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Old 02-27-2012, 08:47 AM   #1
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MY Low budget DD LCG build

I bought my tj 1.5 yrs


I've owned 11 4x4s and lifted most of them, so I decided to not lift my jeep and build it to crawl/flex and be able to get huge tires under it on stock springs.

New stinger bumper


D-rings, rock sliders and steering box skid


Modern classic enterprises flat fenders install





Traced the outline on my fender with a black sharpie



No turning back now.... I used a 4" electric cut off disk, kinda dusty but it worked.


Make sure to clean the metal with a good cleaner (i used 409)



flat fenders installed turn signals are mounted there for a few days til i get new lights.

new LED's installed front and rear with the proper flasher


Test fit of 33x12.5s
a bit wide for my taste.


Flex'n on snow mound with new tires and winch


Stage one finished-
Up grades include: smittybuilt f/r bumper & rock sliders, gas tank skid, MCE flat fenders, removal of rear flares, steering box skid, 33x10.5 TSL's, ARB d-rings, Cobra cb, LED fornt marker lights and rear 4" brake lights, 8000lbs winch.how it sits as of winter 2k10

poser flex'n

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Old 02-27-2012, 08:52 AM   #2
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built a new stinger/winch bumper


time to start the Hi-line front fenders



I cut the hood with a jig saw and a long blade. I'm moving the fenders 3" up


Drivers side hi-line installed for another test fit.

passenger side installed

hi-line installed poser flex again.
still need to fix the hood

Long travel front shocks

new front shock sitting next to stock front shock

getting closer

mock up of shock in place(full extended)

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Old 02-27-2012, 09:03 AM   #3
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Fender off again time to weld in the new shock towers




Hood closed


new steps


cage build


all welded in and painted cage is a thru the dash design


Rear outboard shocks
about where I'm going to cut.


Mock up of shock tower, frame still needs to be cut a bit


shock tac'd in place and cycling the suspension


Full compression bumpstop


thats plenty of room


custom lower shock tabs


another poser flex on a 32" snow mound on stock 2.5L springs


I just installed some 4.OL springs up front, it leveled the jeep out (the winch pulled the front end down) and flexes much better with the 2.5L spring I'd unseat the spring an inch at full droop with the 4,.0L springs I don't unseat anymore.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:24 PM   #4
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AWESOME man! i have MCE's and was thinking on hi lining them, looks so sweet!
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:31 PM   #5
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looks good!
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:36 PM   #6
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hopefully I'l be hi-line'n the rear fenders tomorrow after work =)
I've been itching to cut something on my jeep.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:55 PM   #7
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #8
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hopefully the first week of march i'l have my new LEDs & then I'l be building some LED reverse lights. for the first time in six month or so I'l have back up lights and be able too see.
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:59 PM   #9
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Building the reverse lights tonight, and starting to plain & brainstorm about a super stout rear bumper build, with d-rings and hitch
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:13 PM   #10
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Great job! I'm doing something similar fitting 33x10.50 on only a 1.25" BL and 3/4" front spacer with MCEs...but no where near as involved as your build.
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:37 PM   #11
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Great job! I'm doing something similar fitting 33x10.50 on only a 1.25" BL and 3/4" front spacer with MCEs...but no where near as involved as your build.
If you have the 2.5L look for some stock 4.oL springs and you won't need the spacer. the 4.oL stock springs will give you enough lift to compensate for the weight of a winch. and thanks, I try to do what I can on what very little money I have to play with. I try not to send more then $100 per part. and other then the cage and gas tank skid I've been able to keep that $100.00 per part limit. CA's will break that limit when time comes for those too, unless I make them
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:48 PM   #12
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If you have the 2.5L look for some stock 4.oL springs and you won't need the spacer. the 4.oL stock springs will give you enough lift to compensate for the weight of a winch. and thanks, I try to do what I can on what very little money I have to play with. I try not to send more then $100 per part. and other then the cage and gas tank skid I've been able to keep that $100.00 per part limit. CA's will break that limit when time comes for those too, unless I make them
Actually I have a 4.0 but the springs have 128k on them. i have the four stock springs from my old LJ with only 24K on them I am going to swap into the TJ. I figure the spacer will give me just a little more room in front. The LJ came with a hard top so chances are the spring rate difference may yield me a little lift.
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #13
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Actually I have a 4.0 but the springs have 128k on them. i have the four stock springs from my old LJ with only 24K on them I am going to swap into the TJ. I figure the spacer will give me just a little more room in front. The LJ came with a hard top so chances are the spring rate difference may yield me a little lift.
ok that sounds like it would work.... do you have a winch on your jeep?
If you do you can get some 2" light duty lift springs to level your jeep back out.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:57 AM   #14
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ok that sounds like it would work.... do you have a winch on your jeep?
If you do you can get some 2" light duty lift springs to level your jeep back out.
I don't but I will have a winch eventually. I think the 3/4" spacer should get it fairly level unless the rear springs net me more lift than I think they will.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:29 PM   #15
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I don't but I will have a winch eventually. I think the 3/4" spacer should get it fairly level unless the rear springs net me more lift than I think they will.
Gus-
I hope you can share photos when you get around to doing it. I may be going the same route unless I win the lotto and can afford the AEV highline kit.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:44 PM   #16
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Gus-
I hope you can share photos when you get around to doing it. I may be going the same route unless I win the lotto and can afford the AEV highline kit.
The AEV high line kit is tooo expensive!!! just read the forums and do it your self, its not that hard. Trust me I've done it. you just can't be afraid to cut your jeep a bit, like 3" off the hood.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:48 PM   #17
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Gus-
I hope you can share photos when you get around to doing it. I may be going the same route unless I win the lotto and can afford the AEV highline kit.
I have a build thread that links to our clubs forum. it is currently in the pics section but I'm getting it moved to the this builders section shortly. Although I haven't gotten to far yet...only had the jeep for a few weeks.

