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Discussion Starter #21
Agreed with GottaGo. We have nothing to gain here. I myself have a rough country lift and due to this lift I CANNOT imagine driving my jeep out of town for a short road trip. It is that rough. Ive also changed out the rc nitro shocks for skyjacker hydros, still rough but not as much. My lift is also just over 1 year old. That's the main reason for getting my old man emu lift...which should be delivered today but i dont have time until the weekend to install.
I still look forward to hearing your honest feelings after you get the lift on. You will have the truest opinion having then had both on the same jeep.

The difference for me is still going to be, yours is a daily driver, mine is a 20 mile a week driver. I think you see what I mean, the difference has to be three times better to warrant me spending twice the money.
 

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I currently own 6 jeeps.... have had or still have rough country, bds, stock, and 3 different versions of re yj springs.... the rough country springs I had were old and I only drove on them less than 1/4 mile so I have limited driving experience.... they were horrible and I scrapped em.... the re's.... the 2.5 extreme duty (now discontinued) were absolutely amazing.... best riding jeep I ever experienced.... I still have them.... re 4" standard duty were pretty good but didn't hold up to my hard wheeling. I destroyed em in a few months.... re 4.5" extreme duty are amazing again but I would say just due to the added height the ride isn't quite as nice as the 2.5 extremes.... bds 2.5... very nice ride, not quite as soft or flexy as re but very good all around and best warranty out there....

Stock.... stiffer than either bds or any of the re springs plus w limited up travel available more prone to bottoming on bigger bumps esp while articulated...

I have not had ome personally but have spoken w enough folks that switched to them to be confident im their ride quality...

I have also known a few folks to order custom springs from alcan spring with great results...

I have also had 6" rough country springs on the front of a suburban w add a leafs and blocks in the rear plus a 3" body lift, running 42" swampers.... that was a long time ago but those springs were unbelievably hard....
IE, run over a nickel and feel whether it was heads or tales....
Back then, all that mattered was height and big tires so I ran em for years and just dealt w the ride...
At that point in my life, $50 was a lot of money for me so I ran whatever I could scrounge up used.
Come to think of it I may actually still have em.... scrapped that suburban 20 years ago
 

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Here is a Lift Thread.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/yj-lift-reviews-25156.html

Reading through, you may notice that most people that go from stock to RC, love them. The people that go from RC to RE/OME/BDS hate RC, lol.
Even your resale value goes up with a higher quality lift, if the buyer is aware.

As far as steering components, I have a little list that I compiled into a shopping list on Amazon. I will see how easy it will be to post it here.
 

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I like Moog, sue me. Most will suggest the Ball Joints to be Spicer. Most will suggest the Wheel bearings to be Timken.

I will be replacing these components before I ever think about a lift or wheels.

Jeep YJ Front suspension
Amazon.com: Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit
Amazon.com: MOOG 513084 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
Amazon.com: RuffStuff Specialties Y-Link Steering Tie Rod "CURE" Jeep YJ
Amazon.com: Moog ES3095R Tie Rod End
Amazon.com: Moog K3161T Ball Joint
Amazon.com: Moog K3134T Ball Joint
Amazon.com: Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Amazon.com: Moog ES2323S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Amazon.com: Moog DS1236S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Amazon.com: Moog DS1237 Tie Rod End
Amazon.com: Moog ES3094L Tie Rod End
 

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You will find some posters know EVERYTHING and if you deviate one millimeter from their suggestions, Doom is soon to follow. Others have learned through trial and error what works or is generally good ideas/parts/options for your questions. I am neither, I have to much to learn. It's your Jeep, do what makes you, your wallet and your spouse happy.
 

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Btw... as to the original question, my answer is to only replace whatever NEEDS replaced.... pulling off good parts and buying new is a waste of money...
If your steering damper is blown out then replace it w a <$20 unit at your local parts store....
Ball joints same thing, look for wear ie slop... I'm in the spicer camp on them
Tie rod ends again same thing.... if worn, replace em...

Steel is steel and new steel is no better than old steel if it is undamaged..
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It's your Jeep, do what makes you, your wallet and your spouse happy.
Amen to that. My wallet can handle the expense of whatever springs and kit, but it can do so because I try to be very thoughtful on all of my purchases, I don't like to spend money unnecessarily. I like to make informed decisions and get the best bang for my buck, it leaves $$$ for other projects.

An example, when I bought my tractor, I could have afforded a John Deere, but did a ton of research and went with Mahindra instead. The incredible cost to value ratio, has never let me down and I have money left over. For my use, I have a tractor that performs and does everything I need it to do, at a lower price tag and a different color. I was not willing to pay a premium for green paint.

Same goes here, why spend the extra money when there is not that great of a return. If I was rock crawling, or if this was my daily driver, sure, spend the cash. Last night I jumped in the jeep and went up to Dairy Queen and bought an ice cream cone (aside: try the new Dreamsicle dipped cone, it's awesome). It was a total trip time of maybe 10 minutes and 3 miles. But it put a smile on my face...top down, doors off.

I need springs comfortable enough that the ice cream doesn't pop out of my cone on the drive home! Lol.

