What are the benefits of upgrading the rear sway bar on a 2.5" lifted JK? I never heard much about upgrading the rear sway bar until recently. Does anyone have reviews of this? All the reviews on Amazon were very positive but other than that, I have not found much here. I am thinking about this in combination with a AEV 2.5 lift. Thanks.
Hellwig Rear Sway Bar
Original_Junior
221 - 240 of 271 Posts
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130 Posts
end links & spacers
hey DallasRecon, real nice Jeep, I have the Hellig sway bar also, really helps the on road manners of the Jeep. I need to check that my sway bar is level.
I want to ask, because I thought about buying a set of spacers, and I saw yours in the pic. They just bolt on and you use thread locker also ?
All you need to do is check them every so often to make sure they are tight ?
Did it help with the drive feel of the Jeep any?
I appreciate it, Have a good one !
hey DallasRecon, real nice Jeep, I have the Hellig sway bar also, really helps the on road manners of the Jeep. I need to check that my sway bar is level.
I want to ask, because I thought about buying a set of spacers, and I saw yours in the pic. They just bolt on and you use thread locker also ?
All you need to do is check them every so often to make sure they are tight ?
Did it help with the drive feel of the Jeep any?
I appreciate it, Have a good one !
Joined
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6,162 Posts
Torque the spacers down and check them at every tire rotation. You can tell it has a wider stance. Feels more planted. Makes steering a little heavier.
Joined
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216 Posts
I put my Hellwig on today and it is fantastic!
My rig is lifted 3.5", on 37s, and it is HEAVY. Some background, I have a falcon 3.3s, an anti-rock and a PSC hydro assist up front and, while I really, really like my pre-Hellwig set up, the combination of the psc and antirock really didnt do any favors for handling at highway speeds - or so I thought.
Once I put the Hellwig on, the ride firmed up significantly - in a good way - and became waaaaaaaaay better handling at speed. My rear is less bouncy and the entire rig is more stable - and all around phenomenal.
I am a bit concerned about the Hellwig restricting flex offroad. Perhaps I'll put on some rear quick disconnects but in no way, shape, or form am I going back to stock.
Once again, hats off to the WF for identifying great products and debating the pro's and con's for us all to see and evaluate for ourselves.
Highly recommend this rear sway bar to anyone whose Jeep is somewhat flighty at speed.
On a separate matter, I am putting my jeep on a diet and shedding ~200 lbs of bumpers (mostly upfront) so I'm anxious to see how the handling changes after that swap.
My rig is lifted 3.5", on 37s, and it is HEAVY. Some background, I have a falcon 3.3s, an anti-rock and a PSC hydro assist up front and, while I really, really like my pre-Hellwig set up, the combination of the psc and antirock really didnt do any favors for handling at highway speeds - or so I thought.
Once I put the Hellwig on, the ride firmed up significantly - in a good way - and became waaaaaaaaay better handling at speed. My rear is less bouncy and the entire rig is more stable - and all around phenomenal.
I am a bit concerned about the Hellwig restricting flex offroad. Perhaps I'll put on some rear quick disconnects but in no way, shape, or form am I going back to stock.
Once again, hats off to the WF for identifying great products and debating the pro's and con's for us all to see and evaluate for ourselves.
Highly recommend this rear sway bar to anyone whose Jeep is somewhat flighty at speed.
On a separate matter, I am putting my jeep on a diet and shedding ~200 lbs of bumpers (mostly upfront) so I'm anxious to see how the handling changes after that swap.
Joined
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6,162 Posts
I bet it’s great with a heavy rig.
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130 Posts
Firm ride for $200 Alex,
I am trying out a set of TJM XGS 'm o u s e' Gold Edition That's way to long a name for shocks. Supposedly from Australia, eh not so much.
The red rubi shocks were softies after 11K miles. Hellwig helped them quit a bit on that side to side lean crap.
I can't go back, Hellwig stays.
I need to look and see if the sway bar ends are pointed down, like in the previously posted pic.
Yeah I like the firm ride. Throw in a set load range 'E' BF Goodrich Rugged trails, and buddy, its pretty stout in the 'unforgiveness' ride department. I'm good with that, I can't tolerate 'wallow'.
I am trying out a set of TJM XGS 'm o u s e' Gold Edition That's way to long a name for shocks. Supposedly from Australia, eh not so much.
