Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

Unadulterated Truth w/35s

50K views 220 replies 79 participants last post by  CGNY  
#1 ·
So its clear that the front axles in the Jk series wranglers are not a great choice when upgrading your tires to 35". This isnt a thread to dispute the stronger and latger ring gear etc of the dana 44 over the dana 30. It is however a real world experience and no Magazine journalist article on the truth of the axle durability. We know the axle tubes and knuckles are less than desirable on the Jk front options. But are they really so delicate they bend and disfigure even with simple dailey driving? Are sleaves and gussets necessary for the weekend warrior? Im tired of explaning my opinion, this is a question ive posted to show a non member. Be nice, stay on topic. Any experiences are helpfull. Thanks in advance everybody.
 
#2 ·
I swapped to 34x10.50-15 LTBs the moment I pulled in the driveway with my '12. Drove on those for about (~5,000 miles) three months (two light wheeling trips on rocks) and when I went to get an alignment immediately after a "proper" lift and 35s the specs were already indicating my Cs were leaning in at the top. I was really disappointed in the lack of durability.
 
#72 ·
Without having the specs when it was new you can't say they were bent based on alignment readings you got at 5k miles.

X2

At what point can a bent C cant be "fixed"?
Anything can be fixed, it is just a matter of how much money you want to spend. You can do a little fixing for not much money with a balljoint change.

I was told by Jeep they absolutely will not replace the axle, because it was clearly being abuse well beyond the intended purpose of the vehicle. The fix cost? I pull slightly left to keep it straight. :D
It doesn't matter what they told you. The housings are covered just like everything else. If there is a flaw in the housing, they will fix it.

Seriously, though- only the internals of the axles are covered and that does not include the shafts at all. I would know- my right rear shaft has been tweaked at the flange since two weeks after purchase and they refuse to do anything about it.
They refuse to do anything about it because YOU bent it by hitting something. The warranty is there to protect the buyer against manufacturing and assembly defects, not damage that you cause.

Weld away on the axle housings because A- it's not gonna be covered anyway… and B- it's very expensive to properly fix it; so basically, once they're bent… they're bent. I could still go in with adjustable ball joints, but I rotate aggressively as it is so tire wear will be minimal. I'll gusset the front ASAP and when the ball joints are ready to be replaced, I'll get the Poly Performance ones.
One thing is for certain: If you weld on it there is no way it will be covered. If you don't you have a fighting chance.

Two weeks after I bought it I may have dropped the front end from about 24" in the air. It was probably that same spot that I bent the right rear axle flange.

That MIGHT have had something to do with it. :D
Yet you still think they should cover it under warranty?

Here's the alignment specs at around 5,000 miles… I don't know WTF it means, but Rock Krawler told me it appears my Cs are leaning inward.

Image


I'm getting it realigned ASAP, as that shop did a treacherous job and I have recently set up a new sponsor on our local message board who swears they can get me driving perfectly straight.
There is nothing wrong with the camber numbers on that sheet. It says the limit is -5/8 and you were at -3/4 when you took it in. The machine isn't accurate enough to tell the difference and neither is the tech running it. You already said they did a hack job on it, so why put any faith in the numbers they gave you? It was worse after they were done with it than before. The KPI numbers compared to the camber numbers tell a good story here.

Sleeves don't just help keep the tube from bending, they also limit the amount of flex on the axle shaft under heavy torque situations.
Sleeves don't do anything to the axle shaft, just the housing.

Tire leaning in and excessive negative camber.
Those can be caused by other things as well. Bad balljoints and wheelbearings come readily to mind.

They dont measure the same as stock
How many people on here drove their Jeep straight to the dealer as soon as they got it so they would have stock camber measurements on hand?

Trussing is similar to sleeves in that it adds rigidity to the axle tubes. However, they also provide you with more robust mounting locations.
To me a truss is the better solution because it allows the axle seals to be changed after it is installed.
 
#3 ·
Frshmt said:
I swapped to 34x10.50-15 LTBs the moment I pulled in the driveway with my '12. Drove on those for about (~5,000 miles) three months (two light wheeling trips on rocks) and when I went to get an alignment immediately after a "proper" lift and 35s the specs were already indicating my Cs were leaning in at the top. I was really disappointed in the lack of durability.
Yikes. Ive suspected and preached this weakness. Great input. What was the repair bill, or was is still in adjustable correction range?
 