As for keeping the wife happy, she's good, she even let the jeep have its own bank account and debit card. Literally. It's noted at our bank as the "Jeep Account."
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I like Moog, sue me. Most will suggest the Ball Joints to be Spicer. Most will suggest the Wheel bearings to be Timken.

I will be replacing these components before I ever think about a lift or wheels.

Jeep YJ Front suspension
Amazon.com: Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit
Amazon.com: MOOG 513084 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
Amazon.com: RuffStuff Specialties Y-Link Steering Tie Rod "CURE" Jeep YJ
Amazon.com: Moog ES3095R Tie Rod End
Amazon.com: Moog K3161T Ball Joint
Amazon.com: Moog K3134T Ball Joint
Amazon.com: Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Amazon.com: Moog ES2323S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Amazon.com: Moog DS1236S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Amazon.com: Moog DS1237 Tie Rod End
Amazon.com: Moog ES3094L Tie Rod End
This!! Thank you, what a great reference and you did a better job than I did at getting this thread back on track to its original purpose, you are a gentleman and a scholar!

This will be a great reference depending on what I find as I get the jeep up in the air!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
the re's.... the 2.5 extreme duty (now discontinued) were absolutely amazing.... best riding jeep I ever experienced.... I still have them.... re 4" standard duty were pretty good but didn't hold up to my hard wheeling. I destroyed em in a few months.... re 4.5" extreme duty are amazing again but I would say just due to the added height the ride isn't quite as nice as the 2.5 extremes.... bds 2.5... very nice ride, not quite as soft or flexy as re but very good all around and best warranty out there....
The BDS it appears only comes in a 2 inch kit, not the 2.5. So I think that will be out.

So I wonder if the standard duty RE would be close to as good as the older extreme duty that is no longer offered? I priced that set-up and it would only be a little over $100 more than what I was going to do with the Rough Country, and for a marked difference that is worth the price of admission. Plus the RE system comes with sway bar discos, so there's added value there!
 

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I can't say for sure but I suspect they would be similar to the 4".... they rode nice but didn't hold up to extreme abuse.... I can't guarantee them like I can the extremes they used to make....

You also COULD consider a combination of 2" springs plus 1.25" body lift....


Fwiw, I wouldn't buy ANY kit, I have always found that buying individual parts gets me better deals and a better combo.... kits often have a lot of fluff to help sell the kit that you don't need pus just because you decide on say re springs doesn't mean you want re shocks.

Kits are easy and the ones that can show more parts in a pic for the same price or lower than another are big sellers....

A quality spring is imho MORE important driving to dairy queen than playing in the woods....

Tires at 7 psi takes a LOT of the bone jarring away vs 25 to 30 on the street
 

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A quality spring is imho MORE important driving to dairy queen than playing in the woods....

Tires at 7 psi takes a LOT of the bone jarring away vs 25 to 30 on the street
Interesting thought. Makes me want to go get a chocolate dipped cone.

We're usually driving much slower on the trail so that the rocks, ruts and potholes aren't as noticeable no matter what springs or tires we're running.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Interesting.... i wonder if these ARE the old extreme duty, just not called extreme anymore?

EDIT: trying to remember a conversation I had w the RE people many years ago about the 2 1/2" springs.... thinkin MAYBE they told me they WERE the same as the old extreme duty springs..... can't be sure tho
 

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It took every bit of will power I had plus a big chunk of nestle choc chip cookie dough to keep from going to DQ tonight.... lol
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Interesting.... i wonder if these ARE the old extreme duty, just not called extreme anymore?

EDIT: trying to remember a conversation I had w the RE people many years ago about the 2 1/2" springs.... thinking MAYBE they told me they WERE the same as the old extreme duty springs..... can't be sure tho
I will have to call them direct and ask them. I think RE is the way I am leaning. I may go kit just to be easier for the short term, get it all in in one box and knock it out. Then upgrade my shocks down line a bit.

I am ready to get the lift decided on and installed, so I can move on to the winch decision. Lord if I put up a thread about thoughts on winches... :rofl2::rofl2:
 

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Wenches are fun especially when plied with grog.
Grog is a naval drink (British navy). Have you ever tried to get a wench aboard ship?
The only one we ever got aboard was fat and had a mustache. She was real popular until a First Class Petty Officer found out about her.
He arrested her and took her to his cabin, then put her ashore a week later without charges.
Rank hath privilege.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Btw... as to the original question, my answer is to only replace whatever NEEDS replaced.... pulling off good parts and buying new is a waste of money...
If your steering damper is blown out then replace it w a <$20 unit at your local parts store....
Ball joints same thing, look for wear ie slop... I'm in the spicer camp on them
Tie rod ends again same thing.... if worn, replace em...

Steel is steel and new steel is no better than old steel if it is undamaged..
And as a different perspective, I mostly tend to agree with that.

But, when replacing ball joints, I do them all based on the amount of work involved. Tie rods can be done as per wear. Wheel bearings, I replace both sides at the same time. And I have never needed new adjusting sleeves.

But that is what is good about this forum. Lots of people throwing ideas into the soup and you can pick n choose what you like.
 

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ABSOLUTELY..... if you need one ball joint, at least do both on that side, but yeah, I've always done em in sets of 4...
 
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