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High Speed Desert Running - what upgrades?

38K views 235 replies 34 participants last post by  uncsjfu  
I think you are going to need to upgrade your D30. Cheap gusset, truss and I would sleeve, save money for when it breaks. Even with a D44 or pro rock 44 I would gusset and truss.
 
So I have the King Shocks Hydraulic Bump Stops installed.

I have been researching 6-pak shocks and the leaking after 2-years has me concerned. I have read reports of people needing to get all 4 rebuilt 3 times in 1 year at $75 per rebuild.

Someone had mentioned King 2.5's, can someone link me to either a setup of 4 or 2 front and 2 rear? I have 3.5" MC long travel lift.

This is what I am looking at:

2x rear


1x front (driver)

1x front (passenger)
Can't speak to the King Shocks other than I know they are top notch. Concerning the 6-pak shocks if someone is having that much problem there is a problem with the hard parts, not the soft parts. I have had mine on for about a year now and have had no problems whats so ever.
 
Forget turning the Jeep into a high speed desert runner and buy something like a Polaris RZR XP 1000. Use the Jeep for rocks and pulling the Razor to the desert.
 
Not jealous at all, I happen to think trying to make a Jeep into a good desert runner is just too costly of an endeavor. Running sand dunes is one thing but getting it out in the open desert and running any kind of speed is all together a different equation. But it is your money so you can do what you want.

One area that I have not seen touched on though is safety. Have you looked into adding a cage. What about helmets. I can tell you from experience you will banging your head on the pillars or the side glass. What about safety harnesses. Again I can tell you from experience that a seat belt will not hold you in the seat well enough and trying to keep your seat position and drive at the same time is not a good thing.

I hope you make it work but for me it was better to make my Jeep a rock crawler, DD and cross country towing vehicle and when I move to Utah or Nevada later this year get a Razor for playing in the dunes and the open desert.
 
Enough already. While I would not be doing what the OP is intending it is also not my money. But I am interested in who this turns out. So lets get back on topic, please.
 
Amen.

I'm in the middle of a move so finances are temporary tied up. I do have a pair of King Shocks 2.0 Coil-Over 12 inch Travel with Reservoir & Springs PR2012-COHRS on order for the rear.

After I move and have a new address I will look into front shocks (I assume same coil-overs), original place I ordered from seems non-responsive, possibly out of business since they don't pickup the phone.

I already have 37" KO2's, MC Long Travel 3.5" GameChanger lift and King Hydraulic Bump Stops installed. Still never been out in the desert but I know a place nearby, need to get whip/flag for visibility and then I may take it out with a tour group that knows the trails to get a feel for it. If I like it I can always look into safety upgrades and possibly a supercharger. I don't think I can afford an engine swap this year sadly, I should probably buy a house first.

Also looked into G2 44 ProRock Front Axle upgrade, mainly so I can confidently change gears to 5.13 (this will probably take priority over the aforementioned changes). Was originally looking at a Detroit "locker" up front, I think it is more reliable then the Auburn ECTED Max but availability may be an issue. I am not going to bother with an ARB or similar up front, I have e-locker for the rear and I hear a front LSD is actually really nice for Desert running.
Another question I have to ask, how serious are you about re-powering? If only adding a super charger then you gear choice is probably ok. But if you are looking at something like an engine swap to say a LS motor you might not want that big of gear. The LS2 I had in my Vette made 300 ft lbs plus of torque at the rear wheels from 1800 rpms through redline. I myself was going to regear to 4.88 until I saw that at 80 mph I would be turning over 3000 rpm. While the Pentestar may not mind being there I don't need a V8 to live there. Just food for thought.
 
I'd have to have a real good reason to invest in an engine swap over a down payment for a house. So not very likely on an engine swap, good point though.

I assume Hemi/LS swap is at least $30k all-in where as I can get a supercharger installed for under $8k, right?
A LS swap is a bit cheaper than a Hemi swap I think. Since I have a manual mine will cost more but like you I will probably have to wait a bit as we are also house hunting, Saint George Utah or Mesquite NV. I will also be doing all the work myself so I am hope to pull it off for under 15K.

From what I have seen that should get you a supercharger installed. But I have really not looked into it much. I thought I might go this way but now i'm over 50K so I'll take that money and use it for a swap.


Edit: How are the King Bump Stops working. I though of maybe doing something like that myself. Even a rock crawler needs to move down the road at times. Seems like maybe it would potentially take some of the harshness out of the ride.
 
Even though it would piss off the diehards I would lean LS over Hemi due to weight. Haven't notice any improvements w/ hydraulic bumps, one reason I am itching to swap out my OME shocks - although to be fair I have done zero wheeling since having them installed which is probably when I would notice it the most. Been a cold winter here in Vegas and some of my trips got postponed due to weather.
I know I played 2 rounds of golf there last week. Was hoping for 80's and got 50's. But 50's in Vegas is a whole lot nicer than 50's in Seattle.
 
I have TeraFlex bumpstops- and they do make a big difference. But not on the road- I don't think you'd see any improvement there with anyone's bumpstop. They need to flex or see decent bumps to really engage them. Not something you'll encounter on the street. But on a dirt road- they'll make an impact. The first few runs they squeaked when they compressed- I sounded like a bad mattress going down the trail. LOL. But I didn't mind- I could motor a little faster from Point A to B than my fellow Jeepers. Without losing height due to spinal compression. You'd probably get better results replacing the shocks.
Yes I was talking about dirt road between trail heads
 
Yes to good to be true, that is a TJ axle
 
It's the beating I will get from the wife. I have been involved in some short of racing for last 50 years. We are moving to Saint George or Mesquite later this year I hope. I was already planning on a UTV and the wife is on board. But once I bring up racing I think I am in trouble.
 
so if LS3 or LT4 engine swaps are even a possibility I should probably rethink gearing.



In video above owner is running 37's w/ 4.88 and wished he had only gone to 4.56
Yep, my Vette made 300+ ft lbs of torque from about 1800 rpms through redline at the rear wheels with 3.43 gears.

Think about this, a LS3 produces 420 ft lbs of torque. Not counting mechanical loss using 1st gear from a 6l80 tranny, 4.02, 4:1 transfer case and 5.13 you are putting almost 35K ft lbs of torque to the axle. Hell I am thinking 4.10 would be fine.
 
Out of curiosity since I am running a Sahara (75th Ann Ed) w/ 2.72 transfer case how do those numbers change? It was my understanding the 2.72 transfer case would be an improvement over the 4:1 on the Rubi's for higher speed running, true?
23,500 ft lbs give a take a few. Yes 2.72 would be better than 4.1 for high speed running. Still though make sure when building the axles they can handle that amount of torque.
 
I'm not trying to spend you money or anything but I would seriously look at 35 spline ARB lockers and RCV axle shafts. It look like they can handle about 8000 ft lbs of torque. Of course the skinny pedal is the key to controlling all of it. And its not like you will be in 1st gear all the time.
 
I was just looking at the 35 spline aspect.
 
Well I am glad to see you back in the thick of it. The saga continues.