and here it is! Thanks RatherBinArizona! Our mods are the best!

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/li...ld-143726.html
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:51 AM   #18
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I have a build thread that links to our clubs forum. it is currently in the pics section but I'm getting it moved to the this builders section shortly. Although I haven't gotten to far yet...only had the jeep for a few weeks.

and here it is! Thanks RatherBinArizona! Our mods are the best!

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/li...ld-143726.html
I just linked up to it- looking good! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:44 AM   #19
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Nice build, I really like how you did the long travel shock mounts with the ford towers. If you make control arms with JJ's or similar on both ends you will be over the 100 limit. 40 per end, 10 per threaded insert and around 20 for the tube. I like your rear axle shock mounts too. I got some 4" wide 3/16" steel plate that could me made into those.

I'm planning on doing the high line with my tube fenders too. How are you going to measure for the cutout of the rear. May be a good idea to ask someone with genright hi-line fenders how much they cut off. That way later if you want fenders in the rear you can buy those to put on. Or if you cut to much out getting corner guards should cover it back up nicely. Also are you planning on covering up the gap that was made when you moved the fenders up? I think I will just try to extend the rocker guards out and box in that section.

Also do you care to give the length or model of shocks you used. Would like to see how much travel you gained doing that.
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:24 AM   #20
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I'd like to know as much about those long travels as possible. I'd like to do that when I lift but I wouldn't know the first place to start. I'm going to run OME 2.5" springs and currie arms all the way around and I feel like the shocks are really gonna hold me back on flex. Thanks for any advice
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:24 PM   #21
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Nice build, I really like how you did the long travel shock mounts with the ford towers. If you make control arms with JJ's or similar on both ends you will be over the 100 limit. 40 per end, 10 per threaded insert and around 20 for the tube. I like your rear axle shock mounts too. I got some 4" wide 3/16" steel plate that could me made into those.

I'm planning on doing the high line with my tube fenders too. How are you going to measure for the cutout of the rear. May be a good idea to ask someone with genright hi-line fenders how much they cut off. That way later if you want fenders in the rear you can buy those to put on. Or if you cut to much out getting corner guards should cover it back up nicely. Also are you planning on covering up the gap that was made when you moved the fenders up? I think I will just try to extend the rocker guards out and box in that section.

Also do you care to give the length or model of shocks you used. Would like to see how much travel you gained doing that.

