could have something to do with the aftermarket fan

 

It is the top of the line moshimoto and is running 🤷🏻‍♂️ I might go back and replace with mopar

 

I can't see the mishimoto fan out performing the stock JK fan. We have a very good fan on these vehicles.

 

I could be wrong, but I though temps pushing 240 were "normal" and not a cause for concern.

 

Never broke 210 ever then one day constantly at 230-240, even with everything upgraded

 

What is the ambient temperature?

 

65

 

I would also make sure you have no air in the system.

 

Yea it could be air in the system but you said that this happened out of nowhere. I don’t think it’s likely that enough air entered the system to suddenly cause the temp to get so high.
Things you could try: 1) try to get air out 2) coolant temp sensor (not sure on how to troubleshoot this. You can throw a new part on it but there may be a way to troubleshoot it by measuring its resistance). 3. If you have an IR thermometer, you can measure temperatures throughout the coolant path and maybe even the headers. You may be able to find hot spots by doing this.

good luck, keep us posted

 

No not the air because I have the exact same problem and we did the air and it was after a spark plunge /think thats when we tried an gen radiator and fan, im in La right now and red overheating light is on and gage is way to the right. pist how can no one know the fix : )

 

It could. Air may have been trapped in the heater core and then finally made its way through the system. Additionally, have you determined if the fan is actually coming on and if so, around what temp?

 

Burped the system for about 45 minutes tonight. Didn’t change anything

 

Have you checked for a blown head gasket? I’ve seen numerous occasions where exhaust gasses leak into the cooling system causing the temps to spike. A CO tester at the radiator fill will rule that possibility. Test while hot and coolant is flowing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

testers are cheap too. I hate seeing people spend so much money swapping parts. there are ways to diagnose just about anything and usually cheaper than loading the parts cannon and firing away!!

Combustion Leak Detector

Amazing deals on this Combustion Leak Detector at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

GF is having the same issues so I’ll follow along

 

Issue fixed!!
Update - did CO leak test no leak.

I removed the moshimoto fan and reinstalled a brand new stock fan (lots of modification needed to fit with the RIPP SC).

drained the cooling system and then refilled.

burped the system and continued to burp the system while running heat at full blast (believe this was the final fix)

thanks for the help guys

 

Glad you got it fixed!

 

Just for future reference, sometimes the engine oil cooler filter adapter housing assembly get hairline cracks that can cause overheating. These are made of plastic.

 

I'm not losing any fluid

 

If your consistently in the 240's there should be some concern. If you spiking into the 240's especially when climbing steep hills it is not an issue unless you hit 250 (limp mode).

Typically I see in 100 degree temps 217 in stop and go traffic. On the freeway 212 or lower. Climbing mountain passes it will spike into the 220's but then come back down into the two teens and lower. But I also have a larger than stock radiator and a manual, don't have a tranny cooler throwing 150 air temps at the radiator and the AC condenser adding even more heat.

Probably the biggest thing you can do is don't run your engine at or near 100% load. When your engine load is that high you are producing a ton of heat. Better to downshift to a lower gear, slow down and keep temps in check. These engines will run 3000 rpm's all day long and keep their cool. I did a test for another person here and from a complete stop climbed the pass near my house, 6% grade, 70 degree day. It spike into the 220's, most getting up to speed, 70 mph. I already know that the only way I climb the pass is in 5th gear, 3200 rpms. By the time I reached the top my coolant was 205 degrees.

 

So air in the system was the issue? I think this is the biggest contributor to overheating based on what I have read here.

 

We just went through this same situation with the same symptoms. Thermostat replacement was the fix.

 

I have been experiencing overheating 230-240 temps at highway speeds. I read the forum and replaced everything that I could find that would be causing the issue. Fan, radiator (went moshimoto), radiator tubes, thermostat (replaced with ripp), water pump, coolant, air filter, sc oil, engine oil.

I am currently at a loss as I am still experiencing the same overheating. I never had over heating issues until one day driving back home from work … now nothing seems to fix it. Jeep runs fine and isn’t running any codes (other than aftermarket fan now). My intake temperature is normal, all other vitals are fine. This wasn’t a slow growing overheating issue but instead just one day started.

there is no murkiness in the oil (eliminating head gasket issue). Before having a shop tear apart my engine I wanted to see if there were any other suggestions.

