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DIY Hard Top Painting

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45K views 36 replies 18 participants last post by  MarkWhite  
#1 ·
I just bought a used hard top for my TJ. It is in good condition, but I want to change it from beige to black to match the accents on the Jeep.

There are many threads here on this topic, and I have read a lot of them…but there is so much info and varying opinions for what is best to use, that I just wanted to see if you all could help me break it down a little. My plan is to scotchbrite/sand down and clean the top thoroughly. My question is, for DIY guy whose only real painting experience is painting the fender flares with Krylon Fusion, what really would be the best next steps (primer?) and type of paint for me to use?

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
When painting prep is key for a good looking job. Spend a lot of time sanding and then clean it with acetone and do not touch it after that. The oils from your fingers can cause the paint to not adhere properly. There really isn't a need for primer if you use scotch Brite and rough up the surface. As far as type of paint I would go with some type of plastic formulated paint but I think the top is fiberglass. Just my two cents.
 
#6 ·
Take it outside and wash it with some comet on a red scotch brite pad. Rinse well. Blow dry being sure to get in behind the window seals. Mask up windows, blow off. Wipe down with wax&grease remover. Dont use acetone, its flash point is to quick and wont allow the contaminants to rise to the surface so you can wipe them off. After wipe down, tack it off then proceed with top coat. SEM is the best trim paint on the market. Imho, id spray it with a paint gun.
 
#7 ·
I just repainted mine. Here is what i did:

1. sanded it with a hand sander (i think i used 200 grit?)
2. wash it off and let it dry (I left it alone for a week due to time constraints). I also used an air compressor before washing it to get all the loose crap off of it.
3. tape off windows
4. Primer (i used 2 cans of rustoleum flat black). after sanding, the top will soak up alot of the primer, hence the two cans of "double coverage".
5. Paint (I used Krylon Fusion Satin Black). I bought six cans and used them all. it took about one can per coat. I also let each coat dry for about 30 minutes. I also bought the rustoleum sprayer thing you clip on the rattle can. this thing is AWESOME!
6. Clear-Coat (this is optional. I didn't do it, as i was concerned about chalking). Plus, if it gets scrached, then i would have to sand it down THEN re-paint as opposed to just washing it and spraying it again.

Just have fun with it. I did my flares back in July and they still look great, so I am hoping the top won't fade too quickly.

I did get some slight streaking on the top of the hardtop because my first coat was a little heavy. unless you are looking for it, you cant really tell its there.

If you are a novice at painting, watch some videos on proper technique to save you some stress on streaks and runs.

Good luck!!!
 
#13 ·
If I go with the scotch-brite to scuff it up and then clean, I would think that the original paint surface would still be there for the most part. At that point would I still want to spray on a primer?

My thought was if I took my time and carefully sanded down to the bare surface, then I would definitely start with a primer. But I'm not sure if I need primer if just using scotch-brite.
 
#15 ·
I have been wanting to paint my hardtop black as well. I have a green jeep with black accents and a tan top. I recently bought a soft top via craigslist and am putting it on this weekend. So I will have some time to work on the hardtop and take my time with it. I have been on the fence as well if I wanted to use a spray paint or bedliner. I also like the textured look, but those pics of the SEM paint look pretty nice too. Subscribing to see other opinions and what OP ends up doing.
 
#25 ·
Save yourself a lot of work down the road. Take it in and have a ryno-line or truck liner sprayed on it. Also, pay the extra for the clear coat. It will look great, and you will never worry about it again!!

Also, when your ready to sell it, it will be worth more.

You will never be able to scratch it. You can even look into doing that yourself, but its worth having a shop do it.
 
#27 ·
Save yourself a lot of work down the road. Take it in and have a ryno-line or truck liner sprayed on it. Also, pay the extra for the clear coat. It will look great, and you will never worry about it again!!

Also, when your ready to sell it, it will be worth more.

You will never be able to scratch it. You can even look into doing that yourself, but its worth having a shop do it.

Thanks for the suggestion but I don't care for that kind of finish.
 
#29 ·
Finally got around to painting the hard top from beige to black over the last two weekends. (I wanted to get it done before the weather turned too cold) The first weekend I used Krylon Fusion satin black on the inside (5 coats), and the following weekend I did the exterior in black Rustoleum rattle can bedliner (6 coats). I am very happy with the results, and thank you to all here who offered tips and advice.

I will post some pic's here in the next day or so....
 
#32 ·
Here a couple of pic's of the before and final exterior painted with Rustoleum Bedliner. I also painted the inside from white to black with Krylon Fusion satin, but realized I didn't take any photo's of that. If anyone is interested in seeing pictures of the inside just let me know and I'll post some here.
 

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#34 ·
If you go to O'Reilly's Auto Parts...
You can give them the year of your Jeep Like I did.
They will make you a Batch to match factory Paint and show you the exact color on a chart. They charge 22 dollars for a Larger than normal can of Spray applied Paint matching the manufacturers paint code.
I just ordered four cans of Red Rock Crystal Pearl so I can do the outside of my Used top Im buying when I return home in a couple of weeks.
I will do the interior in Gloss Black or Grey depends I may try to match interior color, but I know Im going Red rock exterior which is what my jeep is.
Figure if I dont like it I can always go Black and call it a day...
 
#36 ·
It's all about the prep. Duplicolor BedArmor ftw.
 
#37 ·
Change of plans for me...

I decided Im sticking to Factory Red Rock Crystal Pearl...
Exterior and Interior. Not a big fan of WHITE for all interiors, they paint the door interiors...

So I just ordered three more cans of the color match from O'Reilly's i mentioned above.

I also contacted the Tractor supply company about providing sound/insulation roll for I think 168 plus 20 for adhesion spray...

First, I will make some cardboard cut outs/ Templates for Insulation cut from roll to match interior contours...

Second, I will flip top upside down so I can access the interior of the roof.
I will mask off the windows and spray the interior where the Insulation will not be present with a slight overlap into the areas that will be insulated.

Next I will install the insulation, then flip top over after about five hours of drying time.

On the exterior coat there are a couple of options.
If you want a Textured look you can use the Trunk/underlining spray and make a couple of passes...

Then coat with top coat of color of choice. This should provide a slight textured look, with your color if different than black.

As far as clear coat. If you are off roading a lot you may not want to do that so you can simply spray touch up...

However, if it were me, I would spend the extra time with clear coat and sand lightly for touch ups when applying a top coat then re clear coat.
Even if used for off road. You can sand lightly in a small area, paint then make sure to go larger with clear and you will prevent Fad a lot plus dulling from normal weather....

These are only my opinions. I am not a professional.
But Lets see how well mine tunrs out in three weeks from now when I return home to do my interior in Red Rock and insulate, then complete the outside in Red Rock also...
I figure Ill get on of the following out of my attempt.
:puke::atomic::awesome:

The last foot note I can add,
Go with more coats rather than just enough...
When you look at spray paint its the same as any other paint, the more coats the deeper the shine. I knew a guy back in high school used 12 cans of Gloss Black on a New TA he pulled decals off the bottom of his ground effects, he used 12 cans and you could not tell from the factory at all...you had to look very close to even see a tape line. He then wet sanded and clear coated and it totally blended well.

When you look at a spray job, usually you will see Blotching and dull / Shinny areas...
Add more paint a couple of more coats will make a huge difference...
See for your self. Also remember light coats cross hatching makes for best effects.
12-14 inches back and helps prevents runs...