Hi all! New to the forum. Trying to fulfill my 12 year old self’s dream and finally getting a Jeep 22 years later. I went to the dealership just to test drive one as I’ve never driven one before and had no intent of buying that same day. They had the exact one I’ve always wanted: 2 door hardtop in red. I’ve never negotiated on a car before so I have no idea what I’m doing. The salesman wanted to just look at numbers after I test drove and I was curious. They took $500 off, tossed in free side steps (they said it was worth $900 but most that I’m seeing online are $300 max). They also said all of their cars come with connect and protect ($699), nitrogen ($169), and window tint ($499) all with lifetime warranty. After everything final price was $48,300. Would I be able to talk down the price at all? If not, would it still be overpriced? I’ve included the window sticker as well.
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Muhree
Is this 2024 2 door Sport S worth it?
1 reading
Hi all! New to the forum. Trying to fulfill my 12 year old self’s dream and finally getting a Jeep 22 years later. I went to the dealership just to test drive one as I’ve never driven one before and had no intent of buying that same day. They had the exact one I’ve always wanted: 2 door hardtop in red. I’ve never negotiated on a car before so I have no idea what I’m doing. The salesman wanted to just look at numbers after I test drove and I was curious. They took $500 off, tossed in free side steps (they said it was worth $900 but most that I’m seeing online are $300 max). They also said all of their cars come with connect and protect ($699), nitrogen ($169), and window tint ($499) all with lifetime warranty. After everything final price was $48,300. Would I be able to talk down the price at all? If not, would it still be overpriced? I’ve included the window sticker as well.
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Sticker is $42,545, what is the $48k price?
Avoid paying for any dealer add-ons. That would be anything above the window's $42,545 price. For example you mentioned tint for $499. The tint is factory, says so on the window sticker. Means the tint is already included in the $42,545 price, and should not be an extra $499. Basically all the dealer add-ons are bullshit. Starting point should be $42,545, period.
The window sticker is called the Monroney sticker, it's there to protect the buyer, unless there are dealer upgrades that you particularly ask them to installed, the starting point for any sale is window sticker MSRP. Even during COVID it was the window sticker, the dealers where just more honest telling you they where charging you $10k over MSRP. Now they are just back to their shady ways.
Given the current environment and Jeep's inventory, your price should be or less then $42,545.
If I had to guess, you could reasonable get the Jeep for $40,843. They will say no at least 4 times, so start at 5% off and be prepared. Say things like "maybe I should look around to be more comfortable paying what you want", " interest rates are high, the more I pay the more it's going to cost me". Even say shit like moneys tight, we're planning to have a kid so anything I save is important. Bullshit them like they bullshit you, just don't let them talk monthly payments, sale price only. Everything else is just term and rate division.
Important!!! The only cost above the window sticker price would be, a reasonable, doc fee $50-$100, registration, and sales tax. Anything else is bullshit and don't believe anything they say otherwise.
Good luck!
Avoid paying for any dealer add-ons. That would be anything above the window's $42,545 price. For example you mentioned tint for $499. The tint is factory, says so on the window sticker. Means the tint is already included in the $42,545 price, and should not be an extra $499. Basically all the dealer add-ons are bullshit. Starting point should be $42,545, period.
The window sticker is called the Monroney sticker, it's there to protect the buyer, unless there are dealer upgrades that you particularly ask them to installed, the starting point for any sale is window sticker MSRP. Even during COVID it was the window sticker, the dealers where just more honest telling you they where charging you $10k over MSRP. Now they are just back to their shady ways.
Given the current environment and Jeep's inventory, your price should be or less then $42,545.
If I had to guess, you could reasonable get the Jeep for $40,843. They will say no at least 4 times, so start at 5% off and be prepared. Say things like "maybe I should look around to be more comfortable paying what you want", " interest rates are high, the more I pay the more it's going to cost me". Even say shit like moneys tight, we're planning to have a kid so anything I save is important. Bullshit them like they bullshit you, just don't let them talk monthly payments, sale price only. Everything else is just term and rate division.