#7 ·
would anyone be so kind as to show a picture of your sleeve/gusset work - preferably before & after?
 
#12 ·
Man, I am knee deep in this issue right now and was just putting together an info-type packet to show my wife (all out-the-door-with-shipping pricing, or Q's free shipping).

Evo sleeve (sealed) and gussets are $234.99
Tereflex sleeve and gusset (not above and below) with Superior seal caps is $220.97

Evo sleeve (sealed) and the comprehensive rustyoffroad gussets (6 pieces) is 260.99

My choice, I think, is tereflex sleeve, Superior seals and rustyoffroad gussets is $239.98

JKS makes gussets (above and below) for $107.50

But the "Bombshell" kit is from Rockslider.com which is everything, to include outer sleeve welds, inner sleeve, etc for 357.89. The outter sleeve welds alone are 2231.89.

Soooooooooooooooooo many choices. But saying that, I am sure of this, even with my 255/80/17 pizza cutters (not heavy at all) -- I am beefing it up with something.
 
#13 ·
I was told by Jeep they absolutely will not replace the axle, because it was clearly being abuse well beyond the intended purpose of the vehicle. The fix cost? I pull slightly left to keep it straight. :D

Seriously, though- only the internals of the axles are covered and that does not include the shafts at all. I would know- my right rear shaft has been tweaked at the flange since two weeks after purchase and they refuse to do anything about it.

Weld away on the axle housings because A- it's not gonna be covered anyway… and B- it's very expensive to properly fix it; so basically, once they're bent… they're bent. I could still go in with adjustable ball joints, but I rotate aggressively as it is so tire wear will be minimal. I'll gusset the front ASAP and when the ball joints are ready to be replaced, I'll get the Poly Performance ones.
 
#14 ·
#16 ·
Frshmt said:
I was told by Jeep they absolutely will not replace the axle, because it was clearly being abuse well beyond the intended purpose of the vehicle. The fix cost? I pull slightly left to keep it straight. :D

Seriously, though- only the internals of the axles are covered and that does not include the shafts at all. I would know- my right rear shaft has been tweaked at the flange since two weeks after purchase and they refuse to do anything about it.

Weld away on the axle housings because A- it's not gonna be covered anyway… and B- it's very expensive to properly fix it; so basically, once they're bent… they're bent. I could still go in with adjustable ball joints, but I rotate aggressively as it is so tire wear will be minimal. I'll gusset the front ASAP and when the ball joints are ready to be replaced, I'll get the Poly Performance ones.
:eek:
 
#122 ·
I also had the alignment checked on mine about two weeks after purchase...no wheeling. I find myself having to pull the wheel to the left in most driving. They told me the alignment was in spec and the issue was the "slant" of the highway. This is odd, considering my '94 Camaro doesn't experience the same issue in the same spots on the highway, and neither does my wife's 2012 Subaru Forester.

I'm curious as to how many other people feel like their alignment is "off." While I'm in the right lane of a highway, my vehicle pulls to the right. When I'm in the left lane, it tracks straighter. Maybe it is the "slant" of the highway, but I still find this to be almost a bs answer.
 
#22 ·
Two weeks after I bought it I may have dropped the front end from about 24" in the air. It was probably that same spot that I bent the right rear axle flange.

That MIGHT have had something to do with it. :D

Wish I had taken it seriously and gusseted first. I would very strongly recommend to ANYONE who plans to actually wheel a JK… gusset the tar out of the front axle ASAP.

Here's my right rear wheel. Look closesly; you can see the caliper pulsing back and forth:



Here's the alignment specs at around 5,000 miles… I don't know WTF it means, but Rock Krawler told me it appears my Cs are leaning inward.

Image


I'm getting it realigned ASAP, as that shop did a treacherous job and I have recently set up a new sponsor on our local message board who swears they can get me driving perfectly straight.
 
#24 ·
Still learning about all of this....can someone simplify for me what the Gussets are doing compared to the Sleeves? Is just doing Gussets helping or is it pointless to do one and not the other?

Also....I don't weld, I barely wrench at this point, so I don't see me doing a project like this myself. Any ideas what I could expect to pay a shop to install Gussets and/or Sleeves?

Thx