The red rubi shocks were softies after 11K miles. Hellwig helped them quit a bit on that side to side lean crap.
I can't go back, Hellwig stays.
I need to look and see if the sway bar ends are pointed down, like in the previously posted pic.
Joined
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115 Posts
I need this Hellwig rear Swaybar !
Where is the best price online ?
Where is the best price online ?
Joined
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203 Posts
After reading this thread, I decided to order one today. Best I could find was $151 from 4 Wheel Parts after a 5% off coupon code. I'll pick it up at my local store in a few days. I'm hoping it puts an end to that side to side sway others are mentioning. I replaced my old Teraflex 9550 shocks with Rancho 5000x recently and that didn't fix the issue. Hoping this Hellwig is the answer.
Joined
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203 Posts
Well, 4 Wheel Parts just called me and said there is a 4 week backlog from Hellwig on these bars. I'm not in a hurry so I can wait, but if anyone else is about to buy one, make sure the vendor has one in stock if you need it quick. While on the phone, I asked the guy how much they'd charge me to install when the bar comes in, and he said $60. I had planned to do it myself, but for that price I'll probably let them do it, knowing that I tend to turn easy projects into multi-day disasters.
Joined
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356 Posts
I got mine off ebay for $135. Install is easy but make sure you spray the bolts. And do not use an impact gun to take them off. I snapped a factory bolt in the frame and spent 3 hours drilling it out and tapping the frame to accept the next size up bolt. Since then i have removed the sway bar with zero issues.
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216 Posts
I got mine from www.rvautoparts.com for $154 shipped ($138.99 plus $15.95 shipping). Odd source but it dropped shipped from a local Dallas Keystone warehouse and it was at my house in two days. Ordered on 8/13 and it was received on 8/15.
Joined
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652 Posts
I run the 5000x shocks and from what I can tell they're pretty soft which may be contributing to the swaying/rocking issue in the first place. I wanna upgrade to the Hellwig bar soon
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203 Posts
Our setups are pretty similar. Same lift, same shocks, and even same trackbars. So I'll definitely follow up here after mine is installed in a few weeks and I see how it performs.
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686 Posts
Well I started this thread a couple of years back and to date have nothing but positive things to say. I have not seen any negatives in daily driving, wet driving, snow driving, or offroad. No major rock crawling by any means but more overland and mud trails.
Glad to see this thread has been beneficial to so many. My thanks goes out to Rubitrux for recommending this to me years back.
Glad to see this thread has been beneficial to so many. My thanks goes out to Rubitrux for recommending this to me years back.
Joined
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69 Posts
After reading through this thread I decided to purchase and install the Hellwig rear sway bar on my 2017 Rubicon Recon. I took pics and have the install fresh in my mind, thought I’d share the experience.
I know a lot of guys installed without taking off the back wheels, some removed the muffler, etc. I decided to remove the back wheels to have more wiggle room (I had all Friday night to wrench on the JKU).
The instructions from Hellwig are very generic and don’t appear to be for a JK (at least the instructions in my box). Added a little common sense, trial and error, it went well.
Tips learned that were not in instructions:
- If removing rear wheels and using jack stands under the axel, the bolt connecting the sway bar to the link on the passenger side can be difficult to access. I used another set of stands to support the frame, supported the center of the axel with the jack and then lowered the axel and supporting stands. This allowed enough room to gain access to the bolt on the passenger side.
- Be careful as the rear brake lines are positioned close to the sway bar. I removed the brake line bracket holding it to the frame. This allowed to move the brake like without damaging.
- Take your time when removing all the bolts, especially those connecting to the frame. My JKU is 1 year old, one bolt had a decent amount of rust. As others said, spray with a rust remover or rust penetrating spray...set overnight (or in my situation go make a sandwich).
- I had issues removing the factory sway bar from underneath the Jeep. Could not for the life of me get it to wiggle out. After a few choice words, I lowered the axel a little more (while maintaining support with 4 stands). Lowering the axel gave enough clearance to wiggle out.
- Once all hardware is removed, take the time to clean all the bolts. I used some gun cleaning products and a copper brush to clean out the threads. A copper brush is great as it won’t damage threads.