Important!!! The only cost above the window sticker price would be, a reasonable, doc fee $50-$100, registration, and sales tax. Anything else is bullshit and don't believe anything they say otherwise.
Good luck!
I have no idea what connect and protect is, nitrogen is a scam no matter what they tell you, and as mentioned above window tint is included from the factory. At the end of the day it is only worth what you are willing to pay for it and only you know that price, but it is always best to get it as low as possible.
All good advice, the only thing I would add to that is when you negotiate price use the term "out the door price" if you just use the term price or Jeep price they will lower the price of the vehicle and then tack stuff onto the back end of it. When you use terms like "out the door price" it means all costs, taxes and fees as a final price. It is just another way to know exactly what you are paying and not try to load you up on the back end with crap. As much as they act like they are out there to help you they are out there to help themselves, 100% of the time, they are against you no matter what they say. At the end of the day it is only worth what you are willing to pay for it and only you know that price, but it is always best to get it as low as possible.
Ask for a copy of the the life time warranty and read it throughly, that's the only add on worth anything, maybe. Note it's probably only at that dealer and will have many exclusions. 5% off MSRP seems to be the norm. Good luck, Lee.
$48k is definitely a high out the door price. As others have mentioned, 5% off ($2k+) without dealer ads is a good number. I think you should try to be between $43-44k out the door including all taxes and fees. They may put up a fight but try your best. It's tough when you also like the vehicle a lot but try to escalate and talk to the GSM or higher ups to get your deal squared away.
Don't forget to try to line up your credit union for a fair APR if you aren't paying cash. APRs are high right now but hopefully the dealer doesn't take advantage of you there as well.
Watch out for your trade-in value if you are deciding to trade in a vehicle.
Don't forget to try to line up your credit union for a fair APR if you aren't paying cash. APRs are high right now but hopefully the dealer doesn't take advantage of you there as well.
Watch out for your trade-in value if you are deciding to trade in a vehicle.
What they all said.
Go to another dealer.
Negotiate the out the door price.
Don't pay for add ons - just title, tax, tag and usually there's a doc fee which can be very hard to get around, but it's small potatoes next to the crap that dealer had listed.
I don't buy warranties. I have saved enough in my lifetime of not buying warranties to have paid cash for our Land Rover (I own a new Land Rover without an extended warranty, and even if I have to pay thousands to fix it some day I will still be ahead). But if cash is tight I understand why warranties feel attractive. You'll have to make that decision yourself. Just know that many aftermarket ones are not worth the paper on which they are written and even the OEMs can be troublesome these days.
Financing - yeah, secure your own.
FINALLY - if you are really bad at negotiating - ask the dealer if they will accept an affiliate code and if they say yes, look into the Tread Lightly program. You used to be able to make a $100 donation and get one affiliate code which got you fixed pricing of 1% below dealer invoice plus a single $75 fee. It's how I ordered my 2016. (Keep in mind you used to have to joint Tread Lightly and wait 30 days to ask for a code, check into the program if you want try and use it). Anyway, I didn't bother using a code two months ago when I picked up my 2023 because they were willing to come a few grand off MSRP with no add on just negotiating long distance over the phone. That was like 6% off MSRP, so probably in the same ballpark as affiliate, maybe a little higher.
Go to another dealer.
Negotiate the out the door price.
Don't pay for add ons - just title, tax, tag and usually there's a doc fee which can be very hard to get around, but it's small potatoes next to the crap that dealer had listed.
I don't buy warranties. I have saved enough in my lifetime of not buying warranties to have paid cash for our Land Rover (I own a new Land Rover without an extended warranty, and even if I have to pay thousands to fix it some day I will still be ahead). But if cash is tight I understand why warranties feel attractive. You'll have to make that decision yourself. Just know that many aftermarket ones are not worth the paper on which they are written and even the OEMs can be troublesome these days.
