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JK Engine Replacement Thread (Fraser Engines)

4.4K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  Cort Evans  
#1 ·
New jeep owner. bought 09 jeep with 219k miles on it. New transmission from previous owner. Drove it about 200 miles and noticed a miss. I went to change spark plugs and cross threaded one of the heads. O'rielly's gave me wrong spark plugs and took blame for it and actually paid for a new head and gaskets. i put it on engine and now the car smokes at start up only. I already budgeted for a new engine since it had that kind of mileage on it so i went ahead and ordered a new engine for it. shopped around and liked what i heard about fraser so i picked them. below will be the time line of were i am now.

07/11/25 – Order Summary & Thoughts

I placed an order for a replacement engine for my Jeep Wrangler 3.8L. The order was initially submitted by a salesman, and I received a callback shortly after to finalize everything. I was told the charge would be finalized Monday. Then a few hours later received an email today with a detailed cost breakdown and a receipt showing the charge to my bank card. So not monday but fast i guess isn't horrible.
Hopefully shipping is just as fast. Salesman said it should ship in a few days after payment.
Breakdown of Costs:

$2,955.00 – Long Block (Includes Oil Pump)
I chose the Fraser Advantage option based on the salesman’s recommendation. It includes all the necessary gaskets and comes with upgraded rods and pistons. I confirmed it comes with upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, oil pan, timing cover gaskets.
He said nothing else would be needed for installation — we’ll see. The rods are known weak points on this engine, but I got 220k miles out of my original motor, so if I can get that much again, I’ll be satisfied.

$470.00 – Core Charge
I have 90 days to return the old engine. If I don’t, they’ll charge more, though I’m not sure how much as i forgot to ask and it wasn't provided. Hoping I don’t have to find out.

$300.00 – “Tinware” is advertised on website at 249 but was told its really 300. alot of bait and switch and feeling kinda iffy.
This is optional but recommended add-on for this motor. On this engine, the oil pump is built into the timing cover, and replacing it myself would be a real hassle. It has a metal plug that has to be removed and with my luck i would mess it up. the timing cover alone for this motor is like 1500 bucks. For $300, it’s worth having them handle it up front.

$99.00 – Liftgate Fee
Since it’s shipping to a residential address, I need a liftgate to get it off the truck. The salesman said the driver will place it wherever I want, and they’ll also pick it up from wherever I store it when it’s time to return the core. unless you have a forklift i guess you need this and also was told its mandortory for any residental address.

$250.00 – “MOTO” Charge
This one threw me off. The website heavily advertises a $250 discount when you “sign up for mailing list” but in reality, that discount just offsets this MOTO charge. It’s a required $250 fee added to every order — a combination of a 3% convenience fee, a commission, and a processing fee. I don’t necessarily mind paying it, but it’s misleading. The $250 “discount” is just a marketing gimmick, and in my opinion, it’s poorly explained on the website.

250.00 - shipping fee

$238.33 – Sales Tax

So, although the engine is advertised at $2,955 (on sale), my total came out to $4,312.33. Assuming I get the $470 core charge refunded, that brings my actual cost down to $3,842.33.

Additional Notes & Observations

The salesman I worked with was great — very knowledgeable and easy to talk to. He answered all my questions and got the order placed without any issues.

One thing to point out: the core charge waiver advertised across their website gives the impression that anyone can skip the core charge if they return the old engine within 14 days. However, according to what I was told, this waiver only applies if you’re shipping the engine to a professional shop for installation. Definitely a detail that should be made clearer on their site.

Another important note — my salesman mentioned that I could purchase the extended warranty within 60 days of the original order, and that it would still cover the engine even if I installed it myself. However, that directly contradicts what I read in the official warranty documentation:

"Standard Warranty, NFW, and NFWG programs are ONLY valid if the original installation was performed by a Licensed Automotive Repair Facility (LARF).
NFW and NFWG programs must be purchased at the time of sale; there is no grace period to purchase either program."

So now I’m unsure what’s accurate — I plan to call the salesman back to try to add the warranty and will confirm what’s actually allowed. Hopefully, I can use the core charge refund to cover the cost of the warranty.

7/14/25 - Received the invoice to sign today. Also noticed it says "
3. WAIVING THE FEE: ONCE WE SEE THAT YOU’VE PLACED YOUR ORDER ONLINE, THE $250 FEE WILL BE AUTOMATICALLY WAIVED FROM YOUR INVOICE" which is strange cause you can't order online. you can place the "order" online but it really isn't ordered till the salesman calls you.

7/21/25 - No word on shipping. salesman told me it would ship in 2-3 days. just sent a text msg to the number listed on website. Received a call from Fraser saying because of the timing chain cover and oil pan extra i added that i am about a week out before they ship the engine.

7/30/25 - Got a call this morning about delivery scheduled for tomorrow. Also got a email from shipping company with tracking and another copy of my invoice.

