MY Low budget DD LCG build

97flexy · Feb 27, 2012

I bought my tj 1.5 yrs

I've owned 11 4x4s and lifted most of them, so I decided to not lift my jeep and build it to crawl/flex and be able to get huge tires under it on stock springs.

New stinger bumper

D-rings, rock sliders and steering box skid

Modern classic enterprises flat fenders install

Traced the outline on my fender with a black sharpie

No turning back now.... I used a 4" electric cut off disk, kinda dusty but it worked.

Make sure to clean the metal with a good cleaner (i used 409)

flat fenders installed turn signals are mounted there for a few days til i get new lights.

new LED's installed front and rear with the proper flasher

Test fit of 33x12.5s
a bit wide for my taste.

Flex'n on snow mound with new tires and winch

Stage one finished-
Up grades include: smittybuilt f/r bumper & rock sliders, gas tank skid, MCE flat fenders, removal of rear flares, steering box skid, 33x10.5 TSL's, ARB d-rings, Cobra cb, LED fornt marker lights and rear 4" brake lights, 8000lbs winch.how it sits as of winter 2k10

poser flex'n

97flexy · Feb 27, 2012

built a new stinger/winch bumper

time to start the Hi-line front fenders

I cut the hood with a jig saw and a long blade. I'm moving the fenders 3" up

Drivers side hi-line installed for another test fit.

passenger side installed

hi-line installed poser flex again.
still need to fix the hood

Long travel front shocks

new front shock sitting next to stock front shock

getting closer

mock up of shock in place(full extended)

97flexy · Feb 27, 2012

Fender off again time to weld in the new shock towers

Hood closed

new steps

cage build

all welded in and painted cage is a thru the dash design

Rear outboard shocks
about where I'm going to cut.

Mock up of shock tower, frame still needs to be cut a bit

shock tac'd in place and cycling the suspension

Full compression bumpstop

thats plenty of room

custom lower shock tabs

another poser flex on a 32" snow mound on stock 2.5L springs

I just installed some 4.OL springs up front, it leveled the jeep out (the winch pulled the front end down) and flexes much better with the 2.5L spring I'd unseat the spring an inch at full droop with the 4,.0L springs I don't unseat anymore.

deucestudios · Jun 20, 2012

Pretty sure I saw somewhere that you said this is the S&W kit.
It looks like it, but was everything notched?
How was the fit?
Is there any bracket for the winshield to attach to? It's cheap enough that this isn't a deal breaker for me...
Thanks for any info.
-Ben

97flexy said:
cage build

all welded in and painted cage is a thru the dash design

BeaverJeeper · Feb 27, 2012

AWESOME man! i have MCE's and was thinking on hi lining them, looks so sweet!

jgorm · Feb 27, 2012

looks good!

97flexy · Feb 27, 2012

hopefully I'l be hi-line'n the rear fenders tomorrow after work =)
I've been itching to cut something on my jeep.

schnutzy · Feb 27, 2012

subscribed

opcorn:

97flexy · Feb 28, 2012

hopefully the first week of march i'l have my new LEDs & then I'l be building some LED reverse lights. for the first time in six month or so I'l have back up lights and be able too see.

97flexy · Mar 3, 2012

Building the reverse lights tonight, and starting to plain & brainstorm about a super stout rear bumper build, with d-rings and hitch

oldgus · Mar 3, 2012

Great job! I'm doing something similar fitting 33x10.50 on only a 1.25" BL and 3/4" front spacer with MCEs...but no where near as involved as your build.

97flexy · Mar 3, 2012

If you have the 2.5L look for some stock 4.oL springs and you won't need the spacer. the 4.oL stock springs will give you enough lift to compensate for the weight of a winch.

and thanks, I try to do what I can on what very little money I have to play with. I try not to send more then $100 per part. and other then the cage and gas tank skid I've been able to keep that $100.00 per part limit. CA's will break that limit when time comes for those too, unless I make them

TheTJRod · Mar 5, 2012

Nice build, I really like how you did the long travel shock mounts with the ford towers. If you make control arms with JJ's or similar on both ends you will be over the 100 limit. 40 per end, 10 per threaded insert and around 20 for the tube. I like your rear axle shock mounts too. I got some 4" wide 3/16" steel plate that could me made into those.

I'm planning on doing the high line with my tube fenders too. How are you going to measure for the cutout of the rear. May be a good idea to ask someone with genright hi-line fenders how much they cut off. That way later if you want fenders in the rear you can buy those to put on. Or if you cut to much out getting corner guards should cover it back up nicely. Also are you planning on covering up the gap that was made when you moved the fenders up? I think I will just try to extend the rocker guards out and box in that section.

