I did a frame swap. Took 6 people to lift the tub off the frame. All the wiring stayed with the tub but the fuel pump. Pretty much just unbolt all the body mount bolts. Disconnect brake line from the prop valve, ebrake cable. And the engine wiring harness.
6 people? When i did mine just two of us lifted the tub. But the tub was completely stripped. Pretty straight forward operation. But i'd plan for at least one thing going wrong: stripped bolt, broken stud, smashed finger. What would be the fun in a completely easy job?
I needed to do the swap due to rust. Of course, the indicates major issues with the likes of "RUST". If you don't have rust, then it shouldn't be bad. If you have serious rust, get ready for a whole passle of additional items that will need to be addressed while you have it off.
Then there are the maintenance items, such as ujoints, fluids, exhaust, etc.
I lifted mine off with an engine hoist. Left the roll bars and all on. Then stripped the tub as I moved stuff over to the replacement tub. The hoist came in handy for a lot of things. But most of those involved the frame swap and not the body swap part.
Just be sure you verify where everything comes out, keep the screws separate, marked, and all that stuff.
If I were to do another, just body swap, I would take the old body off, intact, and then install the new tub. Then I would swap stuff over.
Thanks guys. i don't have tub rust or rot, I just have my passenger rear corner pushed in because it rolled out of a driveway and into a tree. The corner, tailgate and wheel well are screwed. Other than that, the tub is straight with no rust.
Post us a picture of the damaged area, it might be easier to replace the damaged section VS a tub swap, welded in new steel where it was damaged. here is a before and after of mine, we kinda did it backwards, after we freshened up the body damage we discovered the frame was a bit too far gone for repair and then did a frame swap.
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