7/31/25 - Got engine in today. Delivery was awesome. Great driver and placed the engine in my garage for me. First issue i found was there was no oil pan. Even though my recipe said i was charged 300 for oil pan and timing chain cover. Called Fraser and come to find out oil pan is not included with this engine. Mistype on invoice.
Found gaskets in my case that appear to be everything i will need. i don't see the upper oil pan gasket but i will know more once i pull the old engine. Timing chain cover bolts are used and rusty. i mean at least paint them.
Second issue i found was the head bolts are corroded like they are used. And i was always told not to reuse head bolts and for 4300 bucks why would you? Called fraser again and was forwarded to someone that asked me to hold then forwarded me to voicemail. I left msg with issue and am waiting a callback.
Chip called me back. Explained head bolt don't' get replaced unless they are un-useable. i guess i am old school and go by the idea of never reuse head bolts as they stretch when torqued. He said that was incorrect and those are fine. I might take a wire brush and at least remove the corrosion from the heads so it doesn't end up in the engine.
Kinda disappointing something as cheap as head bolts would not be replaced in a 4k motor. This is their premium motor to from what i was told when bought. Engine is on stand but i must wait to pull my old engine till the 11th of Aug. I don't' want to be car less just yet and i expect this job to take a weekend. i did order some new oil pan bolts as for some reason my old engine is missing some and i also ordered a swivel 18mm ratchet wrench to remove the top bell housing bolts. Trying to have everything ready when i go to pull my engine. Already have new injectors/plugs. new water pump, new o2 sensors, New harmonic balancer as i heard they sometimes break when you try to remove. i will return if i end up no needing but i don't want to take any chances.

I will update this post when i begin this project.
 
#5 ·
Good luck. I went through two powersource rebuilds. Both garbage. I did get my money back. Bought a reman from chrysler. Lasted 2800 miles and a rod broke. Found a crate engine for a charger. Brand new. It runs great. Have about 6 K on it.Knowing what I know now I would have rebuilt my original engine.
 
#6 ·
I went this route on a 2013 JK Rubicon, but should have went to Fraser Engines. Instead I went to a rebuilder on eBay. Paid a fortune to get it installed, and its been problem-on-problem because it was rebuilt with Made in China replacement parts. First hit was oil-pump (made in China), then cam (china), still throws codes but useable (at least $6-$7K for this $3300 long block so far. Hopefully Fraser Engines doesn't use China knockoff parts? Good luck.
 
#7 ·
I replaced my 2014 engine with 110,000 miles on it. Let me rephrase, I had my engine replaced. I'm too old to tackle that kind of work. After shopping around, local and internet, I settled on a Bow engine. It seemed to be a go to company for the shops around me. I'm not a fan of dealerships so I bypassed them. It cost $4,300 shipping included, no tax (NH). A $650 refund if you send the old core back, my core had a hole thru it so no $650 for me. Bow's claim is the replace/update all the commonly known parts to fail on that model motor. It came with a 3 year, 100,000 mile "warranty". They will supply another motor and pay to have it installed. Total cost including the cost of the engine was $9,000 using a local repair shop. No problems yet, I've gone only about 4k miles. I bought the Jk used for $15,000 cash, a few thousand miles before the engine seized. With that kind of money put out for the Jeep I felt another $9k was the rout to go. It looks brand new. I'm thinking it was in an accident at some point and was repaired and repainted. Everything underneath was tight and in good shape. No rattles or shakes overall it drove good. So I gambled when I bought it. I knew about that model engine and it's failures/short comings. I figured that it was a crap shoot and would in time have to replace the engine. I didn't plan on that short of time. I kept my '97 Tj, I put no major repairs into the motor, it has 233,000 mils on it. Rust is my on;y problem with it. I'm putting on (yes me) the 3rd set of front fenders and my frame is more welds than frame but no engine problems. Good luck to all having to change out your engine. Hopefully it will be the last major engine repair we'll have to do.
 
#9 ·
Came across this thread and wanted to ask for advice. My 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport (that I bought July of 2024), is just over 60k miles (63,800ish). Took it in for someone to check the check engine light, was told it needed a tune up. That didn't resolve the check engine light, kept getting a misfire code on cylinder 6; turns out cylinder 6 couldn't maintain proper compression, and was told I needed a new engine. Had a second opinion, and same result. They tried reaching out to Chrysler, and they said they wouldn't cover any of it. I have been quoted around $11,000 for a new engine from the dealership, which seems absolutely insane to me. Then I did some research and saw where some folks have put Fraser engines in as replacements. Have those who installed Fraser engines liked the crate motor? Any issues?
 
#10 ·
I didn't replace with a Fraser motor not for any particular reason. I used a Bow motor. The motor was $4,300 the install was $4,700. So far, no problems with it. Bow's claim is they replace the known problems with upgrades. It came with a 3-year 100.000 mile "warranty". They refund $650 when you send your core back. I couldn't mine had a hole in it. Hope this helps I'm sure you'll get a lot of good advice on this forum. Just a question, did you buy from a dealer and was the engine light on? If they reset the engine light w/out fixing it the light would come back on when you drive over 50 miles. If so you may have some recourse with the dealer. My engine sized after driving 1,000 miles. I couldn't get anything from the dealer. Nor did I expect to based on the problem and miles. Good luck on your "quest".