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Rust-oleum bed liner or krylon fusion satin for my 03 bumpers?

24K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  lildrummaboy16  
#1 ·
I was planning on using the krylon for my fenders but is that ok for my bumpers too? which one would be better? Any thoughts or opinions are very appreciated! I also heard of Rust-oleum Hammered ... any thoughts on that one as well?

Thanks again!
 
#2 ·
I prefer the Rustoleum Bedliner for my bumpers and wheels.... it holds up great and easy touchup if needed. I did use Plasti-Dip for my bumpers, but stripped em and recoated with this instead... much more durable when you hit stuff on the trails, like boulders and junk....

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#7 ·
Krylon Fusion for the flares for sure.....
 
#8 ·
Definately Krylon on the flares. I stopped buying ANY other spray paint Once I discovered Krylon. If they made bedliner, I buy it too.

Last year I bought a new demin black Harley. Demin Black is Harley's tern for flat black...I bought a small unpainted fairing from harley to mount on it. After lots of questions on Harley forums, I went with Krylon Satin Black.

Harley wanted 20 bucks for a SMALL can of denim black, and all the guys on the forum were right, Krylon's satin black was a perfect match in every way and also help up after countless baked on bug splatters.
 
#11 ·
I shot my buddies Cherokee flares on the truck 2 years ago with Non-Fusion Krylon Satin Black and they still look new. I've never tried their plastics paint.

Come to think of it, my GF shot her Bronco plactic seatbacks with Fusion and she scraped it off with her nails later...don't know if she prepped it properly
 
#13 ·
I've been doing some experimenting on different surfaces and finding the following, especially since I use a lot of different rattle cans on different stuff. The hammered is just for appearance. Its not flexible at all. The bedliner is slightly different but I've found over winter that it does not expand or contract. I've had a new, super clean battery box of thin metal that would expand and contract and with the temp changes the bedliner just flaked off. Regular mopar paint did well however. On a side note, for black I'm finding the plastikote is durable as all get out. Another option also though, and it only comes in gloss is sprayable epoxy appliance paint. Takes forever to dry but its also damn near indestructable. Not sure about how it works with the flexing but having used it on washers and dryers in the past which shake, rattle and move I've never had it flake at all. So I'd suggest the appliance epoxy or plastikote. Especially when you have issues with temperature changes and flexing.
 
#14 ·
I've been doing some experimenting on different surfaces and finding the following, especially since I use a lot of different rattle cans on different stuff. The hammered is just for appearance. Its not flexible at all. The bedliner is slightly different but I've found over winter that it does not expand or contract. I've had a new, super clean battery box of thin metal that would expand and contract and with the temp changes the bedliner just flaked off. Regular mopar paint did well however. On a side note, for black I'm finding the plastikote is durable as all get out. Another option also though, and it only comes in gloss is sprayable epoxy appliance paint. Takes forever to dry but its also damn near indestructable. Not sure about how it works with the flexing but having used it on washers and dryers in the past which shake, rattle and move I've never had it flake at all. So I'd suggest the appliance epoxy or plastikote. Especially when you have issues with temperature changes and flexing.
Rust-Oleum makes a textured plastic paint that looks virtually identical to their bedliner. It is totally flexible and really very durable. That is what I used on my fender flares.
 
#17 ·
bed liner for sure...very tough stuff. front and rear fenders, plus sliders all painted with it.