I am working on a 1989 and I have no power to the headlight switch. Previous owner ran a wire to the battery and then to the pink wire to the radio, which also goes to the passenger side floor light. I have turn signal's, but no brake, side marker, or headlights. I cant find any cut wires. Really don't want to cobble it.
No power to headlight switch
1 reading
mcmopar
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
In order to open the fuse block you have to disconnect the firewall plug by the brake booster. You can check for power at the red wire at E4. If there's no power there, the problem is between the plug and the starter solenoid. If there is power there the problem will be in the fuse block.
For easier access to the fuse block, I remove the gauge bezel and the tach. Then I can use a long bladed screwdriver to easily reach the two large phillips screws that hold the fuse block to the firewall. I find it's easier to work under the dash when I remove the drivers seat so that I don't have to bend and twist my poor old bod over the door sill. YMMV.
Good Luck, L.M.
For easier access to the fuse block, I remove the gauge bezel and the tach. Then I can use a long bladed screwdriver to easily reach the two large phillips screws that hold the fuse block to the firewall. I find it's easier to work under the dash when I remove the drivers seat so that I don't have to bend and twist my poor old bod over the door sill. YMMV.
Good Luck, L.M.
There's a grid type pattern to how the wires are arranged. It's called a "pinout". Once you pull the engine side of the plug loose (there's a small bolt in the middle) you can see that on one side there should be letters and on the top or bottom you should see numbers. Follow the E row across to the 4 row. That should be a heavy red wire. Use your test light to confirm the E4 terminal is hot.
Let us know what you find.
You may have to wipe off the inside of the plug to see the numbers and letters. They're cast into the outer perimeter of the plug.
What you're doing is quite an adventure into the more detailed aspects of auto mechanics. Don't be shy about asking questions.
To confirm all the information in all the posts above or to aid you in understanding that info, look for a post by Got it at last. In his signature he has a link to Jeep Manuals. Click on that link and then click on the 1987-1988 Factory Service Manual. The index is on the left side and the schematics (along with the alpha-numeric pinout of all the plugs) are at the bottom of the index. 1987-1988 wiring should be the same as 1990.
Good Luck, L.M.
Let us know what you find.
You may have to wipe off the inside of the plug to see the numbers and letters. They're cast into the outer perimeter of the plug.
What you're doing is quite an adventure into the more detailed aspects of auto mechanics. Don't be shy about asking questions.
To confirm all the information in all the posts above or to aid you in understanding that info, look for a post by Got it at last. In his signature he has a link to Jeep Manuals. Click on that link and then click on the 1987-1988 Factory Service Manual. The index is on the left side and the schematics (along with the alpha-numeric pinout of all the plugs) are at the bottom of the index. 1987-1988 wiring should be the same as 1990.
Good Luck, L.M.
So I finally have headlights, and it had to do with the red and white wire at the fusible link at the solenoid. The small green wire had a break in it and would touch when moved just right. Now onto the next problem which is the gauges. Lights come on but oil, and gas peg right as soon as the key is on and the volt reads low, havent run it long enough yet to see if it is accurate. I do have another set of gauges to swap. Thanks for the help.
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
