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Looking at a 2006 Unlimited LWB

7.6K views 34 replies 21 participants last post by  Mr. Bills  
#1 ·
Hi all, new forum member here. I’ve never owned a Wrangler but have loved them all my life. I did own a Cherokee from 1998 to about 2000 and loved that truck. I’m looking at finally getting that Wrangler I’ve always wanted and have found a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited LWB with a little under 48k miles for around $19,500. I’ve always heard that I should get 2006 or before because of the I6 and the fact that 2007 or newer has excess useless weight built in. I am wondering what everyone’s thoughts are on the price and this particular make and whether indeed I should stick with 2006 or before? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
2007+ is just a whole different generation of wrangler. Id highly reccomend you test drive both if you are even considering a JK. Ive had both JK engines with the 6spd and 5spd auto. I now own a 5spd TJ. I loved both JKs and love my TJ.

The I6 is great and can have a very long service life with minimal work. It is NOT as reliable as something like the old toyota 22re, but it is very durable and simple/cheap to maintain.

19.5 seems a bit high to me but I dont follow the LJ market as closely. I think $18 is closer to what it would cost in my area
 
#4 ·
I have an 06. I specifically wanted that model and years for a couple of reasons.

The extra length behind the rear seat is a big deal. If you have someone riding in the back like a kid it makes packing up for a short trip possible. Three small suitcases and various bags would not be possible without out that space. Or at least more challenging. As stated before pretty easy to maintain. Mine does shift funny in reverse but I have learned what to feel for.

I love mine but I'm sure a JK is a little bit of a smoother ride for a daily driver. I got mine about two years ago for around 15. Great mileage but I would say a little high in price.
 
#5 ·
Dont worry too much about opda. Just plan on replacing it. It is an easy DIY replacement. As with any 12+ year old vehicle, it can quickly nickel and dime you if you use a mechanic for all repairs. If you do things yourself, you will be graced by a large engine bay to make working easy, and very cheap parts
 
#6 ·
OPDA was mainly on vehicles built Oct 2004 through Feb 2005. I am the original owner of a 2005 LJ, currently with 141K miles. Mine was built in Aug 2004. I have never experienced any OPDA issues. I have the 4.0L and 42RLE auto. Aside from upshifting too soon under normal driving (IMHO), the trans has been good. A/C needs recharging. My younger son has a TJ with the 4.0L and NSG 6-speed. For a Mercedes-designed and built trans, it sucks, compared to my other son's Toyota Tacoma's 4WD 5-speed and 3.4L. I think the 2004 and earlier NV trans were better.
 
#8 ·
As you just learned, the LJ was available from 2004-2006, with model years 2005 and 06 having the option of a manual 6 speed transmission.

That $19k price could be high or low depending on the LJ. Is it a base model or Rubicon or Sahara? Condition of the LJ, do you have a link to the one you are looking at?

I have seen LJs as low as $9k and up to $30k, and higher based on the mods/build. If the one you describe is a Rubicon then that is a solid price. If it is a base model then probably priced high, but again, we need to see a link to the jeep.
 
#9 ·
Price OK if you're OK

If it's nice, and you want it, the price isn't too high. I shopped for a year. Wanted an LJ that hadn't been messed with, in other words everything factory original.
Found one with 76K, asking 16,900. Negotiated and bought for 15,200.
I would have paid more. I did see one with 45K miles, listed at 18,900 but it sold in 2 days before I could go see it. Low mileage LJ's are scarce and when you find the right one, its worth what you pay for it.
 
#11 ·
To OP:

Fair market value depends upon many factors. We don't have enough information to comment on the $19,500 asking price for the LJ you are considering.

Many posters in the Internet Jeep forums will tell you that the price is too high and that they paid thousands less for their LJ, but such claims are meaningless without full details of condition, mileage, upgrades and downgrades, rust or the absence thereof, etc., etc.

Starting about this time last year I began actively searching for the "right" rust free LJ Rubicon in excellent condition within 1,500 miles of my home. At the time the price range for acceptable candidates ranged from $17,000-$26,000. Rubicons were approximately $6,000-$8,000 more than non-Rubicons. The good Rubicons were all $17,000+ with the very good ones $20,000 and up. Pristine examples with hard tops, properly done suspensions, quality aftermarket steering, good quality bumpers and high end wheels and tires were $23,000 and up. I would expect prices in the East and Midwest to be lower due to rust issues.

You can find LJ's at the lower end of the scale but they tend to have been "rode hard and put away wet." My advice is to silence the voice in your head screaming "but I can fix that" and only buy a rust free example with no issues. Never buy a jeep with cheap or poorly done modifications. Best would be one that has always been garaged and never taken off road.