Also do you care to give the length or model of shocks you used. Would like to see how much travel you gained doing that.

97flexy · Mar 5, 2012

I have the same amount of travel as a 4" lifted jeep now, and feel much more stable while flex'n. I have roughly 9.5" of usable travel the shocks will keep going but my stock CAs, brake lines, and stock springs won't allow them to extended any longer. I use the Rancho 9000's, I don't remember the part number but they are the 15" travel shocks.. RS99036 maybe.. I went with those shocks cause I got them NEW for $50 each, plus when the time comes I can tie the shock towers into the cage for more support and add air shocks

I'd like to know as much about those long travels as possible. I'd like to do that when I lift but I wouldn't know the first place to start. I'm going to run OME 2.5" springs and currie arms all the way around and I feel like the shocks are really gonna hold me back on flex. Thanks for any advice

I have 2" lift springs that I've installed for a few minutes to see if I like the ride/height, I ended up take'n them back off, but even with those springs I still don't come close to over extending or over compressing the shocks. If you are going to run a lift and upgrade your shocks how I have done look into CAs, longer brake lines, limiting straps, coil spring retainers (i have on the front still need to make for the rear) Adj. front and rear trac bar(mine needed them with a 2" lift most jeeps don't) if you have any questions feel free to ask I have LOTS of pictures many more than I posted.

97wrangler-242 · Mar 5, 2012

I'd like to know as much about those long travels as possible. I'd like to do that when I lift but I wouldn't know the first place to start. I'm going to run OME 2.5" springs and currie arms all the way around and I feel like the shocks are really gonna hold me back on flex. Thanks for any advice

97wrangler-242 · Mar 5, 2012

97flexy said:
I have 2" lift springs that I've installed for a few minutes to see if I like the ride/height, I ended up take'n them back off, but even with those springs I still don't come close to over extending or over compressing the shocks. If you are going to run a lift and upgrade your shocks how I have done look into CAs, longer brake lines, limiting straps, coil spring retainers (i have on the front still need to make for the rear) Adj. front and rear trac bar(mine needed them with a 2" lift most jeeps don't) if you have any questions feel free to ask I have LOTS of pictures many more than I posted.

I plan on running currie arms all the way around and I already have an adjustable rear, just uninstalled. I was most curious about where and how you decided to place the new mounts for the shocks and if you bought or fabricated the new mounts.

TheTJRod · Mar 5, 2012

97wrangler-242 said:
I was most curious about where and how you decided to place the new mounts for the shocks and if you bought or fabricated the new mounts.

Ford shock towers for I believe a F250. Part# e5tz-18183-a

About 25 a piece

TheTJRod · Mar 5, 2012

Just for your info. There are some easy ways of extending your available axle droop. For brake lines, you could just drill and tap a hole a couple inches lower for the brake line mount on the frame. Also there are some lines that will bolt right up that are out of different vehicles. I believe mine are from a 90's Chevy truck. Front and rear are at least 5" longer.

For a cheap limiting strap use old seatbelts. Mount one side on the axle side shock mount bolt and drill and tap for a bolt on the frame.

Replacing the stock track bar with a frame side double shear design(how the axle side mounts) will improve axle droop. Mounted with a vertical stud limits down travel to some degree. Even the Currie and JKS track bars still mount this way, they give you more travel over stock but will still bind.

97wrangler-242 · Mar 6, 2012

TheTJRod said:
Ford shock towers for I believe a F250. Part# e5tz-18183-a

About 25 a piece

Would that b at the local auto parts store or from ford directly? Do you just notch the frame and weld them in?

97flexy · Mar 6, 2012

you need to get them thru ford I bought in pairs got both for 20 n some change include'n tax. The rear you need to notch the frame the front you need to cut the top of the shock tower off and beat them into the factory shock tower.

97wrangler-242 · Mar 6, 2012

TheTJRod said:
Just for your info. There are some easy ways of extending your available axle droop. For brake lines, you could just drill and tap a hole a couple inches lower for the brake line mount on the frame. Also there are some lines that will bolt right up that are out of different vehicles. I believe mine are from a 90's Chevy truck. Front and rear are at least 5" longer.

For a cheap limiting strap use old seatbelts. Mount one side on the axle side shock mount bolt and drill and tap for a bolt on the frame.

Replacing the stock track bar with a frame side double shear design(how the axle side mounts) will improve axle droop. Mounted with a vertical stud limits down travel to some degree. Even the Currie and JKS track bars still mount this way, they give you more travel over stock but will still bind.

