[vanhalo]

They are 68191356AA, also available at Mopar Parts Giant.

Do you remember which oil inlet o-ring seal you used with the Dorman?

 

[SC Jeep Neewbie]

Zero oil leaks prior to me overtightening and breaking the filter cap. Used the seals that came with the aftermarket part and followed the torque sequence to a t and zero leaks.

 

[SC Jeep Neewbie]

From what I can gather there are two primary reasons for the failures, first there was apparently a large run of units where the permanent plastic plugs placed in the unit during manufacture could leak, and it seems like the potential for this fault might certainly be exacerbated by over-torquing the housing. In this case case the over-torque would only be a contributing cause rather than the actual cause, but still... don't over-torque the cap . This was likely fixed at some point down the line, perhaps why the problem seems more prevalent in early Pentastars than later. The other primary cause is simply mounting surface gasket failure (this has been an issue in more than the Pentastar, for instance the Mercedes 3.0L V6 diesel engine with a similar 'in the V' oil/water cooler arrangement had a similar problem, and that was an even worse tear-down to fix.) Anyway if that failure is was/is in your future there's probably not much you can do about it but have spare parts on hand.

But it's important to remember that the 15 millionth 3.6 Pentastar has now rolled off the line and with those kind of numbers even a 2% failure rate is 300,000 vehicles (and it seems every one is reported on the Internet.) That would make the number of failed oil coolers larger than the entire production run of many other engines, even if the chance of an individual failure might be low. Basically, drive the vehicle, and like every other potential failure if it happens it happens.

I'm curious where you got the 2% failure rate figure. I'm not questioning you personally but that is a statistically BIG number.....For context, six sigma targets (in a very ambitious way I will admit) between 1 and 3.5 failures per 1 million units/iterations. That's about a .0003 % rate. I hope that helps illustrate why the 2% rate is just astronomical

 

[PJ-1995]

The Dorman came with only one O ring for the nipple fitting. The part number I gave you has the correct set of gaskets, including the O ring for the nipple for 2014-2021. My new OEM OFA has both O rings as you picture depicts.

 

[roaniecowpony]

No way we'll ever know the failure rate. But suffice to say, many an owner of the pentastar have experienced it, if they owned it long enough.

 

[vanhalo]

The Dorman came with only one O ring for the nipple fitting. The part number I gave you has the correct set of gaskets, including the O ring for the nipple for 2014-2021. My new OEM OFA has both O rings as you picture depicts.

I have no idea which oil inlet oring is appropriate for the Dorman.
i am assuming the black oring in part number 68191356AA is the 23mm OD oring which is the same size that comes with the FelPro kit.

that is the wrong oring for the OEM OFA. They want us to use the 22.3 mm OD (red) for the OEM OFA.

not sure about the Dorman OFA.

 

[PJ-1995]

I'm still trying to get an answer to my question in post 3398: Has anyone used any RTV around the gaskets between the OFA and the block? If so what type was used? Thanks.

 

[smiller1]

I'm curious where you got the 2% failure rate figure. I'm not questioning you personally but that is a statistically BIG number.....For context, six sigma targets (in a very ambitious way I will admit) between 1 and 3.5 failures per 1 million units/iterations. That's about a .0003 % rate. I hope that helps illustrate why the 2% rate is just astronomical

No basis, I was just picking a number as an example, and yes, even a 2% rate is enormously high. Only trying to counter the common 'they all fail' statement... they don't all fail, only a minutely small percentage does. Not that that fact would make anyone feel better when halfway into the job...

 

[roaniecowpony]

No basis, I was just picking a number as an example, and yes, even a 2% rate is enormously high. Only trying to counter the common 'they all fail' statement... they don't all fail, only a minutely small percentage does. Not that that fact would make anyone feel better when halfway into the job...

Agree that "they all" don't fail. It's a fraction of the population. However, consider that FCA has continued to make changes to this part, even for the out of production versions, up until very recently. So, they have determined the failure rate is unacceptable to their standards.

 

[SC Jeep Neewbie]

I'm still trying to get an answer to my question in post 3398: Has anyone used any RTV around the gaskets between the OFA and the block? If so what type was used? Thanks.

When I was researching how to do this job I came across a few videos/write-ups either on this or other forums and the general internet that either alluded to or briefly spoke about RTV but nothing specific. I couldn't imagine doing this since I had no reason to believe it would leak since mine never leaked prior to cracking it. My choice, if I had to do it would be high temp red all day long....My opinion,

 

[Yippykyae]

Since my question is related to the oil cooler assembly, I thought I would ask my question here versus a new thread. I am helping my son replace/remove the oil cooler assembly for the 3rd time in his 2014 Willys (124k miles). Replaced the original with the Dorman and the gaskets that came with it. Within a couple of months same oil leak issue. Bought OEM gaskets from the dealer and pulled out and replaced the gaskets (bottom only) reinstalled and leaking again. Assumption, Dorman bottom surface not milled properly. Bought new OEM oil cooler assembly (with the new gaskets), and OEM coolant and oil temp sensors and the coolant hose to same. The question I have, has anyone used any RTV around the gaskets between the assembly and the block? If so what type was used? I don't want to do this again! Thanks in advance.

