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Wheel Bearing help

3.6K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Got it at last  
#1 ·
I got some new tires put on the other day, and the tech mentioned that my wheel bearings were shot. They’ve been making noise, so it’s not a surprise to me. Assuming that my bearings and hubs are still the original ones, would I be better off getting just the wheel bearings, or one of the hub/bearing kits from Quadratec? I have linked one below, and there’s also an OMIX ADA version that costs about $100 more. https://www.quadratec.com/p/accupart/front-hub-bearing-assembly-wrangler-yj-cherokee-xj-AP-170001
 
#2 ·
Fwiw, when I refreshed my ‘89 YJ’s front end I replaced both hubs complete with the new bearings as a single unit.

Pretty straightforward to swap out, especially if you are able to douse the mounting hardware with penetrating fluid ahead of time.

The replacement part’s studs were slightly shorter than OEM so I purchased a set of lug nuts which allowed for more thread depth than the OEM lug nuts. I’m running alloy rims so the depth at the lug nut/stud is longer than regular steel wheels etc.

Rob
 
#3 ·
Do you happen to remember which brand you used? Do you suppose there’s any that are noticeably better than others?


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#4 · (Edited)
I bought this set on Amazon, which appears to be holding up well over the past year or so.

Without getting into a debate about vendor quality etc I use the YJ for running around town mostly on decent roads. If I was inclined to go green-laning or do some serious off-roading I’d likely purchase the best quality available (but I’m not).

Our YJ’s a toy, not a tool ;)

Image
 
#5 ·
That’s my situation too. I will have to look into those.


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#6 ·
Could you post a link to those? There’s a bunch of different ones on Amazon and I want to be sure. Thanks.


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#7 · (Edited)
Did you check out the ones listed at rock auto? They have several brands, SKF at $43.79, SKF is a major world wide bearing manufacturer. They also have lower cost versions under listed as closeout under $15.00 each.


SKF Warranty Information:
Wheel Bearing & Hub: 5 year 60,000 miles, Universal Joints: Lifetime, Else: 1 year 12,000 miles
 
owns 2013 Jeep JKU Rubicon
#8 ·
I'd go with the SKF at Rock Auto unless Amazon has the same thing at the same, or better, price and you have Prime. In either event, I'd stick with the SKF.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
owns 1987 JEEP Wrangler
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#9 ·
Completely agree with Luckymac. SKF from Rockauto. I typically swap out the wheel studs for TJ Rubicon wheel studs from Napa. YJ oem wheel do not fit my wheels. It's an easy swap that takes minutes.

Be sure to look up ways to remove the unit bearings. They can be a real pain to remove. I use a chunk of steel to loosened bolt using the power steering. Also reassemble with anti seize.
 
#13 ·
The Amazon page says fitment is from 90-99. Do you know if that's accurate and would not fit an 88?
 
#12 ·
Detroit Axle is getting some bad press but I've got 7yrs on my 89 and they have been well tested.
 
#14 ·
Yes there is a difference between the 87-90 #513107 and 90-up #513084. TImken#'s
I do not know what the deciding factor is, but it looks like it has something to do with a slight cup and seal so I would roll with your axle DOM when ordering part.
 
#16 ·
The hubs have a slightly different offset to accommodate the brake rotors used in those years. Later years had composite rotors. I remember the parts guy asking back when I had a front 30 years ago in my '92.
The earlier version hubs used tapered rollers too. I've heard of some swapping out later years for a perceived strength increase, but I doubt any difference quantifies the effort.
 
#17 ·
Sorry, it’s been a minute. In case anyone’s still following, we had a pipe burst in the house and I don’t have access to my garage for the foreseeable future, so I bit the bullet and paid the mechanic $850 to replace the cylinders, bearings, hubs, and drums. It hurt.
 
#18 ·
OUCH. Thanks for the follow up!