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Codes P06DA & P06DE, oil pump control solenoid

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40K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  Gunmetal Kong  
#1 ·
I don't know if anyone can help me...

Been getting these two codes solid for a few days. I am pretty sure it's the oil control solenoid failed in the oil pump, pump is stuck in high pressure mode. I'm just wondering if anybody has a pin diagram for the PCM, specifically the C2 connector. Before tearing into the bottom half of the engine I would like to check the wiring but I don't know what's what other than the oil control solenoid harness itself on the side of the block.

Here is the steps I am supposed to take before just replacing the solenoid or oil pump. It is a 2014 model.

https://www.obd2-code.com/2017/04/dtc-p06da-engine-oil-pressure-control-circuit.html

Thanks
 
#2 ·
I had the P06DD code and ended up replacing the pump. There's an oil pressure sensor switch by the back oil cooler housing towards the firewall. I know people have replaced that and if that doesn't clear than more than likely you'll have to replace the pump.
 
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#3 ·
I read a ton of people have the DD code and it was the solenoid in the pump, but I don't have that code. However the pressure switch under the intake usually is a P0520 code, and I don't have that. Also typically when that fails the oil pressure reading on the dash is pegged, and mine still fluctuates like normal, but is definitely higher than normal. I also had the pressure switch replaced under warranty a few years ago, but that doesn't mean much at this point. The pump defaults to high pressure mode when the solenoid is not working at all which is why I am concerned this may be wiring and not the actual solenoid, I'm just having a hard time figuring out how to confirm that. Obviously I don't want to spend half a Saturday doing the pump for no reason.
 
#4 ·
I found a youtube vid that might help you out or not.
Going back to the solenoid wiring you can trace those wires coming out of the block but if the damage is right off the solenoid you won't be able to check that length of wire without pulling the upper oil pan off.
 
#5 ·
So to anyone reading this in the future, I’m 95% confident changing the solenoid seems to have fixed it. I cleared the code, then took it for about a 20 min drive and watching the oil pressure readings, both stages are working and it’s easy to make it go back and forth depending on your right foot.

It is a pretty decent sized job, I have a skid plate and an auto with the trans lines of course which makes it a little worse. Breaking the seal on the upper pan is an absolute bear, I was really close to giving up and gave it one more attempt from up top with a big bar and smacking it with a dead blow, which just got the corner free and then I could work my way around with a putty knife. Then cleaning both mating surfaces takes a while. Other than that it’s just turning bolts.
 
#6 ·
I hear you on the upper pan. I broke mine loose the same you did from the top. Glad it worked out for you.