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Winch Circuit breaker--or NOT?

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15K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  Got it at last  
#1 ·
My Winch is direct to battery 2AWG which is "Fine" supposedly... but I'm looking at relocating the solenoids under the hood.
The big debate (in my mind) is whether to add a 400-500 AMP breaker. My winch is rated at 413 AMP max draw.
Could be just a waste of money adding a breaker...

I almost think melting cables to "pull" out of a "bad" situation is better than tripping a breaker in the middle of a "rescue".

Thoughts, opinions, and most valuable experiences welcome! ;)

(I want to relocate because the right turn signal is blocked by the ridiculous solenoid box.)

John D
 
#3 ·
If you follow the duty cycle recommendations that come with the winch, you should not have to worry about melting cables, or damaging the winch. therefore no need for a breaker. But if you want to do the disconnect bill 61 above has linked, you could just buy a set of anderson connectors and put inline to the winch, but that is really unnecessary if the winch is stationary on the jeep.
 
#9 ·
I agree that a breaker is good for most components i.e,. headlights, Aux lights, and other ancillary components that might leave you stranded if they short. For vehicle recovery I err on the side of life--You or someone else rolling down the mountain is not cheap--rather save a life than my Jeep!
I did not like the idea of my winch always being "hot" because i have heard stories about solenoids sticking and not being able to turn them off without disconnecting the cable. I think i even read a story about something failing inside the control box and the winch running away and pulling the hook though the fairlead while parked and destroying everything. I wanted to have a shut off switch under the hood so i could turn it off while not in use and if a solenoid fails i can turn it off if it runs away.

I went with a Blue Sea Systems 9003E after talking with Blue Sea by email. This is his reply to me




View attachment 4481434

Wow! thanks all for your input!
I hadn't thought about the switch--good idea given the Neg terminal corrosion I'm getting currently.
Planning out full re-wire Winch/Lights/Fog/Aux etc. so I'll post updates....

John D
 
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#5 ·
I refer back to my original suggestion of not exceeding the duty cycle.
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
I did not like the idea of my winch always being "hot" because i have heard stories about solenoids sticking and not being able to turn them off without disconnecting the cable. I think i even read a story about something failing inside the control box and the winch running away and pulling the hook though the fairlead while parked and destroying everything. I wanted to have a shut off switch under the hood so i could turn it off while not in use and if a solenoid fails i can turn it off if it runs away.

I went with a Blue Sea Systems 9003E after talking with Blue Sea by email. This is his reply to me

Thank you for the question. The 9003e is rated for 350 amps continuous, but also 600 amps for 5 minutes. Then 1200 amps for 30 seconds cranking. It is highly unlikely you will draw over 600 amps for 5 minutes while winching. Most batteries simply cannot provide enough amperage at this level for that amount of time.

Please ask if you have any additional questions.



Best Regards,


Kevin Patterson

Blue Sea Systems

Technical Support Specialist

ABYC Certified Electrician

4481434
 
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#10 ·
Then there's always Murphy raising his ugly head. (Murphy's Law). My winch came with circuit breakers and I installed them along with the winch. I ran the winch cables through split plastic conduit and used dielectric grease on all the connections. I did what I consider a nice, neat installation.
I recently serviced my winch by filling the transmission with more grease than the factory originally put in it and sealing the control box with clear silicone. Everything in the control box looked like it did when the winch was new.
@agalloch07 got me thinking about a disconnect switch and @iowagold got me thinking about better battery cable clamps. I just ordered and received a large disconnect switch and a two sets of battery cable clamps. I haven't installed them yet but that's high on my Jeep to-do list.

Got it at last comments on duty cycle. So, imagine this. You're winching up wet steps. You're almost at the top, with a foot or so more to go and you're at the end of the operable part of the duty cycle. There's several Jeeps behind you. Do you run the winch beyond it's duty cycle and hope to get over the top before the winch quits, or do you stop, wait for the required time and finish the pull? Everyone should know their winch's duty cycle and how long they can run it under load and how long they need to wait between pulls.
I guess the answer is different for different situations and different individuals, but with circuit breakers and a cut off switch, there's an added layer of protection for the winch (and the Jeep). When it comes to safety, I try to follow the "belt and suspenders" philosophy.

We're all different, so I believe there's no "right" answer. Probably the best answer is to have a fire extinguisher and don't go out on the difficult trails alone.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
owns 1987 JEEP Wrangler
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#11 ·
😁😁
Image

just a teaser pix of what i have done.
all real 2 gauge.
audio, starter, wench.
i have a bit over 100 pix of the build.
just wrapping up the dash as the last of the gauge parts arrived over the weekend.
i do have real good pix of the dash and the wiring updates for the new gauges.
engine build is in the works so maybe first of sept for first start up on this project.
more later stay tuned! LOL!
 
#12 ·
It's all relative to how hard your winch has to work. Light pulls don't draw as much amperage as heavier pulls. So time is relative. Fortunately my winch sees very little duty. (My working theory is to have the winch and you Won't need it).
The biggest problem I see is in low Battery voltage and not having enough juice and overworking the electric motor. Using a dual battery setup gives me all the voltage and amperage I could need. I use a Blue Sea Systems disconnect/diverted to have a disconnect to electrical system. Proper use of di-electric grease or equivalent protects against connection corrosion. 5yrs and had no issues.
I also check my cables for heat as a fail safe against melt downs.
That being said, with sufficient amperage limits what could a circuit breaker hurt?

It looks like @iowahas a very well thought out setup. Maybe he could post a thread on that alone to show off his craftmanship.