go another route.

I purchased the Jeep to work on, I just wasn't expecting this big of a project. I have access to folks that can weld and my Pops is a great mechanic but he's never worked on a Jeep. So with all that said it's a project and is not my main vehicle so I want to get this done correctly and be able to enjoy it without worry about the suspension going out.
 

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I am still learning but I have heard that Spring Over will give you better articulation... depending on what you are planning to do and how much damage may/could have been done during their installation it definitely may be worth keeping it that way. I plan on eventually doing a coil over for the articulation in crawling. Hopefully somebody will come along who is more knowledgeable than I... In the meantime it wouldn't hurt find a decent coil over kit and check their kit specs/items to what you see on your jeep. ??? Just a thought :)
 

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Sorry... I meant a Coil Over... may be the same thing... maybe not... haha
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It has 35's on it right now so whatever I do I want to keep those. I probably won't use it as much for a rock crawler but more of a get up in the mountains, cross streams and such and just play around. Nothing extreme, but I do want to do it right and have it ride correctly.
 

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Might as well buy a tj


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Post up some pics of the steering and spring perches. As well as any traction bars they may have running to the rear axle. Also, take pics of the skid plate and rear yoke of transfer case to see if it has a slip yoke eliminator or transfer case drop on it. Let us see what's all wrong with it before we go throwing stuff out there lol

What I listed are the main places to mess up and cheap out on.
 

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I'm using custom made Alcan Springs. MORE (mountain offroad) Steering Correction kit. MORE rear traction bar. The Steering correction kit was awesome. Made the vehicle drivable on the street. I use Rancho 9k's. Level 9 on the street, level 5 on the trail. If you do not have a slip yoke eliminator, go Super Shorty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will get some pics up shortly. It's been raining a lot and lately. I know I already have the slip yoke eliminator. I had the guys at the local 4Wheel Parts look at it and they've quoted me on a lot of parts, I just want to make sure I am heading in the correct direction.

Here is the one pic I do have.
 

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The biggest thing is to fix the steering, if it's still stock. The stock drag link can hit the spring when it's SOA. There are multiple kits out there. Rocky Road makes a full high steer kit, and Blue Torch Fab makes a crossover steering bracket.

The next thing is a traction bar in the rear, to keep the rear springs from wrapping. Multiple kits out there for that as well. Look at Ruff Stuff.

What stuff are you pricing out? What direction are you going with it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know that they used the factory springs and on the front there is no sway bar, and they used the sway bar mounts for the shocks so the shocks are way too short. In the back they cut the traction bar out and there is just a nub. It will all make sense once I can show y'all some pics.

The guy I talked about it all with at the 4Wheel store quoted me on keeping the spring over and just reworking it with the right parts. He's quoted me on new springs, shocks, shock mounts, bushings, stabilizer bar on the front, swaybar bushings. I know this isn't all that I will need but I feel like it's a good start. I agree that I will need a traction bar on the rear and that isn't in the quote.

That's why I was curious if it would be easier to just but a new suspension lift kit and flip it all back over like it was originally. I know I would still need knew springs because the ones that are on it now are shot.
 

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Sounds like you should just throw new shocks on it, along with a traction bar. I never ran a sway bar when I was SOA. And do crossover/hi steer if it hasn't been done already.

That rear track bar they cut out, don't need it. That keeps the axle from moving side to side, which the leaf springs already do. A traction bar keeps the axle planted, so the rear springs don't twist when the axle starts hopping.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's good a pretty significant wobble from side to side as it is right now and it's sort of sketchy. I would like to correct it and have a good, solid driving jeep so I don't have to worry about it.

Here are some pics:

















 

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I used to have a 95' YJ that was sprung over on 2.5" Rubicon Express leafs, Shackle reversal up front, and a 1" body lift with 35's. You definitely want to make sure the entire spring over conversion was done correctly first, but there are a lot of other items you want to check on as well such as. From the pictures it looks like your leaf springs are just about shot and are starting to develop a negative arch to them. You may want to consider swapping those out for a set of new leaf springs. Also it's important to make sure that when the previous owner did the conversion that they welded the spring perches on correctly and that you have an in spec driveline angle. Some other items to consider are: A slip-yoke eliminator, a high-steer kit, proper length shocks, and a traction bar for the rear if you plan to go wheeling a lot. We never ran track bar's or sway bars front and rear on our rig, and it did just fine on the road. A Spring over conversion is great if done right.

If you have any other questions just let me know!

-Jake

 

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You definitely need new springs. Those are pretty sagged. And a traction bar in the rear to prevent it from happening again. Try to get HD stock springs, or the Rubicon Express 1.5" SOA leaves.

As for track bars, most people take them off. They really don't do much for us besides hurt ride quality. You might be surprised how much new springs bushings tightens up your steering as well. If you put new springs and bushings in and still aren't happy, try a front track bar only. It might tighten up your steering a touch. But you'll need a relocation bracket for it, and don't be surprised when it hurts ride quality. The rear one won't help with anything.

For steering, yours is an OK solution, and it'll work. Real crossover or high steer is ideal. But it'll work.

You already have an SYE and the pinion angle looks good as well.

My recommendation is throw new springs and a traction bar on it and see what you think before dropping money on everything.
 

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35" tires and the rear Dana 35 are not a winning combination.

I hate to make this into a bigger project for you, but to prevent future problems, you should also do an 8.8 rear axle swap, since you want to keep the 35" tires.
 

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Start with the springs. As mentioned already, the current springs appear to be going negative arch. One of my favorite upgrades was custom springs. They are specifically designed for your application. You will need the individual weight of the front and rear axle. Custom springs last longer and work better. Also more expensive. At least give them a call. I use Alcan Springs. I'm sure other custom manufacturers can also do a great job.

I used to kill a set of springs every few months. I broke a rear Alcan after 9 or 10 years. The Jeep also got heavier in that time period. I was well outside the original design.


http://www.alcanspring.com
 

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Discussion Starter #17
35" tires and the rear Dana 35 are not a winning combination.

I hate to make this into a bigger project for you, but to prevent future problems, you should also do an 8.8 rear axle swap, since you want to keep the 35" tires.
Can the Dana 35 be regeared to work better or is it easier to swap it out? I got this as a project vehicle to build it correctly and have fun with it so I dont mind the list growing, it will just have to be tackled slowly. I want it to be a fun off road vehicle and not specific to rock crawling, I want it to get me to the fishing streams way up in the mountains and and cross some water if need be.
 

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The problem with the D35 is strength. It just isn't designed to handle tires that are bigger than stock. Most people draw the line at 31-33" tires.

The most common swap is an 8.8 from a 96-01 explorer. They are cheap, have disc brakes, and are easy to swap. It could be done along with the rest of your springs and stuff for an extra $300-500 depending on how much you find the axle for.
 

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8.8s are easily found with 4.10s. What matters is what gears you have in the D30. They'll need to match.
 
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