16 rubi Jeep has 45k miles, ripp supercharged, 5.13 gears.

 

I’m having the same issue on my 2014 JKU with 35” tires. We’re you able to fix?

 

Man I'm having the same issue! i'll try your last attempt that fixed the issue, just ordered some more coolant will be flushing out and burping the system as well as upgrading the hoses since the top hose is a bit collapsed. however, i do have a Moshimoto radiator since the stock one was leaking badly.

 

Welcome to the Forum!
Since your top Radiator hose is a bit collapsed, you need to replace your Radiator cap, with a new MOPAR CAP.

 

I have been experiencing overheating 230-240 temps at highway speeds. I read the forum and replaced everything that I could find that would be causing the issue. Fan, radiator (went moshimoto), radiator tubes, thermostat (replaced with ripp), water pump, coolant, air filter, sc oil, engine oil.

I am currently at a loss as I am still experiencing the same overheating. I never had over heating issues until one day driving back home from work … now nothing seems to fix it. Jeep runs fine and isn’t running any codes (other than aftermarket fan now). My intake temperature is normal, all other vitals are fine. This wasn’t a slow growing overheating issue but instead just one day started.

there is no murkiness in the oil (eliminating head gasket issue). Before having a shop tear apart my engine I wanted to see if there were any other suggestions.

16 rubi Jeep has 45k miles, ripp supercharged, 5.13 gears.

Was your fan LOUD AS HELL like an airplane engine? That is what mine sounds like. Mechanic ignored it but I am wondering if mine is a fan issue as well. I am having the same problem. 2017 JKU

 

Welcome to the Forum!

 

Anddddd..... same issue! 2013 JKU . No engine mods

Replaced (over the course of the last year due to overheating): radiator (Mishimoto standard replacement), water pump, hoses, thermostat(s) - yes, I’ve replaced like 5! replaced the temperature sensor and have flushed (and burped) the coolant a couple times in the process (with Mopar coolant at the correct 50/50 ratio) Did a CO test on the coolant.
Fan runs LOUD when it gets past operating temperature.

Was fine for a couple months and then today decided to overheat on me as I was trying to overtake - 60mph+ hard acceleration.
No other changes in drivability detected – MPG is the same, starts and idles fine, AC/heat work fine, no visible smoke from tailpipe.


I may try reinstalling the original temperature sensor, but apart from that, I am at a loss. Other than perhaps trying an OEM thermostat?



Any thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated.

 

OEM thermostat would be good. People have reported subpar quality with other brands.

When you say you "burped" the system, did you know to burp it at the thermostat with the bleeder valve?

2013 is the conversion year between OAT and HOAT. are you very sure you replaced the fluid with the correct vin matched fluid? Mixing them causes gumming.

 

Had thermostat replaced twice, radiator, and burped system on my 2015 JK Willy and now Jeep says I need new cyclinder heads because they’re warped after failing an engine block test. Jeep says the Willys are always in there and problematic. He also said this happens to 50% of these models. First and last time I buy a Jeep wrangler. Nothing but problems from the beginning. Funny how Jeep sells a lower grade warranty than most as they know their vehicles are crap.

 

Welcome to the Forum!
Sorry for your problem, but them telling you that this happens to 50% of these Models, is total BS!!!!!!!!!

 

I know this is a 2 year old post but, any updates? I’ve been having the same exact issue. Changed just about everything from the cooling system and still running a bit hot. I get mixed messages about what “normal” is sooo to aide my dilema, I got an obd2 sensor and paired it with my JScan on my phone. I turn on the fan from the JScan when I see it climbing to 220 and it’ll quickly go down to 210 sometimes 205.. and yes the fan does turn on by it self but for whatever reason still not enough. And yes the high speed fan turns on.. anyways hope this helps

 