BTW I have 2015 WK2 with 110k miles and no issues with the oil cooler leaking, I have changed the oil in both of these vehicles since they were new, so no over tightening the oil filter cap.

Yes
RTV Black

 

[roaniecowpony]

Yes
RTV Black

It will be great if that eliminates the leak that seems to be chronic in these engines. Keep us posted.

 

[vanhalo]

Some have used RTV to hold the seals in place but most folks are not having issues with the OEM or Dorman replacement using the correct seals.

most issues come from using the wrong seals.

you are not the first to report issues with the Dorman seals but I’m surprised the OEM seals failed on the bottom.

 

[Yippykyae]

It will be great if that eliminates the leak that seems to be chronic in these engines. Keep us posted.

I am not the only one who has done it. On the seals and thin on the surfaces between the two plates.

 

[DRight]

Moderator Notes: (TLDR )

This is a known issue affecting thousands of 2012+ JKs, most notably in extreme cold conditions.
Failures range from:

• Cracked housings
• Leaking O rings
• Sensor failure

Solution requires replacing the complete housing, it's also recommended to replace sensors while you're in there.

Important notes:

• 2012 & 2013 are the original style
• 2014, 2015 & 2016 have an updated style including a filter change
• 2017 & 2018 had a change in the Oil Pressure Sending Unit and will be a different part number
• Dorman makes an aluminum alternative (926-876)

Now back to the original thread:

I have a 2014 JKUR. I noticed a big puddle of engine oil in the garage last weekend, and looking under the Jeep, the oil was dripping off the clutch cover, so I suspected it was the rear main seal. After thinking about it, I thought it was odd that the clutch wasn't chattering like I expected it would with a rear main issue, so I was a little skeptical that it was actually that. I just received a call from the dealer, and they said it was a cracked oil cooler housing.

Googling around, there are a bunch of people who have experienced this already, and all seem to be 2014s, including at least one Cherokee KL (the new one) with the 3.2. So, I looked around and yes, the 3.2L uses the same oil filter/cooler assembly as the 3.6L.

The 2014 3.6L oil filter/housing/cooler appear to be NEW parts from 2013 and earlier. They probably re-engineered these so they would be common between the 3.2L and 3.6L, saving money.

So, ladies and gentlemen, we have a Fiat/Jeep/Chrysler clusterfork in motion.

This is not a trivial issue. While mine cracked and wasn't leaking a ton, others apparently have blown out. If this happens on a trail 20 miles from town, you are going to be screwed.
We need a survey sticky thread on this issue. How do we do that?:atomic:


View attachment 4567476

2016 JKU Rubicon, 80K miles, oil cooler failed, oil intruded cooling system, ginormous pain in the rear to clean out. New Dorman oil cooler was easy for me to install with tools and experience, changed all sending units in the V at the same time. AT 60K miles I replaced one valve lifter, which is when I learned how to take the top of the engine apart. Not happy with the 3.6-liter Pentastar V6, never again. Next failure changing out to V8 power.

 

[Texas_TJ]

New to me Jeep with 115k miles. How much oil are we immediately concerned about? Mine doesn’t seem to be leaking badly, but it’s definitely leaking. I’ll likely go with the newest Mopar variant due to all the gasket concerns. I’ll replace the two sensors, spark plugs, pcv, and plenum gaskets with it.

 

[vanhalo]

New to me Jeep with 115k miles. How much oil are we immediately concerned about? Mine doesn’t seem to be leaking badly, but it’s definitely leaking. I’ll likely go with the newest Mopar variant due to all the gasket concerns. I’ll replace the two sensors, spark plugs, pcv, and plenum gaskets with it.

View attachment 4610297
View attachment 4610296

time to change it.
good that you caught it early.
go with OEM.
i wouldn’t fool with the Dorman until they fix the oil cooler side seal membranes
.

 

[Texas_TJ]

I put 2016 JKU into the Mopar site and it's recommending 68596317AB , does that sound right for the most updated one?

 

[vanhalo]

I put 2016 JKU into the Mopar site and it's recommending 68596317AB , does that sound right for the most updated one?

yes that is the updated part number.

 

[rubicon-ray]

I'm going to chime in here...I began seeing these issues on the 3.6L engines on forums a couple years ago. At that time my JKU Rubicon had around 95K miles, and very well maintained. I've always liked to be ahead of the potential problem so I replace the oil cooler with the Dorman all aluminum housing. While I had it apart we replaced plugs, hoses, water pump and all. The expense is minimal for me versus the PIA encountered when an unexpected woopsie happens. These maintenance items will hopefully allow many more miles of trouble free driving.