- The instructions say to lubricate the insides of the D shaped bushings inside the kit. WARNING, the white lubricant is extremely sticky and difficult to get off your hands. I applied with my finger and after washing multiple times, it stills feels like there’s some remaining. Put on a latex glove (or whatever) to apply the lubricant. Also, apply the lubricant and bushings AFTER getting the bar positioned under the Jeep and connected to the end links. Sliding the bushings leaves a trace of the lubricant all over the bar. If you put the lube and bushings on first and they're not in the correct position, you’ll need to slide the bushing across the bar. Yep, you’ll end up grabbing the bar later and have more on your hands. Maybe this was a given, I wasn’t so smart.
- Before installing the bar, check the holes on both ends to see if the end links will pass through. You can hold the bar on the outside of the Jeep and test to make sure the bolts will pass through. After reading about someone in this thread drilling theirs out, thought it would be good to test. When testing, check BOTH ends. I only checked one end and it passed through. Guess what? The end I didn’t check had issues during the install. There was some leftover coating inside the hole blocking the end link from passing through. I used a smaller drill bit to clean out the inside of the holes. Lesson learned, check both ends before installing.
- The new Hellwig bar slipped in easy. The box with parts from Hellwig contained blue thread locker. Instructions don’t mention. Since it’s the blue thread locker, it’s not the strong red version, I applied to all the bolts. It would be easier to remove in the future if needed.
- Take your time installing the bolts. If there’s a lot of resistance, don’t force and possibly snap a bolt. As someone else mentioned back it out and try again. The back and forth (might take several times) can help loosen the inside threads within the frame. I had to do this with one frame bolt. In and out, repeat.
- After the new Hellwig sway bar is installed, make sure brake lines are on the correct side. I had carefully moved the driver’s side and it ended up on the incorrect side of the bar. Had to disconnect the driver’s end link from the bar and reposition the brake line. My bad.
- Make sure to reinstall the smaller bolts on both sides that holds the brake line to the frame. No mistakes made here on my end. Thought to share a Captain Safety tip.
- I torqued the bolts according to Hellwig’s instructions. I have no clue if these are general or specific to a JKU. I looked online and finally just went with the instructions.
After the install was complete, tools cleaned up and put away, I went for a test drive. I’m amazed how this changed the tightness of the rear suspension in turns. I need to drive again today and see if it’s really that noticeable. Overall a great modification at a low cost. I’m surprised all JK’s don’t have this size from the factory.
For the first time installing a sway bar on a JK, I was patient and burned time cleaning up and making sure the install was correct. If I had to perform again, I would be able to fly through the install (after learning a few things along the initial install).
Here are some pics.
Box from Hellwig:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Check out the difference between stock and Hellwig:
![Image]()
Another shot comparing stock vs. Hellwig:
![Image]()
Clean them up!
![Image]()
Hellwig bar measuring 22mm. Hard to see in pic as ruler is flat and bar curved.
![Image]()
Stock bar measuring at 16mm. Again, hard to see in this pic since rule is flat.
![Image]()
Check both holes on the Hellwig bar. Pic below shows the mattering I had to drill out:
![Image]()
Hope this helps or provides some reading entertainment. If your looking for a DIY mod that’s inexpensive, get the Hellwig rear sway bar.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know a lot of guys installed without taking off the back wheels, some removed the muffler, etc. I decided to remove the back wheels to have more wiggle room (I had all Friday night to wrench on the JKU).
The instructions from Hellwig are very generic and don’t appear to be for a JK (at least the instructions in my box). Added a little common sense, trial and error, it went well.
Tips learned that were not in instructions:
- If removing rear wheels and using jack stands under the axel, the bolt connecting the sway bar to the link on the passenger side can be difficult to access. I used another set of stands to support the frame, supported the center of the axel with the jack and then lowered the axel and supporting stands. This allowed enough room to gain access to the bolt on the passenger side.
- Be careful as the rear brake lines are positioned close to the sway bar. I removed the brake line bracket holding it to the frame. This allowed to move the brake like without damaging.
- Take your time when removing all the bolts, especially those connecting to the frame. My JKU is 1 year old, one bolt had a decent amount of rust. As others said, spray with a rust remover or rust penetrating spray...set overnight (or in my situation go make a sandwich).
- I had issues removing the factory sway bar from underneath the Jeep. Could not for the life of me get it to wiggle out. After a few choice words, I lowered the axel a little more (while maintaining support with 4 stands). Lowering the axel gave enough clearance to wiggle out.
