I wrapped the NAV-TV module with a little padding to prevent rattling noises. Run the harness around the back side and under the dash frame so it does not interfere with sliding the headunit back in:

The NAV-TV A/V cable is built, you choose what options you plan to use. I inserted the wires for the backup camera and video out (future rear LCDs). This is the connector that plugged into the back of my 430N's unused connector. After a little study, the instructions explain which pins are used (white is + and black is - )

Using a small light, you can see there is an opening for the yellow video RCA cable to run. I chose to go down the passenger side, and under the passenger seat and back under the carpet near the doors:

Remove the rear bumper cover by removing the two 16mm bolts near the fenders and two bolts on the upper bracket at the back. The cover is all plastic. I chose to remove the Sahara silver insert and cut the camera hole in just the black bumper, just in case I wanted to relocate the camera in the future. I could reinstall the silver cover and not have a hole.

Measure for center, around 21 3/4" from either edge and then I used 2" tape to help mark the horizontal and vertical center on the bumper shape. Drill the hole there.

The inside portion of the bumper is where you need to trim plenty, the camera will come back to the angled edge. I used the unibit to cut a couple holes and make enough room.

Partially insert the camera, fish the wires back through. I used the grommet under the storage tray. There is a heat shield above the muffler. I used a piece of wire loom to help protect the wire from the camera into the Jeep:

 

Once inside the Jeep, if you have the subwoofer option, remove the Torx 30 bolts with the tie down hooks, there is a 10mm bolt at the inside top, near the roll bar.

The grommet in the upper corner provides access to the tail-light wiring.

Two phillips head screws hold the tail light on:

The white with green wire (2013 JKU) is the positive and black is the ground, strip back the insulation, wrap the Audiovox wires and solder for a permanent connection. Wrap with electrical tape. Reinstall the taillight.

With the bumper reinstalled and all the electronics connected, and the camera not fully seated, turn the key to Accessory, put the trans into reverse, if all is connected properly, you will see an image on the screen. Adjust the camera until the image is "level" and press the camera into the bumper. One of the silver tabs on the CMOS2 camera was a nearly spot on for vertical alignment, I marked it with blue marker for future reference.

Reinstall the dash pieces and go for a test drive to verify there are no issues.

 

Nice job,

 

Very good write-up.

 

Great write-up. I'm considering doing this as well. Thanks!

 

Thanks,
Best write up I have seen on this yet.

 

:thumb:

 

Great write up. Really wish I had the balls to try this but I'm scared I'd mess it up and have a messed up radio/mess up the dash or worse. Maybe in the summer when it's hotter and I'd be more happy messing about with it in the garage. Just too cold right now if something went wrong!

I'll certainly use this write up if I do it though, excellent!

 

Nice clean job... But to much work... Specially the part you tear apart your dashboard... Was that all necessary..??? My 2007 dashboard seems to be was easy at the moment to removed it... Plus.. You tear apart the driver side dashboard but for some reason you decided the passenger side for the tail light connection... Interesting... But well done... (Y)

 

Dashboard can be out in 5 minutes or less in a JK. I did the same thing in my 2013 JKU and the whole project was about 2 hours. The dash was the easiest part.

 

Very nice write up! Thanks for the notes as well!

 

The dash removal is really easy compared to other vehicles. Just watch the small white plastic clips, they might be loose from pulling out. As for using the passenger side, I mounted the NAV-TV to the right and the cable to the camera went down that side. With the easy access under the carpet and plenty of cable length it made sense to just run it down the passenger side. It took just a couple minutes to run the cable to the rear, easy to fit under the carpet.

As pepatrick mentioned, the whole job might be about two hours if focused and you are comfortable working on cars and soldering wires (if that's how you chose to connect the wires). For me, between documenting the install, dinner, an Eagles documentary on cable TV that kept me looking away (1970s footage was great!) and I think I had to fill up a basketball for the boys - the time got away from me. The job is really straight forward. Having a heater in the garage helped - plastic and cold temps usually means cracked plastic.

The hardest part for me was trying to trim more space for the camera to fit nearing completion. I had already connected the wires at the taillight. - frustrating and I should have known better. I wish I would have test fit more before running the wires. Lesson learned.

Aside from splicing into the reverse light wires, everything else was plug and play. The NAV-TV came with instructions as did the Audiovox camera. If you want to force the camera on at any time, you will need to connect to a switched power wire. The NAV-TV also supports a front camera. I have two other cameras to try out, so I may give that a try.