I know this is a 2 year old post but, any updates? I’ve been having the same exact issue. Changed just about everything from the cooling system and still running a bit hot. I get mixed messages about what “normal” is sooo to aide my dilema, I got an obd2 sensor and paired it with my JScan on my phone. I turn on the fan from the JScan when I see it climbing to 220 and it’ll quickly go down to 210 sometimes 205.. and yes the fan does turn on by it self but for whatever reason still not enough. And yes the high speed fan turns on.. anyways hope this helps

The normal operating temp for the 3.6 is as follows: The thermostat starts to open at 203 degrees, and is fully opened at 215 degrees. So that is the normal range. I reside in hot as hell Phoenix AZ. That is the temp range that mine stays. In. Now, driving up a grade on a hot day, some will peak out at 226 degrees, which is then handles by a higher modulated speed from the engine cooling fan.

 

My turn!!

It overheats at highway speeds (245° ish) and cools down at stop lights and city speeds.

We've replaced the thermostat (3 times), radiator, radiator cap, coolant temp sensor (on the side of the block), and did a coolant flush (flush was prior to the radiator - all new coolant again). The relay for the electric fan tested good, but that got swapped anyway as well. The fan is turning on. And yes, we burped the system with the heat on full blast.

The head gasket is not blown.

I don't want to just throw a water pump at it on top of everything else. Please help. I'm stumped. Fan or water pump?

 

My turn!!

It overheats at highway speeds (245° ish) and cools down at stop lights and city speeds.

We've replaced the thermostat (3 times), radiator, radiator cap, coolant temp sensor (on the side of the block), and did a coolant flush (flush was prior to the radiator - all new coolant again). The relay for the electric fan tested good, but that got swapped anyway as well. The fan is turning on. And yes, we burped the system with the heat on full blast.

The head gasket is not blown.

I don't want to just throw a water pump at it on top of everything else. Please help. I'm stumped. Fan or water pump?

Sorry, also, this is my friend's 2015 Wrangler JKU Sport. It's been having this issue for about a year.

 

Having same issues as well. Starts to overheat until I pullover and let it cool.. changed thermostat 2 months ago.. changed today again and didn't help..

What year or motor do you have?

We've replaced the thermostat (3 times), radiator, radiator cap, coolant temp sensor (on the side of the block), and did a coolant flush (flush was prior to the radiator - all new coolant again). The relay for the electric fan tested good, but that got swapped anyway as well. The fan is turning on. And yes, we burped the system with the heat on full blast.

The fan on a 2015 doesn't have a relay like older models, it is PWM controlled by the computer. It should come on 10% at 226* and be on fully by 245*. When it is overheating, does he hear the fan? It should be impossible to miss as they sound like a jet taking off when going full speed. FYI, over heating isn't until over 250* with the 3.6.

Water pumps are not the common failure for the 3.6, but it is always a possibility. We most often see either a bubble or thermostat being the problem. You said you have replaced it 3 times now, but be aware we see many non-oem ones that aren't up to the task and fail after just a couple of months. This is why the oem ones are unobtanium right now.

The 3.6 is also a real pain to bleed. Make sure you use the bleeder on the thermostat housing and run it through a good half dozen cycles at least before thinking it is done. Some have had even better luck with vacuum filling the system.

Also make sure at no point did you get OAT and HOAT mixed in the system. They will form a gel that will clog things.

 

What year or motor do you have?



The fan on a 2015 doesn't have a relay like older models, it is PWM controlled by the computer. It should come on 10% at 226* and be on fully by 245*. When it is overheating, does he hear the fan? It should be impossible to miss as they sound like a jet taking off when going full speed. FYI, over heating isn't until over 250* with the 3.6.

Water pumps are not the common failure for the 3.6, but it is always a possibility. We most often see either a bubble or thermostat being the problem. You said you have replaced it 3 times now, but be aware we see many non-oem ones that aren't up to the task and fail after just a couple of months. This is why the oem ones are unobtanium right now.

The 3.6 is also a real pain to bleed. Make sure you use the bleeder on the thermostat housing and run it through a good half dozen cycles at least before thinking it is done. Some have had even better luck with vacuum filling the system.

Also make sure at no point did you get OAT and HOAT mixed in the system. They will form a gel that will clog things.

I have a 2017, it's the 3.6.