You could probably use F102 dual USB port fuse, F91 horn fuse, F36 trailer brake controller or F65 Inverter.

You can also test fuses with the power off, take note of which ones are off. Then turn on the jeep to accy, see which ones turn on and repeat for the button in the run position.

You could piggy back off of the tap you used for the winch, just make sure you are not exceeding the current rating the spot was designed for.

What is the winch wire doing? Is there a light on it, a wireless remote or is this a relay control? The winch itself should not need an ignition switched wire that I can think of.

What you could do is install the control wire for the JL800 to fuse 52 and connect the winch to the VOSwitch. After all, you do have 8 switches. This way you and only you controls what the winch is doing.

I run a 500A solenoid to enable or disable my winch main power and use one of my switch positions to turn it off/on.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't been under the hood for a couple of days, because by the time I was done, I was frustrated. Everything works, but I just have to shut off the switch panel when I shut off the truck. I wanted to sleep on it for a few days. I think I like your idea of spending a few minutes with a tester, assessing which fuses work and which don't. I also might truly try to explore whether I'll do damage by splicing in with the winch. I'm out of town right now, but when I get back to my hometown, I'm going to visit the installer of the winch and ask why he used that fuse block. The winch is a Smittybilt with a USB wired controller. I assume the controller is set up to work only with the accessory. But that might not even be necessary. As far as I'm concerned, that winch can be connected without going through the accessory switch.

On another forum I found in my Google search, I saw someone talking about the complexity of how the electronics work in this fuse panel and that the #52 really is the only one that will work for this particular product. I can't remember what the detail was about how the wiring behaves, but according to that one post, the author said that #52 behaves differently than any other accessory fuse. I'm an older gentleman, so I tend to call electronics "thingamajigs" and find myself utterly outmatched when trying to work with them. I can't recall his reason, just his findings.

On a side note, I've reviewed multiple VOSwitch YouTube install videos done by people all over the place. All of them show every aspect of the installation except that. All of them ignore that one step: Not one single video that I found even addressed the fuse panel. They mentioned the Voswitch could be set up to work with accessory, and then never showed how they got it to do that. I contacted one of the YouTube contributors with my question, and all he did was send me a link to the video I had just commented on.

 

I use the fuse to trigger a relay to draw straight from the battery. If you do it that way, you can operate multiple accessories (winch and lights) from the same fuse.

 

That's an interesting idea. Do you connect directly to #52, then wire that to a standard relay, and then wire the accessories into the relay? Like simply adding an inline relay between #52 and all the accessories?

 

My VOSwitch does go to fuse 52. The reason for that is to turn off the panel when you turn off the Jeep. If you don't want that, you can wire to the battery. Like you, I did want the panel to shut off when I shut down the JT.

If the installer used fuse 52 for the winch controller, I would probably run that to one of the VOSwitch switches. This way, the winch controller is only on when you turn it on. Basically what I did. My winch power (and therefore the winch controller) is only energized when I turn on the switch that controls my 500A solenoid.

 

I visited the company that installed my winch today. They explained that yes, F52 is the ONLY fuse that works with any and all accessories that I want to run only when the vehicle is running. They explained that since I have the Sport, which is the lowest trim model, the fuse box can only allow me to use F52: Cigar lighter. It sounded like if I had a Rubicon or another more expensive model that the fuse box can do more for accessories. They also explained that the only reason they used F52 for the winch is because I had them install a Smittybilt with a cool little lighted driving light logo, and that fuse block was only being used for the logo.

I came home, unplugged the logo, plugged my VOSwitch into F52, and VOILA! I can now shut off the Gladiator and all the lights and cameras shut off with it. Whew! I have, so far, two sets of offroad LEDs on the pilars, one set of road legal LED fog lights on the grill, and my front and rear dash cams now on it also, which took that plug out of my cigar lighter in the dash board. While I was there, I purchased a set of LED Headlights that I'll install tomorrow. Buying the Sport with only one option, which was the "Popular package" that gave me a trailer hitch an a hard top, meant I had those horrible dim headlights that I typically can't tell if they're even on unless I get out and look to see if they're even on.

I drove home in a dark and blinding rainstorm last night, and that was it. Never again. I got up early this morning, drove to the 4wd shop near me and purchased a pair of new LEDs so I never have to do that again. I hope the install is easy. They're 7" so I had to buy the 9" adapters also. I think that once I get these on the Jeep, I'm going to find a good set of street legal, LED bolt on Driving lamps so i can illuminate the road directly in front of me also. Those are difficult to find. I had a pair on my 2010 JKU, but regrettably, let them go when I traded it in for this new Gladiator. They were Rigid, but I'll be darned if I can remember which model number. And every LED I buy now is just not working out. I have two sets of Rigids, a pair of Fog Lights that have a very weird light pattern, and a pair of rigid floods up on the pillars. No matter how I angle the Flood lights they are way too bright for the road. If anyone has a great model number for a quality set of aftermarket SAE, LED driving lights that I can mount on the bumper and drive on the highways, I'd sure appreciate learning what model to order.

 

If you are only running lights off your switch panel, then maybe you could get switch power from the trailer parking light fuse. That way, the switch panel will only work when you have your parking lights on. I don't remember which fuse this is, but I use it to run my front fog lights any time the parking lights are on.