The picture quality is good with color and the response time from switching into reverse is a second. The night view gets a little grainy but good enough for tight parking situations with just the reverse light bulbs providing illumination.

 

Looks great and awesome write up. That Eagles documentary was really cool wasn't it? Now you should get yourself a pair of these to help with that night vision! 2pcs 3157 3156 White CREE Q5 5W LED 12 5050 SMD Backup Light Bulbs w Lens | eBay

Pictures of the improvement over stock can be seen here http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/v-led-high-power-reverse-lights-207095-4.html#post3460079 Also, just fyi I offered them $24.99 and they accepted it.

 

I installed NAV-TV module with the Audiovox CMOS-2 backup camera

Nice write-up. Thanks for taking the time to document it.

I might do something like this but with a different camera. One of the 3 reviews on Amazon says that the low light quality of this one isn't all that great and I noticed that the product details conveniently left out the lux rating.

I think I'm going to ask the local dealer service department if they'll enable the backup camera feature with their StarScan and then I might be able to avoid having to buy the NAV-TV module. I wouldn't install a Lockpick if it was free due to some expensive problems I had with one on a different vehicle a few years ago.

 

+1 Very nice job!

 

Thx for the write-up....I followed verbatum and it works fine, I used the below $20 camera off of eBay and Navtool

 

How many items do I have to purchase for this install I've got the 430 but .... The harness / camera / & what ?

 

Depending on your bumper you may need a 3/4" or 7/8" drill bit....I also needed extra cable to reach the light and hook up power and ground

 

Don't use a drill bit...use a hole saw

 

Yeah I still have the plastic bumper I may just shoot a hole in it with my 45 bam done JK lol hole saw sounds good , it would be good if you could give part numbers for me great DIY post man . Thanks my wife uses this for her DD so this camera would be safer .

 

if you don't have access to the necessary hole saw, a unibit can also get the job done. Cameras are different sizes. Of the 3 cameras I bought off Amazon, only one came with a hole saw.

Home Depot or Lowes will have a variety hole saws and unibits. if you are cutting a metal bumper, make sure you get the appropriate type of unibit or hole saw.

 

Unibit better than provided hole saw for thick steel bumper

if you don't have access to the necessary hole saw, a unibit can also get the job done. Cameras are different sizes. Of the 3 cameras I bought off Amazon, only one came with a hole saw.

Home Depot or Lowes will have a variety hole saws and unibits. if you are cutting a metal bumper, make sure you get the appropriate type of unibit or hole saw.

The supplied hole saw with the "Gino 1/4" CCD Flush Mount Backup Rear View Camera" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2ZD7OS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1works with plastic or thin sheet metal, but didn't do so well on a thick steel bumper (a quality hole saw e.g. Milwaukee Bi-Metal would definitely work). Also the supplied cutter cuts too tight of a hole (will need reaming). Recommend as stew7710 stated a unibit - that can cut a 3/4 inch hole.

 

Here is a shot of the night vision with the Audiovox CMOS2 - completely dark, except for the reverse lights. The image is a little grainy but I can see what is behind the JKU.

 

I ordered this set up with a switch so I can use it when off road & I won't back into any trees again

 

Ok running the cord for the camera is simple & mounting seems easy but when I use the harness why do I need the allgig A/V cable harness also I have a relay so I could use a switch any info would be helpful

 

I just installed the camera over the weekend. I went with the commander camera and installed according to the instructions above. I need a little help with 2 items to complete the install...first I cant get off the passenger lower panel. I tug and tug and it only feels like it will break. I need to get access to the reverse wire and can't figure out how to remove the panel. Any suggustions would be appreciated. Second after the camera was mounted and I ran the wire thru the gromet in the storage area anyone have any ideas of a good quick disconect that could be spliced into the wire there. I was thinking of a molex connector but dont have the crimping tool.

 

I will install mine in two days when I get off so I can't help ya yet

 

Just installed wireless unit. Wired sending unit to backup light. Ran wires thru the hole in the body for the light harness. Plugged camera a power cord to sending unit. installed led on Windshield just like GPS, works
great, color with grids on the screen. I mounted
The camera to the cage to the taillight rather than license plate for a better field of view.
$100 +Tax at Auto Zone

 

What camera did you use?