I have the same amount of travel as a 4" lifted jeep now, and feel much more stable while flex'n. I have roughly 9.5" of usable travel the shocks will keep going but my stock CAs, brake lines, and stock springs won't allow them to extended any longer. I use the Rancho 9000's, I don't remember the part number but they are the 15" travel shocks.. RS99036 maybe.. I went with those shocks cause I got them NEW for $50 each, plus when the time comes I can tie the shock towers into the cage for more support and add air shocks


Quote:
I'd like to know as much about those long travels as possible. I'd like to do that when I lift but I wouldn't know the first place to start. I'm going to run OME 2.5" springs and currie arms all the way around and I feel like the shocks are really gonna hold me back on flex. Thanks for any advice
I have 2" lift springs that I've installed for a few minutes to see if I like the ride/height, I ended up take'n them back off, but even with those springs I still don't come close to over extending or over compressing the shocks. If you are going to run a lift and upgrade your shocks how I have done look into CAs, longer brake lines, limiting straps, coil spring retainers (i have on the front still need to make for the rear) Adj. front and rear trac bar(mine needed them with a 2" lift most jeeps don't) if you have any questions feel free to ask I have LOTS of pictures many more than I posted.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:48 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 97flexy

I have 2" lift springs that I've installed for a few minutes to see if I like the ride/height, I ended up take'n them back off, but even with those springs I still don't come close to over extending or over compressing the shocks. If you are going to run a lift and upgrade your shocks how I have done look into CAs, longer brake lines, limiting straps, coil spring retainers (i have on the front still need to make for the rear) Adj. front and rear trac bar(mine needed them with a 2" lift most jeeps don't) if you have any questions feel free to ask I have LOTS of pictures many more than I posted.
I plan on running currie arms all the way around and I already have an adjustable rear, just uninstalled. I was most curious about where and how you decided to place the new mounts for the shocks and if you bought or fabricated the new mounts.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:00 PM   #23
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Just for your info. There are some easy ways of extending your available axle droop. For brake lines, you could just drill and tap a hole a couple inches lower for the brake line mount on the frame. Also there are some lines that will bolt right up that are out of different vehicles. I believe mine are from a 90's Chevy truck. Front and rear are at least 5" longer.

For a cheap limiting strap use old seatbelts. Mount one side on the axle side shock mount bolt and drill and tap for a bolt on the frame.

Replacing the stock track bar with a frame side double shear design(how the axle side mounts) will improve axle droop. Mounted with a vertical stud limits down travel to some degree. Even the Currie and JKS track bars still mount this way, they give you more travel over stock but will still bind.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:02 PM   #24
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I was most curious about where and how you decided to place the new mounts for the shocks and if you bought or fabricated the new mounts.
Ford shock towers for I believe a F250. Part# e5tz-18183-a

About 25 a piece
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:51 PM   #25
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Ford shock towers for I believe a F250. Part# e5tz-18183-a

About 25 a piece
Would that b at the local auto parts store or from ford directly? Do you just notch the frame and weld them in?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:55 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by TheTJRod
Just for your info. There are some easy ways of extending your available axle droop. For brake lines, you could just drill and tap a hole a couple inches lower for the brake line mount on the frame. Also there are some lines that will bolt right up that are out of different vehicles. I believe mine are from a 90's Chevy truck. Front and rear are at least 5" longer.

For a cheap limiting strap use old seatbelts. Mount one side on the axle side shock mount bolt and drill and tap for a bolt on the frame.

Replacing the stock track bar with a frame side double shear design(how the axle side mounts) will improve axle droop. Mounted with a vertical stud limits down travel to some degree. Even the Currie and JKS track bars still mount this way, they give you more travel over stock but will still bind.
What type of track bar mounting are you talking about? I haven't heard of it
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:52 PM   #27
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Would that b at the local auto parts store or from ford directly? Do you just notch the frame and weld them in?
I don't think you will find them at local parts stores. You can get them at ford dealerships or online. Found one for 18 here. http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:02 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 97wrangler-242

What type of track bar mounting are you talking about? I haven't heard of it
Having the mount this way allows the link to rotate on the bolt instead of flexing and binding.
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:42 AM   #29
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:39 AM   #30
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Would that b at the local auto parts store or from ford directly? Do you just notch the frame and weld them in?
you need to get them thru ford I bought in pairs got both for 20 n some change include'n tax. The rear you need to notch the frame the front you need to cut the top of the shock tower off and beat them into the factory shock tower.

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