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P0128 Thermostat Issue-2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

6.3K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Mntorres07  
#1 ·
Hey everyone I am new here. To be honest I’ve never worked on a car but I’ve always wanted to learn how so here I am. I recently had my check engine light come on so I took it to a local mechanic to do a diagnostic and also had the oil changed. Code P0128 came up and he told me he would need to replace the thermostat and housing since there were cracks and coolant was seeping. I tried reading up on the issue and watched some YouTube videos on how to replace so I am debating whether I should try to do the job myself or leave it to the mechanic.

I took a look at the thermostat and I could not see visible cracks but there were spots of crusty white residue. I went underneath my car and noticed there was some oily substance on my oil pan and front differential. I checked the remaining oil life and it is at 35% which I thought was weird since they just changed the oil. I checked the oil and the level was fine but it was a light brown/honey color.
I am just a little suspicious of the shop since when I walked in the door I overheard them say “it’s a girl” and quoted me $150 for the diagnostic when they had an $80 coupon on their website. Their oil change price ended up being $20 more than what the dealership was offering. All red flags to me. Any help is appreciated!!
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#2 ·
Welcome to the Forum.. on the oil change -- it is possible (probably) that the shop did not reset the system .. do you recall if the % was near that before the change. Also, it appears you might have an Axle seal seeping.. the P0128 does indicate thermostat .. a change includes the housing and thermostat. When done, be sure that the correct antifreeze-coolant for your year Wrangler is used.. go with MOPAR correct OAT or HOAT is my recommendation.. There are several Utube videos on "Burping" the system to remove any air.. Suggestion.. get on the local dealer's web site and see what service coupons they are advertising.. If Flush cooling system is one, then ask for that and BTW change the Theromstat. This way you don't have to do it and dispose of it (I paid my dealer to do; but I'm lazy, have done to many work on cars & did not have to deal with the disposal). Oil pan is showing something on it could not really determine if it has a gasket seeping.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the advice!! Yes I might just ask the dealer for an estimate and have someone else do it. It’s never been flushed and it is a 7 year old Jeep now. I will probably do my own oil change next time though since it seems very easy and a good place to start.
 
#5 ·
If you've never really worked on a car, I don't think changing out the thermostat and housing is a great place to start. Go and get a second opinion on what you've found....and use the dealer if you are comfortable there. The axle seal is starting to seep, but it's not terrible, thus it should be done but is not an emergency. The oil on the pan is super light....meaning not much. Take a rag and wipe it clean and dry and monitor any change for a bit. And I agree that they didn't reset the computer after the oil change. From those photos and your description of the visit, I'd agree that there are better shops for you to visit. I don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about the advice you've been given from them.
 
#6 ·
Thanks! Yes I don’t want to create more issues for myself so I’ll take it in to someone else. I also waited 4 hours on a Saturday in that shop after they told me it would only take 30 minutes when I called them prior. 🤦‍♀️ Glad I found this forum. Lots of helpful info.
 
#7 · (Edited)
double post.
 
#8 ·
Yep, I will be doing my thermostat and housing soon. I suggest you join a local Jeep club or find a boyfriend that can help. Perhaps a local 4x4 store can help. Powertank is up there.
 
#10 ·
There's no better teacher than diving in and giving it a try. Having said that it's also nice to have a lifeline, someone who can bail you out if you have an issue. The thermostat/housing job isn't too bad, however bleeding the cooling system can be tricky. I was always someone willing to give it a try, even if it took two to three times longer than having it professionally done, that's how I learned. An advantage in this day and age is the internet, and YouTube, something that didn't exist in my day. If you should decide to give it a shot, watch several videos first. Otherwise start learning by changing your oil, just be aware that overtightening the filter housing can cause problems. Good luck!
 
#12 ·
I checked my coolant again and realized the shop I went to on Saturday used the wrong coolant. They used the pink HOAT instead of the purple OAT. So I’m probably never going back to them again. Dealer said over the phone they were going to charge $470-$570 because they needed to pressurize the system to check for leaks...not sure what that means. My last stop is another local shop I’ve used before and have had good experience with. Wish me luck.
 
#13 ·
Sorry for all the issues are having.
If they mixed HOAT with OAT that is bad, get it flushed ASAP.
This can start forming sludge, lots of material on this forum about it.
When I had mine flushed I bought my antifreeze from the dealer and made sure my mechanic used it and not their stuff.
I did change my thermostat not difficult but again I bought Mopar part only not aftermarket.
When it comes to under the hood I always buy Mopar parts from dealer, parts guy is great and always gives me discounts so can’t complain.


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#15 ·
Ouch.. being in Cali.. Labor rates are up there.. here is one flush process.. Note done several times.
How long does it take to flush a cooling system?
They will run your car for ten to 15 minutes, allowing the mixture to fully circulate. Drain the mixture: Your mechanic will drain the mixture from your car once it has sufficiently cooled down. They may have to repeat this process several times to drain it completely.Nov 1, 2019
 
#16 · (Edited)
Really appreciate all the help and knowledge. Second local shop flushed the coolant reset the remaining oil life replaced the thermostat and housing and found a low oil pressure warning as well. He replaced the cheap oil filter the previous shop used and the thermostat and housing with OEM parts. I actually started to lose power when I was driving up a steep bridge yesterday and he said the low oil pressure could have been why. It cost me a pretty penny but it’s been a good lesson learned. Thanks again everyone.
 
#17 ·
That P0128 code is "thermostat rationality" or some such. To me, more indicative of a stuck thermostat than a cracked housing.

That said... I got one on my 12 JKUS last year. No apparent leaks, but the computer wasn't getting "rational" readings from the coolant sensor - not what it was expecting.

I REALLY wanted to so it myself, but didn't want the mess and disposal of used coolant, so I opted for the dealer.

Now here's the weird part: Since new, my '12 never made it thru a winter without the drivers side heat going out. 1st year, they replaced the core, radiator, etc. Every year after, same problem. Sometimes more than once. They would just flush and give it back. They finally cut me off.

After the thermostat? NO heat issues... going on the 2nd yr! Still not exactly a blast furnace, but I'll take it!