Financing - yeah, secure your own.
FINALLY - if you are really bad at negotiating - ask the dealer if they will accept an affiliate code and if they say yes, look into the Tread Lightly program. You used to be able to make a $100 donation and get one affiliate code which got you fixed pricing of 1% below dealer invoice plus a single $75 fee. It's how I ordered my 2016. (Keep in mind you used to have to joint Tread Lightly and wait 30 days to ask for a code, check into the program if you want try and use it). Anyway, I didn't bother using a code two months ago when I picked up my 2023 because they were willing to come a few grand off MSRP with no add on just negotiating long distance over the phone. That was like 6% off MSRP, so probably in the same ballpark as affiliate, maybe a little higher.
I have always looked at vehicles then gone home and arranged my own financing. Then I go back and do the deal. Dealers today always have side stickers where they add this and that. An example around here was putting fabric treatment on the side sticker. My salesman got so tired of me picking at it, that on the last Jeep (my 2017) he took the side sticker, crumbled it up and tossed it when I first sat down. (When I bought my 2015 after the deal the front license plate bracket was still charged, so I asked for it. As it turned out they don't make one for Jeeps, so the dealer had to cut a check back to me for $41. That was the only thing I hadn't knocked off the side sticker at the time of the purchase).
As others have said, the nitrogen charge is a scam. Maybe they do put nitrogen in the tires, and maybe they don't. It doesn't do a thing for the tires. Window tint is another scam. The rear side windows are generally darker than he front side and rear windows which are generally a little darker than the windshield. Most states have laws regarding the percentage of the tint that is legal and they are fairly consistent and the manufacturers tint them to that standard. There may be a federal standard the states can't go below (for example they can't forbid any tint).
Connect and protect? It may be a tracking device. Some dealers install a tracking device if you finance through them. That way if you are in default, they can find the vehicle to reposes. If you arrange your own financing, that would be illegal.
Here is a dirty little secret - dealers trade vehicles. If you like that Jeep, then go to another dealer, tell them what you want and see if they can find one.
Looking at the number, with the $500 discount (wow!) and all the add on items you get to $43,412, which is still high, but there is a $4888 difference between that number and the quoted $48,300. Would that be the financing charge? If you have the VIN, you can run a copy of the window sticker here (backspace delete the VIN in the link and put in yours.
https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=1C4BJWDG8HL561573
That sticker will give you the options on the Sport S that you can tell the other dealer to look for. You might leave of a minor one, so when he does come up with the 2DR you were looking at, you can say okay. Dealers trade vehicles all the time. It has eased somewhat with the JL but up through the JK if a dealer wanted a Wrangler he had to give up a Wrangler. Otherwise they could trade a PU for a Charger and so forth. But Wranglers were very limited. In order to get a Wrangler from the factory they had to sell one. So if they traded a Wrangler for a Charger, they could not get a replacement for the Wrangler.
As others have said, the nitrogen charge is a scam. Maybe they do put nitrogen in the tires, and maybe they don't. It doesn't do a thing for the tires. Window tint is another scam. The rear side windows are generally darker than he front side and rear windows which are generally a little darker than the windshield. Most states have laws regarding the percentage of the tint that is legal and they are fairly consistent and the manufacturers tint them to that standard. There may be a federal standard the states can't go below (for example they can't forbid any tint).
Connect and protect? It may be a tracking device. Some dealers install a tracking device if you finance through them. That way if you are in default, they can find the vehicle to reposes. If you arrange your own financing, that would be illegal.
Here is a dirty little secret - dealers trade vehicles. If you like that Jeep, then go to another dealer, tell them what you want and see if they can find one.