- Once all hardware is removed, take the time to clean all the bolts. I used some gun cleaning products and a copper brush to clean out the threads. A copper brush is great as it won’t damage threads.
- The instructions say to lubricate the insides of the D shaped bushings inside the kit. WARNING, the white lubricant is extremely sticky and difficult to get off your hands. I applied with my finger and after washing multiple times, it stills feels like there’s some remaining. Put on a latex glove (or whatever) to apply the lubricant. Also, apply the lubricant and bushings AFTER getting the bar positioned under the Jeep and connected to the end links. Sliding the bushings leaves a trace of the lubricant all over the bar. If you put the lube and bushings on first and they're not in the correct position, you’ll need to slide the bushing across the bar. Yep, you’ll end up grabbing the bar later and have more on your hands. Maybe this was a given, I wasn’t so smart.
- Before installing the bar, check the holes on both ends to see if the end links will pass through. You can hold the bar on the outside of the Jeep and test to make sure the bolts will pass through. After reading about someone in this thread drilling theirs out, thought it would be good to test. When testing, check BOTH ends. I only checked one end and it passed through. Guess what? The end I didn’t check had issues during the install. There was some leftover coating inside the hole blocking the end link from passing through. I used a smaller drill bit to clean out the inside of the holes. Lesson learned, check both ends before installing.
- The new Hellwig bar slipped in easy. The box with parts from Hellwig contained blue thread locker. Instructions don’t mention. Since it’s the blue thread locker, it’s not the strong red version, I applied to all the bolts. It would be easier to remove in the future if needed.
- Take your time installing the bolts. If there’s a lot of resistance, don’t force and possibly snap a bolt. As someone else mentioned back it out and try again. The back and forth (might take several times) can help loosen the inside threads within the frame. I had to do this with one frame bolt. In and out, repeat.
- After the new Hellwig sway bar is installed, make sure brake lines are on the correct side. I had carefully moved the driver’s side and it ended up on the incorrect side of the bar. Had to disconnect the driver’s end link from the bar and reposition the brake line. My bad.
- Make sure to reinstall the smaller bolts on both sides that holds the brake line to the frame. No mistakes made here on my end. Thought to share a Captain Safety tip.
- I torqued the bolts according to Hellwig’s instructions. I have no clue if these are general or specific to a JKU. I looked online and finally just went with the instructions.
After the install was complete, tools cleaned up and put away, I went for a test drive. I’m amazed how this changed the tightness of the rear suspension in turns. I need to drive again today and see if it’s really that noticeable. Overall a great modification at a low cost. I’m surprised all JK’s don’t have this size from the factory.
For the first time installing a sway bar on a JK, I was patient and burned time cleaning up and making sure the install was correct. If I had to perform again, I would be able to fly through the install (after learning a few things along the initial install).
Here are some pics.
Box from Hellwig:
Check out the difference between stock and Hellwig:
Another shot comparing stock vs. Hellwig:
Clean them up!
Hellwig bar measuring 22mm. Hard to see in pic as ruler is flat and bar curved.
Stock bar measuring at 16mm. Again, hard to see in this pic since rule is flat.
Check both holes on the Hellwig bar. Pic below shows the mattering I had to drill out:
Hope this helps or provides some reading entertainment. If your looking for a DIY mod that’s inexpensive, get the Hellwig rear sway bar.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
·
69 Posts
How necessary is it to install taller links. Mine are perfectly level, but also not too far off. I just performed a thorough test drive and can tell a big difference in the turns, especially on roads where I’d slow down due to the pitch and curve in the road. I drove the same section of road a few times and can’t believe how well it handles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
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7,436 Posts
@Moliver11 what you describe about jacking up the axle is what I experienced as well. I jacked up using the rear bumper (frame will work to). The idea is to get the suspension at full droop. When that is done I didn’t have to remove anything including the wheels. It’s a little bit of a puzzle figuring out how to get it out but not that bad. Also had to drill out both sides of the Hellwig using a step bit.
Joined
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69 Posts
Absolutely correct in having the suspension at full drop. I kept the axle the same level per the instructions. Another reason I feel the instructions are generic.
I would like to have tried this again with suspension at full drop. Hopefully my other tips help someone, especially when to apply the white lube (and not get it all over your hands).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
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652 Posts
Ever get this installed? If so, how do you like it?
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