You say 10mph, have you not tried going faster? The kind of washboard I often find out in the desert (where I'm often traversing many 10s of miles and going 10mph would take forever) is frequently smoothest at 40+ MPH, sometimes even faster up to 60ish. The tires don't have time to drop down into the low spots and just kind of float from high to high. Of course you're giving up traction/steering control, so YMMV on your comfort level doing this, but on long straight/flat stretches I don't consider it dangerous.

 

I agree. I find them to be violent at 10-15, but smooth at about 40-45 and faster.

 

Is the jku just never going to handle these ok? The civic rides perfectly fine on them but I cant haul everything in the civic.......

Do FJs or Tacoma have this problem? End vent.....

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I drive work trucks 5 days a week.... ford, gm, toyota.... what ever they have in the motor pool at the time... and the rear end is all over the place on ALL of them on washboards.


The suspension on trucks (and jeeps) are not sponges like on a caddy or civic so they do not handle washboards well.

 

My jeep is the front and the rear is all over the place. I wonder if the grand cherokee will handle them well.

I have not tried going faster because the border patrol is always on this road and the posted speed limit is 15 mph but I am curious now if that would work lol.

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10 MPH is too slow for washboards. speed up like the second poster said. Will make the trip much smoother. I generally hit wash boards at about 30-40mph.

 

Aren't you overheating your shocks if you go 30+ on washboards?

 

If you cover long distances on washboards (or just rough trails) at higher speeds then you need reservoir shocks - that is what they are made for although most people run them because they look cool.

 

The inside is taking a beating because something is too stiff. Tires E rated? Stiff springs and lots of lift? While the Falcon 3.3's are great and can be adjusted to be soft, they are not as soft as an oil filled like the MC red shocks. Going fast to float will work till you want to turn or stop. If you have E rated tires you might try the low 20's for PSI in them.

 

Best thing I've found for wash board roads is a good set of aftermarket shocks. Years back when I had a toyota pickup it was terrible. I put on some rancho 5000's and it was like a different truck on washboards. That was 30 years ago. I'm sure shocks have come a long way since then.

 

I actually tested this road with pro comp cheap shocks and springs. Also with evo plush springs with falcon 3.3 shocks with all soft and all hard settings.

Rides the same pretty much. Street behavior much better but in terms of washboards no difference.

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You mentioned tire pressure but not tire size....
You might still need to go lower, depending what sized tire .

 

Ko2 35" which I think it's 33" true size

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Try the northeast, the freeze thaw cycle wreaks havoc on our roads.

 

Forgot to mention- I’ve run hard on them for many miles without bothering the shocks. And I’ve never had any fancy shocks. I’m sure you’ll be fine

 

@ things to try, faster, I find 30-35 to be pretty good and put it in 4HI.

 

Independent suspension VS solid axles are total different animals. Your going to have to be deep in the teens to smooth that thing out. My daughters Corolla handles washboards better than my jeep.

 

I don't think independent suspension really has a lot to do with it since both wheels on a given axle are climbing up and over road-width moguls at the same time. They are reacting together as opposed to independently.


You need a spongy passenger-type shock absorber which can react fast with large travel without a lot of effort. Unfortunately that's exactly the kind of shock you won't find on trucks, jeeps and alike because they would be a disaster on the trail.

 

FYI: Driving fast is what causes washboard on dirt roads.

 

The residents on this road do it on purpose because of the wanna be really racers

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Try doing a disco on the front sway bar and run in 4x4 hi range.

 

If the speed must be low then airing down under 20 psi is what I've done. 4H improves things a little over 2H. If it bothers you that much then take the time to air down and then back up before getting back onto the highway.

 

I've done a lot of driving on heavily washboarded roads, and I've found that increasing speed helps, but only if you stop shy of the speed at which you lose control. Shifting to 4HI seems to help a lot with the control issue.

 

drag some chain link fence with some old tires on it. Washboard gone.

 

It's not a baseball field.

 

I had a 1999 GMC Sierra 2500 extended cab 4x4 and it did great on washboard roads. Get up to 35mph or more and it floated over everything. Going around corners was fun as the backend would come out and just slide around the turn. There are some advantages to not having much weight over the rear axle and a long wheelbase.

 

An old timer once told me... a tire pushes a small amount of sand/gravel ahead of it, to the point it finally rides over it... and the cycle repeats... with enough traffic - washboards.
That makes more sense to me than anything else I've ever heard.
Given that, I would *think* it would be especially so under braking conditions.
*shrug*.

 

I've always been of the opposite opinion-the tire freespins just a bit when it bounces, causing it to pile up a bit behind it. Bit the pile in front also makes sense, probably a combo of the two.

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I'vs been told that running your vehicle in 4 wheel drive helps reduce washboard roads from forming. The reason for this is your non-drive wheels act as a plow. There is just a slight resistance to rolling in non-drive wheels. they tend to push gravel/dirt until there is enough force/speed to rise above and over.

This makes a lot of sense to me being an old dirt bike ride. Hit deep sand/slit and pushing sand with the front tire with it want to wash out even if you have adequate speed to ride on top of it. Drive tires make ruts, front tires make washboards. At least that is my thinking and the primary reason I shift into 4hi when the pavement ends.

 

Amplitude and frequency of the "washboard" will determine your speed.

 

Are you staying out of the bump stops? (Are they setup correctly)
Did you try lower pressure yet?

 

I will most likely be driving this road again next weekend. I will try disconnecting the front sway and lowering the pressure to maybe 22

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I found that smoothing out the washboards I needed to be down under 20 psi. Your sidewall stiffness may differ. I am on the factory supplied BFG KM2's.

 

It's not the weapons,,, it's the illegals. But the extra weight will help the ride on the washboard road.

 

King Shocks!!! Miracle workers!! I can not say enough about how they changed the ride of my JK... I also installed the AEV geometry correction brackets which helped a lot to stop transferring the impact to the frame. Does a much better job of keeping it to the springs and shocks(Kings!!) works great!

 

Which version of the king shocks are you having good luck with?

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Make sure the gas tank is full and put a few sand bags in the back.