Looking at the number, with the $500 discount (wow!) and all the add on items you get to $43,412, which is still high, but there is a $4888 difference between that number and the quoted $48,300. Would that be the financing charge? If you have the VIN, you can run a copy of the window sticker here (backspace delete the VIN in the link and put in yours.
https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=1C4BJWDG8HL561573
That sticker will give you the options on the Sport S that you can tell the other dealer to look for. You might leave of a minor one, so when he does come up with the 2DR you were looking at, you can say okay. Dealers trade vehicles all the time. It has eased somewhat with the JL but up through the JK if a dealer wanted a Wrangler he had to give up a Wrangler. Otherwise they could trade a PU for a Charger and so forth. But Wranglers were very limited. In order to get a Wrangler from the factory they had to sell one. So if they traded a Wrangler for a Charger, they could not get a replacement for the Wrangler.
I recently walked in to a local cjdr dealer after finding the particular new Ram Build O wanted, took the sticker inside handed the sticker to the salesman and said here's the out the door price, no ad ons, no warranties other than the factory, taxes lic doc included.
I got my ask, less the sales taxes, which were offset by dealer incentive. They will give you what you ask. I have found it easier to give them a Fair price and stick to it.
Walking out the door for a day or two if needed is worth the thousands you'll save.
Never take the first sheet they hand you and don't be afraid to tell them No.
I got my ask, less the sales taxes, which were offset by dealer incentive. They will give you what you ask. I have found it easier to give them a Fair price and stick to it.
Walking out the door for a day or two if needed is worth the thousands you'll save.
Never take the first sheet they hand you and don't be afraid to tell them No.
New to the forum community. I to just purchased a 2023 sport in sarge green. I pick up the vehicle today. to answer your question. that is too high of a price. The vehicle i purchased is a technically used with 6200 miles, previous owner traded in on charger. Anyway, with interest rate hikes (at least in the northeast) deals can be negotiated, my vehicle was stickered at 44,200. as a used certified preowned vehicle, out the door at 38,600.
I used Carvana and Carmax as leverage against my dealer both for trade in value and price.
I used Carvana and Carmax as leverage against my dealer both for trade in value and price.
Great advice given in the previous comments. Here's my two cents:
1. EVERYTHING is negotiable. If the dealer tells you something isn't, they're either lying to you or trying to bully you into something you don't want.
2. Don't be afraid to say no or walk away. You have all the power. Dealers (especially Jeep dealers) are a dime-a-dozen, and you should definitely shop around before making any decisions. If you can't find exactly what you want at another dealer, and you can wait a while, you can always put in a factory order and get exactly what you want. That's what I ended up doing for my current jeep, and it worked out well.
3. Regarding the negotiation, check out a few videos from the YAA guys on youtube; they've got some great videos on negotiations and how to approach the process. In general, the more informed a dealer thinks you are, the less likely they'll try to take advantage of you.
Good luck.
1. EVERYTHING is negotiable. If the dealer tells you something isn't, they're either lying to you or trying to bully you into something you don't want.
2. Don't be afraid to say no or walk away. You have all the power. Dealers (especially Jeep dealers) are a dime-a-dozen, and you should definitely shop around before making any decisions. If you can't find exactly what you want at another dealer, and you can wait a while, you can always put in a factory order and get exactly what you want. That's what I ended up doing for my current jeep, and it worked out well.
3. Regarding the negotiation, check out a few videos from the YAA guys on youtube; they've got some great videos on negotiations and how to approach the process. In general, the more informed a dealer thinks you are, the less likely they'll try to take advantage of you.
Good luck.
Thank you all so much for taking the time to reply! This is a copy of what they came up with when I was there two weeks ago. This was before the $500 off and added side steps. I looked at all the dealers within 100 miles and only found two other red 2 door Sport S. They were $2-3k more. One of you guys pointed out only negotiating the out the door price. The salesman only wanted to talk monthly numbers. Should I go back and try to negotiate or is it cheaper to order a new build? I’m looking to put about $15k down payment.
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Stay away from monthly payment talks. Escalate the matter to the general sales manager to try and have more leverage. You have to be firm on your end to get what you want and where you need to be. Salesperson will make more money on more gross he holds on front end profit.