I found mine in June 2017 about 750 miles from my home. I won't say how much I paid other than it was a lot less than the seller wanted and slightly more than I had hoped to negotiate. Here is how it looked the day I purchased it:

Image
 
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#34 ·
Very elaborate post, and commenting on other posters claiming

Many posters in the Internet Jeep forums will tell you that the price is too high and that they paid thousands less for their LJ, but such claims are meaningless without full details of condition, mileage, upgrades and downgrades, rust or the absence thereof, etc., etc.
Yet, you post yours and then don't provide a cost you paid. So basically doing the same thing.. your information is useless without the price.
 
#12 ·
All 05-06 have a problematic OPDA but as long as replaced before cam gear damage an easy fix

Almost all if not all 06 auto will develop a tranny shift issue that is not perminately fixable

Temporary relief with PCM/TCM reset lets plagued owners sell it but as it is a inherent issue with PCM and there are no new PCM buy an 06 auto TJ or LJ knowing you are getting an unfixable lemon and pay that price only if you are nuts

Find an 04 and you will be much happier


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
#14 ·
All 05-06 have a problematic OPDA . . .

Almost all if not all 06 auto will develop a tranny shift issue that is not perminately fixable. . . .
Those are gross exaggerations.

The ODPA issue is not only easily and inexpensively fixed with an aftermarket pump, the issue affects a low percentage of jeeps from those model years. There is evidence that the issue may largely be limited to TJ's/LJ's produced between 10/04 and 2/05.

The hard shifting issue in the '05-'06 TJ's/LJ's with the 42RLE automatic transmission is also limited to a small percentage of jeeps produced during those years. "Almost all if not all" is a baseless statement. If one counts the number of people who have actually experienced the issue and posted about it on the Internet, the number is so small as to be almost statistically insignificant in relation to the production numbers for those years. It also doesn't appear to be pandemic anywhere other than on the Internet.

The hard shifting when cold has been traced to faulty ECM/PCMs, and although there have been reports from individuals that no fix they tried was permanent, there are reports of permanent fixes. Bottom line is that the issue does exist in some '05-'06 Wranglers with automatic transmissions, one doesn't want to buy one of the affected jeeps, so one needs to do their due diligence in the evaluation of a potential purchase.

The hard shifting between 1-2 only seems to occur when the transmission is cold and many who experience the issue simply let their transmission fluid warm up in the morning before starting out. Regardless, a savvy jeep shopper who wants to minimize the chance of buying a lemon will insist that the jeep have been sitting overnight before they start the engine for the test drive, which unmasks all sorts of ills, and carefully examine service records for transmission work and ECM/PCM replacement.

Happy jeep shopping.
 
#17 ·
Nope if jeep made a better OPDA at the end of the run everyone would not have gone to aftermarket OPDA with the factory sensor. . . .
The point is that only a small percentage of '05 and '06 TJ's and LJ's have suffered from the OPDA issue, not "all" of them as you have incorrectly claimed. Similarly, not "everyone" who owns an '05 or '06 has gone to an aftermarket OPDA.
 
#16 ·
I bought a 2005 LJ with 25,000 miles on it for about the price you paid. It was completely stock and had a very clean frame and body. The market value at the time in my area seemed close enough and it was exactly what I was looking for in condition and I got lucky with the color.

I researched issues with the OPDA and the NSG370 6 speed before buying. In the end I asked myself 3 questions.

1. If the OPDA failed and worst case scenario I had to have the engine rebuilt or replaced, would I?

2. If the pricy 6 speed failed would I be willing to have it rebuilt, replaced, or replaced with an alternative manual transmission?

3. Was I willing to do as much of the mechanical work and upkeep myself as I could?


The answer to those questions was and still is yes.

I replaced the OPDA first thing and checked for unusual cam wear. None present at the time.

My transmission used to occasionally pop out of first until I figured out the correct way to work with it. In my case that means never shifting into first unless at a complete stop. For now it doesn’t do it anymore. If it starts again someday I’ll refer to question number 2.

My point is, be realistic about what you want and what you are willing and financially able to do. Don’t rush a decision or purchase if you don’t have too. I got lucky and found mine within 100 miles, but I was doing a national search and was willing to go a lot further away if necessary and to wait longer. I did drive a few that I walked away from before finding mine.
 
#19 ·
I bought my third wrangler last week. It’s a 2004 unlimited with 39k miles, auto, soft top, 3 inch lift, 33 in tires, viper alarm , por frame coated and a remote start(which I’ll never use) for $16k. The Jeep is in really good condition with only 1 quarter size rust spot on the fender. Maybe that will give you some perspective on the price.
 
#21 ·
I'm looking to buy a 2004 LJ with 125K miles auto hard top for $8K, good buy?
 
#30 ·
Stop it. If all you can do is inflame the discussion and exhaust blowhard opinions about other peoples' vehicles, avatars, or place of residence, take it elsewhere. Some of us are sick of hearing your crap.

The reality is the 05 and 06 LJ is a great Jeep with a few minor issues like almost every other Jeep. The only real difference is which component needs upgrading. Whether it's axles, brakes, radiators, heater cores, windshield bolts, wiper motors, catalytic converters, OPDAs, 6 speed manuals, PCMs, drive shafts, suspensions, soft tops, axles, engines, transfer cases, seats or safety harnesses, it's always something that needs an upgrade. In every year.

