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Discussion Starter #1
Bought this jeep yj and I've had nothing but steering issues with it. It does got bump steer but the major issue is road wonder. It wonders back and forth at 30mph. You dont feel it in the wheel it's like something is loose.

The build
- soa
- 2 inchs of leaf lift
- cj front end
- sbc with th350
- dual exhaust
- aftermarket steering linkage
- 35 inch tires

Issues found
- 0 degree castor
- 1 to half an inch sping sag in front
- Passenger side ball joint slight play
 

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:welcome: to the Forum..:wavey:
 

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Welcome to the Forum KING OF AUDIO,

Caster spec should be around 6*.
Spring sag might not be an issue. SOA might be.
Replace all the ball joints.
Rear drive shaft looks to be angled for dual cardan drive shaft with slip yoke eliminator. You have what appears to be a stock drive shaft with a stock slip yoke.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Get under there and check for play, much easier to do if you have an assistant at the steering wheel where you can watch and feel each part. I just went through all of mine and the ball joints were fine but the tie rod ends were toast. Your tie rod ends look very different from mine though. I also snugged up my steering box about 1/4 turn. Helped a touch.

My rear drive shaft angle looked identical to yours. You need to decide what you are ultimately going to do with your rig. Around town, gravel roads or rock crawling, etc. Then you can decide which direction you want to go (and how much $) to fix that rear angle. I did a transfer case drop on mine and I am good to go.

You have a wealth of information at your disposal with this forum, lots of great folks here!

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm just going to shim the front end as it's easier then moving the perches. For the rear end I'm going to shim it 8 degrees to attempt to mask the issue for now.

How much does caster affect handling?
 

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With that driveshaft the pinion and TC output shaft angles need to match. If you shim the rear axle so that the pinion angle drops, there's a good chance you'll increase your vibrations.
A transfer case drop and/or a motor mount lift might help until you do a SYE and custom driveshaft.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What I've ripped out. 3 inch body lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 37 tires replaced with 35s.

The driving straight issue is bigger priority. Just going to leave the rear end for now.

Thinking about going with a 1 inch leaf lift to lower it instead of 2. The pitman isn't 100% centered anymore as I've been lowering it. To compensate ive been moving the steering wheel to correct for center. Do I need to deal with that?

Front shocks I know arnt correct. But can I leave them like this?

There is other issues like 4x4 dosent work as the hardware is missing. Gas tank dosent have a breather(learned that the hard way). There is a nasty boo boo on the frame from previous owner not noticing a snapped shackle for years. I thought it was a rust hole but notice how its rounded to match the leaf.


The order list
-Passenger ball joints
-8 degee shims for front
-U bolts
-Bushings
-1 or 2 inch leafs
 

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"Thinking about going with a 1 inch leaf lift to lower it instead of 2. The pitman isn't 100% centered anymore as I've been lowering it. To compensate ive been moving the steering wheel to correct for center. Do I need to deal with that?".....

You doing this by turning (adjusting) your drag link? That will affect alignment.

With all that you have removed so far, that should have helped your angles and hopefully vibrations. Sounds like you are on the right track.
 

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If it were mine, I'd get RE 4.5" extreme springs and go back to sua....
 

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" What I've ripped out. 3 inch body lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 37 tires replaced with 35s."

Depending on the original installation of the lift. You might want to also check your Radiator positioning.
 

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If it were mine, I'd get RE 4.5" extreme springs and go back to sua....
Yep, this ⬆. And start looking at heim joint wear. They certainly don’t look fresh.
 

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Honestly the longer I study the pics the worse it gets....

Check out the scary track bar bracket... S shaped springs... too long shackles... I personally don't like heims at all but those do look like they have some age...
 

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I'm just going to shim the front end as it's easier then moving the perches. For the rear end I'm going to shim it 8 degrees to attempt to mask the issue for now.

How much does caster affect handling?
Lack of caster has everything to do with handling. The shorter the wheelbase, the more pronounced effect.

Can I take off the front track bar and this assembly as its limiting a full turn.
You can do whatever you would like, but that thing already has enough challenges in the handling department. Removing the track bar will in all probability make it worse.

As previously stated, you need to consider what your long term goals are. If you want it to handle good on the street between ‘wheeling trips, you may want to consider starting at square one.

Additionally, it appears the pinion angle is over center in relation to the centerline of the driveshaft, meaning the pinion is pointed up already. This is exacerbated when under accel scenarios as the pinion rotates up under throttle (particularly with less than optimum leaf spring configurations).

Correcting the pinion angle is obviously what needs to occur to eliminate the vibration issue. That being said, that front u-joint is close to max working angle. If you are successful in correcting the pinion angle, the driveshaft effectively becomes “shorter” by doing so. If you yank that yoke out of the transfer case you are going to be disappointed in the result.

That thing needs a slip yoke eliminator and a CV driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Some of those pics are old and it's just what I had on my phone. Some still had the shackle lift in it. So angles have changed. Got some new front springs here and ball joints.

Those heim joints look good and adjoining bar. There basically exposed metal. I dont see any rust on it. The heims seem tight. Thought it looked newer with limited use but may be wrong.
 

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