If the salesman only wants to talk monthly numbers, that's a red flag. Only talk out-the-door price with a salesman. Monthly numbers only apply to financing, which is a separate negotiation (also a separate person, and a separate department in the dealership). The salesman wants to get the highest price, then he'll pass you off to the financing person, who wants the highest interest rate on your loan (if you're financing).
If you have the time, talk to the other two dealers first before you commit to anything. If you can visit them, that would be best. That way you'll have something to compare against, and you'll feel more comfortable saying no or pushing back on the price.
If you have the time, talk to the other two dealers first before you commit to anything. If you can visit them, that would be best. That way you'll have something to compare against, and you'll feel more comfortable saying no or pushing back on the price.
Never talk monthly payment. That's where they back the max price out to match a pmt. $ if they need to they tack on an extra year to drop pmt 50 bucks.
ALWAYS GO FOR OUT THE DOOR PRICE.
I walk in talking minimum down so there is no Gap insurance required ( if you have to buy Gap you are not putting enough down and shouldnt be in that price range), so they shoot for lowest finance rate, tell me I need another thousand or two to close the deal, then once it comes to writing the check I drop an extra 20% down.
ALWAYS GO FOR OUT THE DOOR PRICE.
I walk in talking minimum down so there is no Gap insurance required ( if you have to buy Gap you are not putting enough down and shouldnt be in that price range), so they shoot for lowest finance rate, tell me I need another thousand or two to close the deal, then once it comes to writing the check I drop an extra 20% down.
Or seriously shop somewhere else.
Also when I was looking at 2023's vs 2024's I actually would have saved money on a 24. But I was comparing loaded versions of the Sport S and Willys.
Keep in mind that you can add thousands to the price with options from LED lights to heated seats, premium sound, convenience or tech packages etc. The packages changed for 24 but many of the same items are available, just in different combinations.
Also when I was looking at 2023's vs 2024's I actually would have saved money on a 24. But I was comparing loaded versions of the Sport S and Willys.
Keep in mind that you can add thousands to the price with options from LED lights to heated seats, premium sound, convenience or tech packages etc. The packages changed for 24 but many of the same items are available, just in different combinations.
When it comes to shopping CDJR dealers these days it's like picking who to vote for, the lessor of the evils. LOL
The monthly payment talks is how they make their money, by convincing you to pay their price but focusing on getting you comfortable with a monthly number, generally by simply extending the loan term (this results in you paying more in total over the life of the loan).
When you sit down with the salesperson, just tell them, I'm not talking monthly payments, I'm not negotiating terms right now, we are going to talk out-the-door price. You will probably have to reiterate that 2 or 3 times. Last time I told them on the third time, look, start talking total numbers or I'm going somewhere else - we're not talking payments. That finally got their attention.
Just don't be bullied, you have the money, so ask for what you want and don't be afraid to decline their BS.
Wow!!! $499 doc fee, that is ridiculous! Something between $50 and $150 is reasonable. It's simply a fee the dealer chargers for them to file the paperwork with the DMV.
The $699 connect, $169 nitrogen, and $499 tint are know as dealer add ons. They provide no valve but represents a huge profit for the dealer.
This offer is a pretty typical starting offer. This represents a very good deal for the dealer. This is definitely not a good deal.
Have the dealer add-ons removed and ask him to mark which of the chargers are legally required by law and which ones are dealer charges. Things like AZ Air Compliance, Tire Fee, Registration, are probably legally required fees. Things like postage, doc fee, etc are dealer chargers.
Subtract the dealer add-ons and the dealer fees, that should be your max offer, $46,928. This would be full MSRP out-the-door price. Anytime you pay MSRP it is not a good deal, I'm not saying you shouldn't pay MSRP, just don't consider it a good deal. I recently purchased a Chevy Colorado and basically paid sticker, tax, reg, and $85 doc fee. Not a good beal but not a bad deal. I could have tired to negotiated for maybe $3k off sticker, but inventory in SoCal for the trim level was very low. So getting at MSRP seemed fair.
