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74K views 304 replies 68 participants last post by  daveTJ04  
#1 ·
It went from this:

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To this:

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To this:
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To this:
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To this:
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To this:
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To this:
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To this:
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The end.
 
#3 ·
More random in-between'ers.

31's, open diffs, Interlake
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The first 'big' rebuild--axle swap, suspension, SYE, steering, t-case skid, gears, etc.
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First time out on 35's
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When I decided the Rokmen skid wasn't high enough
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When I decided the hardtop made things sketchy
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Redbird 09
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Where an AntiRock and front locker are immediately noticeable
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Where shitty anti-squat properties really suck--decided to fix that
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'Standard' short arms allow for way too much WB change--decided to fix that
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Time for some corners
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Outboarded the shocks and straightened the coils
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I like rocks
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#4 ·
Really getting tired of high anti-squat....
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Around the corner to grandma's we go
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I like being low....but I want more up travel, damnit.
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It's a party in Indy
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Made a skid
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Flipped the tie rod
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Snow
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My arch-nemesis--the reason for suspension revision 1 and 2
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Some trick evap work--bye bye canister, hello simplicity and no CEL
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All clean
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Rokmen skid plate--decided to say bye bye
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Hello fuel cell
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Novak cable shifter--DO IT
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Up travel is good
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#16 ·
IndyJeepMan said:
You havent said anything about those seats man.
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Nobody asked. :)

They fawkin rock.
nastyrider17 said:
Post some pics, I would like to do something similar. Do you have a body lift/MML?
Click to expand...
Yes to both. When raising the drivetrain that high, it's a lot tougher to do without either. You can clearly see the JKS body pucks in some of the pics.

The key is to keep the drivetrain as low as possible. I use a UCF low profile transmission mount and designed the skid to further lower everything down. I gained 4.5" at the belly but only raised the transfer case 3".

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#19 ·
Not a lot going on right now, just driving it. Was supposed to wheel yesterday but a funeral changed those plans. Next on the list is addressing the front axle bracketry. I'm hacking off the stock coil buckets/control arm mounts/shock mounts. I ordered some parts from Clayton to move my LCA mounts up flush with the tube (about 2.25" measured at the center of the bolt hole). In order to correct the geometry I'll be moving up the frame mount by about the same amount. So, the front will be ultra-high clearance similar to the rear. I've already beefed up the LCA frame mounts with 2" x 3/16" weld washers and trimmed off the excess.

Here's some pics of the headlight work I did a couple months back. I've had the Hella E-code housings (best housings available) for quite a while but I replaced the 55/60 bulbs with 70/65 OSRAM bulbs and built a beef harness to take care of the voltage drop with the stock harness.

Harness
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Inline relays
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Low beam
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High beam
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#22 ·
Wheeled Mission Impossible, a private section of the Badlands in Attica, yesterday. MI is as extreme as you'll get in the midwest--huge rocks, technical trails, water crossings, sketchy 200 foot drops right next to you......if you want to make it out without breaking (only a few bypasses over the ~5 mile system), you need to be damn near bullet-proof everywhere. I didn't get many pics of my rig since I was taking pics of others' during the action. Here's a few pics, wish there were more.

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Like I said, you need to be WELL built. That's a Chevy 1 ton tie rod that folded like a tooth pick.
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Snapped stock control arm--he snapped both front uppers in one quick move.
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Was a great day. Lots of breakage, none on my rig. Not to brag, but I was the only one who didn't trailer the rig.....drove to and from. That's what I've built it to do and I'll be driving it to work tomorrow. THIS is exactly the reason I've used the parts I constantly recommend on all the forums.
 
#27 · (Edited by Moderator)
People always wonder how much a HP Dana 30 can take. I continue to be impressed with mine and my confidence in it is to the point that I no longer ever worry about it. This particular obstacle is very, very hard on the front axle and this little vid shows it pretty well. The tires are at 8 psi and it's locked. I hammered on it that hard and harder all day without a hiccup and have been for a couple years now. If you pause it, it also shows me using up every inch of available highline up travel (6").

roxfabber's Channel - YouTube

Same obstacle--JP's LT1 YJ on 40s
roxfabber's Channel - YouTube
 
#29 ·
Rear: Trussed Rubi 44 with Rubi air locker, 4.88 gears, Superior chromolly

Front: HP30, Aussie, 4.88 gears, Superior shafts with some prototype u-joints (future Superior or Savvy product), and outer axle seals. I ran stock shafts for a long time with no shaft failures and one u joint failure, a Spicer 5-760x. They hold up very well and the only reason I went to chromollys is due to the deal I got for testing the joints. I've wheeled the hardest stuff in the midwest--IN, TN, and KY--and I can't break the damn thing. It's a stout axle for 35's and I'm sticking to it.
 
#31 ·
Had a Toys for Tots event up in Attica yesterday. I told myself I'd take it easy. Yeah right.....

Only pics I have right now are of the only spot that gave (and has always given) me trouble. The whole day, the rig was point and shoot. The wall was my last obstacle off the day. I've put at least 50 attempts into this wall and have yet to get it. It's generally reserved for buggies with 100"+ wheelbase and even then, many don't make it. I was at the wall for almost an hour yesterday--I was either gonna make it or break and, well, I broke. Thankfully, it was the built-in weak spot, the rear drive shaft u joint at the diff, namely a couple caps and straps. While replacing it, I noticed my pinion was pointed way too high and then I saw the truss--I twisted the truss and bowed it outward. I don't have good pics of it but a couple welds are cracked and it's obviously bent. I still managed to drive it home, though.

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Pulling the rear axle out, cutting the truss off and starting over. Not sure what it'll be yet, but it's the last truss going on this axle.
 
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