I just installed the factory mopar aux switches and had dealer flash the computer so they are recognized. My question is can I put 6 three inch cubes lighting on one mopar aux switch? I am looking at the rigid 3inch pods. thanks in advance!!!
aux light install using mopar aux switches (6 lights, 1 switch)
solarissf
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I just installed the factory mopar aux switches and had dealer flash the computer so they are recognized. My question is can I put 6 three inch cubes lighting on one mopar aux switch? I am looking at the rigid 3inch pods. thanks in advance!!!
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Just check the amp ratings for which wire to connect to. 15 or higher 40 amp line. LEDs are such a low amp draw that I imaging it will work fine on a 15 amp wire. And for serious high amp draws like a winch the switch will only control a relay anyways
the lights i am looking at draw 1.5 amps each. so 1.5 x 6 = 9. is the math that simple? so I should be fine on either switch?
so to take this a step further, now I would like to power 8 lights on one switch... total amps around 17 amps. I was speaking to an electrician and he said if I put 17amps on the 40amp switch then it will work... but in the case of an overload, the fuse will never blow and it will create some type of damage. thoughts on that???
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Certainly possible, but if you are really worried about that then link the aux switch to a relay and add an appropriate fuse to the inline light wires
A relay is a kind of switch and in your car sits between the switch you toggle and whatever you are powering - basically relieves the switch you toggle from having to handle high amounts of power. You flick the switch (low power) and the relay then engages (with larger amounts of power). The fuse just protects the circuit (and things in the circuit) from being over powered and damaged.
You can also think of a relay as a door.
There is a wire from the switch that connects to the "door handle" on the relay. When the switch on, it will open the door, when it is off, it will close the door.
On one side of the door is the "draw", in this case your lights. You lights will connect to a post on the relay that is one "side of the door"
On the other side of the door is the "supply". This is the power supply, or our battery.
When the door is open, your draw (lights) will get power direct from the source (battery) through the relay. As your draw increases, you need to increase the size of your wiring and with DC current, the longer run of wire will also require a larger wire. So installing a relay allows you to run a small wire from inside the vehicle into the engine compartment to the relay and then the wiring from the batter to the relay and relay to lighting can be smaller as well since it doesn't have to carry the distance to the lighting.
Below is a chart that I reference both personally and professionally to help select proper wire size. As you will see, if you go from 9 amps to 17 amps, your wire size will have to increase for proper load. You can see that it will also need to increase for length. For LED lighting, you should be safe to work in the 10%, Non-Critical range
Here is a link to a page on selecting wire sizing for DC current, screenshot of chart below
www.bluesea.com
![4418262]( "4418262")
And here is a link to a good article and diagram that explains how to wire off-road lights through a relay
www.extremelights.co.za
Here is a diagram from that article. You can use a 5 pin relay as well, you will just not use the pin on location 87a that is in the center (not found on a 4 pin relay)
![4418263]( "4418263")
There is a wire from the switch that connects to the "door handle" on the relay. When the switch on, it will open the door, when it is off, it will close the door.
On one side of the door is the "draw", in this case your lights. You lights will connect to a post on the relay that is one "side of the door"
On the other side of the door is the "supply". This is the power supply, or our battery.
When the door is open, your draw (lights) will get power direct from the source (battery) through the relay. As your draw increases, you need to increase the size of your wiring and with DC current, the longer run of wire will also require a larger wire. So installing a relay allows you to run a small wire from inside the vehicle into the engine compartment to the relay and then the wiring from the batter to the relay and relay to lighting can be smaller as well since it doesn't have to carry the distance to the lighting.
Below is a chart that I reference both personally and professionally to help select proper wire size. As you will see, if you go from 9 amps to 17 amps, your wire size will have to increase for proper load. You can see that it will also need to increase for length. For LED lighting, you should be safe to work in the 10%, Non-Critical range
Here is a link to a page on selecting wire sizing for DC current, screenshot of chart below
Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
www.bluesea.com
And here is a link to a good article and diagram that explains how to wire off-road lights through a relay
How to Wire a Relay for Off-Road LED Lights
We frequently get asked “should I install a relay with the lights?” The answer is YES! We also suggest adding a fuse. It is good practise and should not be ignored. Here are two diagrams showing you how to connect them using a relay. You will have to adjust the current ratings for the light...
www.extremelights.co.za
Here is a diagram from that article. You can use a 5 pin relay as well, you will just not use the pin on location 87a that is in the center (not found on a 4 pin relay)
so the mopar aux package that I have... doesn't that have a relay in it already?You can also think of a relay as a door.
There is a wire from the switch that connects to the "door handle" on the relay. When the switch on, it will open the door, when it is off, it will close the door.
On one side of the door is the "draw", in this case your lights. You lights will connect to a post on the relay that is one "side of the door"
On the other side of the door is the "supply". This is the power supply, or our battery.