There where some posts with financing advice. One thing I would like to add. Know your total financing cost. Say the loan is for $36,928, after $15k down. Your financing cost, aka interest paid, at 7.8% at 60 months would be about $5k. Making your monthly about $698. Dealer like talking monthly because it's so easy to hide the true cost.
My best advice. You are going against a seasoned car sales person and you are not. Do not pretend to be, do not be afraid to ask questions, and definitely don't fake understanding anything. Sometimes, I will even ask for clarification for something I think I understand. Helps me gauge the other person. It's perfectly acceptable to ask for a moment to process everything and Google everything they told you. You are not the expert in this transaction but you can control the situation. Don't tell them you're a novice buyer, just ask questions.
Good luck!!
The $699 connect, $169 nitrogen, and $499 tint are know as dealer add ons. They provide no valve but represents a huge profit for the dealer.
This offer is a pretty typical starting offer. This represents a very good deal for the dealer. This is definitely not a good deal.
Have the dealer add-ons removed and ask him to mark which of the chargers are legally required by law and which ones are dealer charges. Things like AZ Air Compliance, Tire Fee, Registration, are probably legally required fees. Things like postage, doc fee, etc are dealer chargers.
Subtract the dealer add-ons and the dealer fees, that should be your max offer, $46,928. This would be full MSRP out-the-door price. Anytime you pay MSRP it is not a good deal, I'm not saying you shouldn't pay MSRP, just don't consider it a good deal. I recently purchased a Chevy Colorado and basically paid sticker, tax, reg, and $85 doc fee. Not a good beal but not a bad deal. I could have tired to negotiated for maybe $3k off sticker, but inventory in SoCal for the trim level was very low. So getting at MSRP seemed fair.
There where some posts with financing advice. One thing I would like to add. Know your total financing cost. Say the loan is for $36,928, after $15k down. Your financing cost, aka interest paid, at 7.8% at 60 months would be about $5k. Making your monthly about $698. Dealer like talking monthly because it's so easy to hide the true cost.
My best advice. You are going against a seasoned car sales person and you are not. Do not pretend to be, do not be afraid to ask questions, and definitely don't fake understanding anything. Sometimes, I will even ask for clarification for something I think I understand. Helps me gauge the other person. It's perfectly acceptable to ask for a moment to process everything and Google everything they told you. You are not the expert in this transaction but you can control the situation. Don't tell them you're a novice buyer, just ask questions.
Good luck!!
As others have mentioned they talk monthly payments to screw you. They want to get you into a monthly payment that you are "comfortable with" but will extend out the years. I have seen people give a dealership a number and the dealership will extend the payment out for 84 or more months and tack on thousands of extras the person didn't even know they had totalling over 10 grand because the payment was close to what they said. It's all a scam to take advantage of unknowing customers and but make you feel all warm and fuzzy about the deal. The dealership is following the playbook to a T and your guy seems like a pro. Best thing you did was not buy same day and come here to ask questions. If you were in Wisconsin I would offer to go with you, I hate that dealerships treat people this way, it's so slimy.
That seems like a lot of $ for a 2 door sport.
You need to compare used - 2021 and newer in your area. I'd also look at Gladiators. Jeep was seriously discounting them recently.
Tip whatever Jeep you buy make sure it has air conditioning on the window sticker and in the vehicle. A/C is optional in Jeep Wranglers, even in AZ.
You need to compare used - 2021 and newer in your area. I'd also look at Gladiators. Jeep was seriously discounting them recently.
Tip whatever Jeep you buy make sure it has air conditioning on the window sticker and in the vehicle. A/C is optional in Jeep Wranglers, even in AZ.
No longer. It became standard even in the base Sport in the last few years.
Don't know if that was a mid year change or earlier but it's listed as standard for 23 and 24.
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