What is the Difference between a body lift and a Suspension lift? Is one better for offroading?
Blazin420
Suspension lifts enable steeper ascent, descent and breakover angles, higher ground clearance, and helps accommodate larger wheels and tires A body lift is a common and affordable method to run larger tires on a vehicle. It involves installing a Puck where the body mounts to the Chassis frame in order to increase the clearance between tires and the body. This is often used to allow the placement of a larger engine. A suspension lift is better for offroad, a small amount of body lift like an inch or so wont hurt... some jeep people might differ because of saftey. Linky to some lift reviews.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/yj-lift-reviews-25156.html
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/yj-lift-reviews-25156.html
the only body lift IMHO that is acceptable is the 1" and that is just for that extra oomph on the clearance side. i hate to see any vehicle with a 3" body lift and you can see under the tub of the vehicle jeep or truck i dont care, its a cop-out and serves no USEFUL purpose.
suspension is more costly but the reason is because it replaces alot of the parts under your jeep to bring it up off the ground. suspension lifts are the correct way to go and much more functional.
when you install a body lift your left with the exact same articulation and clearance underneath that you had in the first place. only good thing is you can get bigger tires to fit under the fender.
a combination of the two can be a good use of a budjet, exalmple a 2.5" suspension and a 1" body will alow for 33-35" tires with some good articulation
suspension is more costly but the reason is because it replaces alot of the parts under your jeep to bring it up off the ground. suspension lifts are the correct way to go and much more functional.
when you install a body lift your left with the exact same articulation and clearance underneath that you had in the first place. only good thing is you can get bigger tires to fit under the fender.
a combination of the two can be a good use of a budjet, exalmple a 2.5" suspension and a 1" body will alow for 33-35" tires with some good articulation
1.25 is the biggest BL i would get, and like stated above IMO its just to get that extra oooomph of lift for better looks or clearence
I was looking at Rusty's offroad website and they have 4 inch suspension lift for $500 bucks... Why is it so cheap? Ive looked at other lifts and they are around $1500.
Well like i said i have a 3" body lift. I would like to take 2'' BL off and add a 2'' or 3'' suspension lift. How much do you think it would cost to take off the 2'' and add the suspension lift, just so i know what i'm looking at?
yea i was also looking at that.. My Choices are black diamond 3.5", Rough Country 4", or Rusty's Offroad 4" its a very hard choice. Any input would be great!
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Your not the only one deciding on which suspension lift to buy haha but i just bought a Rough Country 4" suspension lift for about $500. i hope its good. from what i see and hear its good
Keep in mind when going for a 4'' lift, the lift is probably NOT the only thing you will need. That much lift severly messes with driveshaft angles. a CV drive shaft and an SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) could well be very near in your future if you go with a 4'' lift. To not will in all likely hood make you go through u-joints like crazy. I'm not trying to discourage, I say go for it if you've got the monetary means, but I'm just trying to make sure you are aware. Also, it often requires a transfer case drop and, correct me if i'm wrong, steering modifications...but some kits include those already.
t case drop yes but the only steering mod needed is a pit man arm witch the kit includes and some run the rc 4 inch lift and a t case drop with no problems
The universal joints that connect the drive shaft to the axle and transfer case allow the drive shaft to be angled since your axle is always lower than the trans case. Once you start raising the frame away from the axle that drive shaft angle increases, and at a certain angle or stress the u-joints will break (hopefully only those) or a yoke could snap or the drive shaft it self. CV drive shafts have 2 u-joints on one end so it allows you to increase that drive line angle more than the stock shaft and still be safe
Does that make any sense? I'm really tired :rofl:
Does that make any sense? I'm really tired :rofl:
Yea i understand now haha so your saying that if i buy a cv driveshaft it should fix most of my problems?
Having only a CV drive shaft will help but if your going to go with it why not get the SYE too?
what if i get a 3" suspension lift? will i have to worry about the CV driveshaft and what nots?
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