You've had some good opinions on here in the past. Stick with that instead of allowing your jealousy of what someone else has morph into a tirade of nonsense about their Jeep being a boat anchor. Or of yours being the greatest thing since sliced bread. Discussion, fine. But you're just trolling to start a fight.
 
#26 ·
Thanks all! Wow a ton of great advice here. Here is the link for it as an earlier poster suggested, probably should have included it in the first one. One thing I’ll add for context is I’m not real mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles. That’s not to say I can’t learn or take an auto class at the local CC but for now I’ve been going with a local mechanic. Again I really appreciate all the comments, fat surpassed my expectations.

https://www.durhamvw.com/inventory/...ntory/used-2006-jeep-wrangler-unlimited-lwb-4wd-sport-utility-1j4fa44s96p703018
 
#31 ·
Looks like a nice Jeep, but make sure it's been well taken care of. The mileage is great. The look is too. And it appears to be stock, which is desirable. Especially if you want to do any build on it. Starting with a good platform, or you can even leave it stock and just drive it.

Check the title for salvage or accident. See if you can tell how many owners. Check the frame and undercarriage for rust, and make sure everything works well. Drive it at speed to make sure no death wobble, and you're likely in pretty good shape. Take it to a mechanic if there is any doubt at all. Scrapes on the underside indicate it's been dragged through rocks or hills. Start it cold one morning before you buy it to make sure it's not making any odd noises or vibes. Then you know whether you have a good solid starting point.

I think I'd pay no more than $16-17k for this. Mine was $16k about 3 years ago with the Rubicon package and death wobble, and 76k miles. If not this one, sooner or later you'll find one that's in the right range.
 
#27 ·
The price seems a little high (to me), you can always try to negotiate the price down some. But as mentioned if you have looked at other jeeps then you should have a good gauge of how nice this one is, and if you love it and can really afford to spend that much (plus some on future upgrades) then buy it and enjoy it.

Since you are not very mechanical at this time then it is probably worth spending some cash and have a good 4x4 shop check it over very thoroughly.
As mentioned the OPDA isn't expensive item and a good safety measure so might be worth investing in that fix.
Just my 2cents
 
#28 ·
Durham/NC LJ's

Im in NC as well SoPo area. I've been dabbling around the market looking at possibly buying an LJ but only manual kind. Anyway, non-Rubi with mileage like that I have seen around the same price 18/19K but those with close to 100K I've seen prices ranging from 12-15K. I would personally look at buying something below that price with a little more mileage. But good luck and hope you find what your looking for. If I didn't have so much invested in my TJ, it would have been replaced by an LJ a bit ago.
 
#29 ·
From the pictures it looks like someone did a little work to it, added the tow hitch, the side steps and an aftermarket radio.
The chrome grill, silver surrounds on the dash and the two tone seats, and a few other little things is a special build package.
The low mileage is good. Look underneath to see how clean it is, rusty, check the top of radiator to make sure the plastic is not separating from the body of the core, and see if drivetrain is original.
About 8 weeks ago I got a clean rust free 2006 LJ with a replaced transmission, drives fine though, 166k miles, soft top only, with all those trim package features. I paid $12,9k, but the average for the LJ's in Houston area at the time was averaging right around $16K.
 

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#33 ·
OP, if you click on the little CarFax icon on the listing it will give you the CarFax report. You can then print it out if you desire.

Three owners - sold first in Ohio (be darned sure to check the underside for rust) and registered there until Jan, 2011 when it went to a car dealer (TI?) and then was registered in TN in Jul, 2011 then registered there and then shows up at a dealer in NC (TI?) and registered in NC in Jul, 2017 and then shows back up 8 months later at this VW dealer.

I would not take too much in the fact that it was traded in 8 months after it was bought, after all a Wranger is not for everyone. We put up with their quirks because we love the quirks, but not everyone does. (We pity them). Of course for 18 years between my YJ and when I got my TJ, I was the one receiving the pity.

If the underside looks at good as the topside, jump on it. They are too rare to not grab one when you can. Like the morning I casually browsed over to my dealers website and saw the '03 Rubicon. It took me 11 days to get it. I had my financing in hand when I went down there that afternoon, but I was second in line. I had to wait for the first guy (who wanted to give it to his 16 year old son) to flame out. They have not had another clean TJ like that in the last 4 years, but then we are down in flyover country.

Check the underside thoroughly. Don't just get down and glance at it. If they will put it on a lift for you, all the better, but if not wear clothes you can get down with and check it out. Take a flashlight and a small to medium screwdriver so you can pick at any rust you see. If anything is coated or flaking, bad sign. If it is covered with black undercoating, thank them and walk away. The only ones who undercoat these days are those wanting to hide something.