When the door is open, your draw (lights) will get power direct from the source (battery) through the relay. As your draw increases, you need to increase the size of your wiring and with DC current, the longer run of wire will also require a larger wire. So installing a relay allows you to run a small wire from inside the vehicle into the engine compartment to the relay and then the wiring from the batter to the relay and relay to lighting can be smaller as well since it doesn't have to carry the distance to the lighting.
Below is a chart that I reference both personally and professionally to help select proper wire size. As you will see, if you go from 9 amps to 17 amps, your wire size will have to increase for proper load. You can see that it will also need to increase for length. For LED lighting, you should be safe to work in the 10%, Non-Critical range
Here is a link to a page on selecting wire sizing for DC current, screenshot of chart below
Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
View attachment 4418262
And here is a link to a good article and diagram that explains how to wire off-road lights through a relay
How to Wire a Relay for Off-Road LED Lights
We frequently get asked “should I install a relay with the lights?” The answer is YES! We also suggest adding a fuse. It is good practise and should not be ignored. Here are two diagrams showing you how to connect them using a relay. You will have to adjust the current ratings for the light...
Here is a diagram from that article. You can use a 5 pin relay as well, you will just not use the pin on location 87a that is in the center (not found on a 4 pin relay)
View attachment 4418263
With a quick search, I found an install video on your Aux Package:
This might be a good watch for you so that you can figure out your light install. Yes, it does appear that there is a relay bank, assuming a relay for each switch that is on the dash. I didn't watch the entire video, but the Extreme Terrain vids are usually pretty good.
yep... take a look at this link. it def has fuses in line
Mopar Auxiliary Switch Bank for 18-24 Jeep Wrangler JL & Gladiator JT
Rugged Durability: Built with high-quality materials, the MOPAR AUX Switch Bank Kit is designed to withstand daily use and tough conditions, ensuring long-lasting reliability.
yep... I saw that video. the confusion on my end is when I wire up 8 lights to 1 switch. my electrician was saying that drawing 17amps on a 40amp line will never trip fuse. so he suggested I put a 20amp fuse on that specific line for safety.
yes, that makes perfect sense. You always want to protect your line with a appropriate sized fuse for the load. If there is a fuse already in line, you can simply change that out to a 20 AMP fuse. If not, simply source an in-line fuse holder and add that in the line between the harness and your light connections.
thanks... so I don't need to worry about a relay? Just put this 20amp fuse inline and good to go? Its amazing that Jeep didn't say anything about this... they just said... "yea, it'll work anywhere". I just I should have specified, "safely?"
It appears that there are already relays in the kit, so you don't need to worry about that. The relays are in a box that is mounted under the hood. It looks like each of the lines already has a fuse in place.
In the photo below, your relay bank is in the black enclosure, that I have put a blue box around. The fuses for each line are in the fittings with the red circles. Simply figure out what line you are using, open up that fuse holder and remove what is in there and install a 20 amp fuse to protect your lights.
Hopefully the fuse holders are labeled for you, if not it can be challenging. IT appears that the inline fuse holders are all red, so they will not color coordinate to the Aux wiring color. There are a couple of ways that you can test it.
1: Select one of the fuse holders and start pulling back the insulating wrap. once you get far enough you will see that the red from the fuse holder connects up to one of the colors. Be sure to remove the wrap toward the lines you are connecting to and not back towards the body. Although they most likely use the same color all the way through, they may not.
2: Determine what line you want to use for wiring your lights (Aux 1, 2, 3, or 4). Then remove the protective cover on the end of the wire. Wire up one of your lights, positive to that lead and the ground to either the battery post or to the body ground (along the side, where there are other things, including the harness are grounded to). Press the switch for the Aux position and your light should power on. No start removing the fuses 1 by 1. Once you remove a fuse and your light goes off, that is the line that coordinates to that fuse holder
3: If you have a multimeter, you can set it to test the continuity. Simply remove the fuse and then pin the fuse holder you will have to test each side, there is no way to for sure know which side of the fuse is in and which is out, and the end of the wire until it makes a beeping noise to let you know that that is the same line.
1: Select one of the fuse holders and start pulling back the insulating wrap. once you get far enough you will see that the red from the fuse holder connects up to one of the colors. Be sure to remove the wrap toward the lines you are connecting to and not back towards the body. Although they most likely use the same color all the way through, they may not.
2: Determine what line you want to use for wiring your lights (Aux 1, 2, 3, or 4). Then remove the protective cover on the end of the wire. Wire up one of your lights, positive to that lead and the ground to either the battery post or to the body ground (along the side, where there are other things, including the harness are grounded to). Press the switch for the Aux position and your light should power on. No start removing the fuses 1 by 1. Once you remove a fuse and your light goes off, that is the line that coordinates to that fuse holder
3: If you have a multimeter, you can set it to test the continuity. Simply remove the fuse and then pin the fuse holder you will have to test each side, there is no way to for sure know which side of the fuse is in and which is out, and the end of the wire until it makes a beeping noise to let you know that that is the same line.
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