Welcome to the forum.

According to my ’05 FSM the data link is powered by fuse 26 (I think listed as IOD) in the PDC but also powers the cluster & dome/courtesy lights & under hood light. If everything else on the circuit is working it would likely be a bad data port or wire (the yellow/brown one) to it.

The fuse to kill the dome/courtesy lights when the doors are off is fuse 4 in the fuse block behind the glove box. Pulling it opens the ground path so the lights stay off.

Get a free pdf download of the owner’s manual at jeep.com under the owner’s tab in the manuals section. Good info in it.

 

Welcome to the forum.

According to my ’05 FSM the data link is powered by fuse 26 (I think listed as IOD) in the PDC but also powers the cluster & dome/courtesy lights & under hood light. If everything else on the circuit is working it would likely be a bad data port or wire (the yellow/brown one) to it.

The fuse to kill the dome/courtesy lights when the doors are off is fuse 4 in the fuse block behind the glove box. Pulling it opens the ground path so the lights stay off.

Get a free pdf download of the owner’s manual at jeep.com under the owner’s tab in the manuals section. Good info in it.

Thank you for the information. Solved my problem.

 

Thank you for the welcome and the information. I do not have the manual so I will be going to jeep.com to download and the engine bay lights, dome and courtesy lights are not working and Fuse #4 is installed and is good. I will direct my attention to fuse 26 in the PDC. Thank you for the reply!

 

I should have said that fuse 26 in powered from fuse 15 which is the IOD fuse & may have been removed & moved into its IOD storage socket next to its normal position. The purpose of that is explained in the manual. If fuse 26 is good check 15.

From the owner’s manual:

VEHICLE STORAGE
If you are leaving your vehicle dormant for more than 21
days you may want to take steps to protect your battery.
You may:
• Remove Cartridge fuse #15 in the Power Distribution
Center labeled Ignition-Off Draw (IOD).
• Store the removed IOD fuse in the Power Distribution
Center location #11 labeled “IOD Storage.”
• Or, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.


I will say my ’05 often goes 3 weeks without being driven or started & I never pull the IOD & it always starts right up. I did not even think about that possibility but worth checking since you just got it & the previous owner may have moved it.

 

I did check fuse 26 and the fuse checked good and I was back to square one. Without a manual, I'm struggling and there is limited info online about this. I will turn my attention to fuse 15 and check it's location. I'm finding all kinds of interesting things the previous owner has done, haha!!!! Thank you again for your insight. I will let you know how it goes.

 

RUBI 4 MY MRS,
I cant begin to thank you enough for the information. The IOD fuse (15) was completely missing from the PDC. Bought a fuse on the way home, threw it in and magically everything is working as it should (thankfully). Got the Superchip programmed the way I want it and all is well!!! Thanks again!!!

 

That is good news. Thanks for reporting findings, it may help the next guy searching here.

 

Great thread! Just went the "no Fuse" flashing on my dash and could not figure it out. You solved my problem and I appreciate it.

 

Glad to hear it helped. Thank for posting.

 

I’m stumped on this one. My OBD2 and dome lights aren’t working, and I’ve got the “no fuse” error on the odometer, but fuse 26 and 15 are both fine (even tested them with a multimeter). I cleaned the connections for those fuses (didn’t seem corroded or dirty, but couldn’t hurt). Still nothing. I’m stumped, y’all… what is there upstream (or downstream) of the fuse box that could be causing this?

 

I’m stumped on this one. My OBD2 and dome lights aren’t working, and I’ve got the “no fuse” error on the odometer, but fuse 26 and 15 are both fine (even tested them with a multimeter). I cleaned the connections for those fuses (didn’t seem corroded or dirty, but couldn’t hurt). Still nothing. I’m stumped, y’all… what is there upstream (or downstream) of the fuse box that could be causing this?

Welcome to the Forum!

 

What year do you have?

Posting that & other basic info like engine & trans helps since many things, especially the wiring changed over the 10 year TJ run.

 

Thanks, sorry, should have included details. 2005 TJU, manual 6 spd, 60k mi. no work done recently before this happened. I did the radio like 3 years ago.

 

OK, so being a 2005 means the same fuse locations as the OP’s ’06.

Here is the FSM page for ’05 showing the circuit. The first place to check is if the dome/courtesy lights are coming on when you open the door.

If no, then check if the yellow/brown wire at the underhood light has 12v power. If no, the problem is between the fuse in the PDC & the light. If you have 12v to the light the rest of the components are inside the cab & can each be checked but the cluster must not be getting power if the “no fuse” is showing.

Post findings.

 

Thank you, this is helpful. No dome lights either, so I’ll check the yellow/brown wire.

 

Just got back from a trip and had a minute to get under the hood - no power at the under hood light, so that narrows it down. Checked for continuity between the Y/B wire in the PDC and the Y/B wire at the light, and there’s none. So am I safe to assume it’s a busted wire somewhere in that bundle between the PDC and the light, or is there something else to check before I start tearing that apart and making a mess?

 

I mean… I’m no expert, but I think I might have found the problem. 😂

 

No, I think you have found the problem. It looks like that is in the harness coming out of the PDC, just about where it passes near the battery, right? That is a known area where battery acid attacks the harness & does that to the various wires. Be sure to inspect all of those. Look for insulation bulging out as acid reacts with the copper inside.

Good work finding that! Thanks for posting results & thanks for the photo.

Here is a recent link where he had the same results from a different initial problem. It was not until post #32 that we found the problem. Look at the wires in the photo.


https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/01-sahara-no-crank-no-start.2463293/

 

That looks like exactly what happened. I soldered in a new wire (cutting out the skanky bits), and it’s all working now. I owe you a beer, sir.

 

Yes, easy fix but can be difficult to find. It looked like other wires might be affected so if any weird wiring problems happen the future remember this one & you will know where to look first. The guy in the link also had a corroded wire but a completely different issue.