What type of track bar mounting are you talking about? I haven't heard of it

TheTJRod · Mar 6, 2012

97wrangler-242 said:
Would that b at the local auto parts store or from ford directly? Do you just notch the frame and weld them in?

I don't think you will find them at local parts stores. You can get them at ford dealerships or online. Found one for 18 here. http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=221&rn=1103&action=show_detail

TheTJRod · Mar 6, 2012

97wrangler-242 said:
What type of track bar mounting are you talking about? I haven't heard of it

Having the mount this way allows the link to rotate on the bolt instead of flexing and binding.

ALASKA99TJ · Mar 6, 2012

subscribed

97wrangler-242 · Mar 6, 2012

TheTJRod said:
Having the mount this way allows the link to rotate on the bolt instead of flexing and binding.

I think I'm just having a difficult time seeing the axle side mount from this picture. My only access to WF is an iPhone so the pictures aren't huge

97flexy said:
you need to get them thru ford I bought in pairs got both for 20 n some change include'n tax. The rear you need to notch the frame the front you need to cut the top of the shock tower off and beat them into the factory shock tower.

Well I will subscribe and use this information when I go to do my lift. What do you tell the ford dealership when you order the shock towers? Like year make and model? And for the rear, could you get some more pictures of that? Thanks again

TheTJRod · Mar 6, 2012

Well, picture the way the track bar mounts on the frame side. It is a tie rod with the stud pointing straight up. Once the axle drops down the tie rod will bind and keep the axle from dropping any lower. If you change the mount to have it bolt running horizontal front to back, just like how it mount on the axle side. The track bar will pivot on the bolts and never bind.

When you go to the Ford dealership give them the part number. Don't give them the chance to order the wrong part. If they need one say 1980 F250 front shock tower.

If you do a search for "wrangler outboard shocks" you should get some ideas. Also there is a write-up on stu-offroad.com

This mod requires cutting the frame and welding. If your not comfortable doing it you shouldn't.

97wrangler-242 · Mar 7, 2012

TheTJRod said:
Well, picture the way the track bar mounts on the frame side. It is a tie rod with the stud pointing straight up. Once the axle drops down the tie rod will bind and keep the axle from dropping any lower. If you change the mount to have it bolt running horizontal front to back, just like how it mount on the axle side. The track bar will pivot on the bolts and never bind.

When you go to the Ford dealership give them the part number. Don't give them the chance to order the wrong part. If they need one say 1980 F250 front shock tower.

If you do a search for "wrangler outboard shocks" you should get some ideas. Also there is a write-up on stu-offroad.com

This mod requires cutting the frame and welding. If your not comfortable doing it you shouldn't.

I would b comfortable doing that except I'm not a "skilled" welder. I can lay down a pretty bead and can make stuff stick together but I wouldn't want to weld up my own cage and put my self and 3 of my best friends lives on those welds haha. I have the mechanical know-how and I think this is something I will do a Lot more research on and plan on doing. Thank you for all the info

97flexy · Mar 7, 2012

just give the ford dealer the part number if you give them the part number you don't need a model/year.

97flexy · Apr 25, 2012

here is what we just built and tested.

both jeeps RTI you tube video.m4v - YouTube

After the wedding I will be tarring the jeep apart.
It will be getting a MML, TT, Lopro trans mount, D44 with locking hubs and a locker up front, SYE kit, new rear drive shaft, adjustable arms, new clutch, new radiator, new input shaft bearing and if I got any money left an 8.8 out back

lovemachine · Apr 26, 2012

Where/how did you get your rear lights like that? It looks BA.

97flexy · May 4, 2012

Harbor freight for $10 each and a 4" hole saw if you want slow blinkers you need a new flasher, depending on what flasher you have (4pin or 5pin) depends what flasher you need. my '97 uses a 4 pin, my friends 99 uses a 5 pin.

p.s. they are super bright!!, the only down fall is no reverse lights, but if you don't have tint you can just tap the brake pedal and that provides plenty of light.

97flexy · May 22, 2012

I just started my next jeep build, on my list will be, new front custom long arms, SYE, D44, battery relocation, install third seat, TT, clutch, and input bearing(pilot bearing), and radiator. Hopefully will be done in a month, We welded on two lower ballistic joint mounts on the frame, pulled the dshafts off the rear ends, and got most of the skid plate off(the nutserts are stripping in the frame). I'l continue to keep yal updated and I'l take pictures along the way.

MY Low budget DD LCG build

Our Vendors

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities