depending on the severity of the rust, the rust reformer at the spray paint area of the store can, but not always, work. I assume it would be a thinner coat for a bolt hole, so probably a good thing. You can also clean them out really well using the bore brushes from a gun cleaning kit.

 

First and foremost don’t break the bolt off inside the hole
Acetone and ATF mix is your friend
Heat can help too

Once out chase threads with a tap

Around hole can use anti rust coating like por-15 but if gets in threads retap

To prevent further rust of threads a moly lube or a silicon grease like dielectric or if want a anti loosen or an open hole without a bolt silicone sealant

Finally don’t put stainless bolts in non stainless holes as that causes corrosion


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Run a tap through to cut the rust out. Put anti-seize on the new bolt during re-assembly. I don't agree not to use stainless steel bolts in regular steel holes. I been using them for many years and they don't seize-up and the heads don't rust off. They will break off before a steel bolt because they are a bit more brittle. Steel and stainless steel are so close in makeup I don't see a how that would cause a dissimilar metal chemical/corrosion reaction.

 

Doesn’t matter if you agree or not
Facts are facts

How to Prevent Galvanic Corrosion Between Carbon and Stainless Steel

Read the APP blog for tips on how to prevent galvanic corrosion between carbon steel and stainless steel.

www.appmfg.com

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You are right. But with a few simple actions, the galvanic reaction is slowed to the point of being negotiable. First stainless steel lands on the anodic index table at 0.50v and steel 0.85v. It is understood that having a difference of more than 0.15v in the harshest of conditions will cause galvanic corrosion, obviously we have 0.35v difference between these two. Slowing the electrical path between two such metals is easy because the voltage is so low. This is an electrical charge created by the two metals, not introduced current. First you have to have an electrolyte for the current to move between them, water with a mineral content (calcium aka. salt). That is something we know we can't avoid 4-wheeling. So next is an insulator. Anti-seize, grease, oil, paint, or any other means of isolating the two metals from one another. Now your thinking, why would I go to the extra time and expense of using stainless, first and foremost galvanic corrosion is not the corrosion we fight in our jeeps, it's oxidation of mild steel exposed to oxygen and mineral laden water. Stainless (not stain proof) doesn't suffer from this condition anywhere near as much as mild steel. Just look at the rocker panels on a 20 year old Chevy truck and the stainless steel Delorean car from the early 80s.
I have stainless bolts on the underneath frame that have been there for 5 years and they look new and will come out with a hand wrench, I have some new mild steel bolts in my skid plate that are starting to rust after 6 months.
You make the call. use them, don't use them. This is my experience having worked in the mining industry, one of the harshest environments (behind marine) on steel structures. Stainless bolts will release and come loose long after a mild steel bolt has rusted away.

 

You are right. But with a few simple actions, the galvanic reaction is slowed to the point of being negotiable. First stainless steel lands on the anodic index table at 0.50v and steel 0.85v. It is understood that having a difference of more than 0.15v in the harshest of conditions will cause galvanic corrosion, obviously we have 0.35v difference between these two. Slowing the electrical path between two such metals is easy because the voltage is so low. This is an electrical charge created by the two metals, not introduced current. First you have to have an electrolyte for the current to move between them, water with a mineral content (calcium aka. salt). That is something we know we can't avoid 4-wheeling. So next is an insulator. Anti-seize, grease, oil, paint, or any other means of isolating the two metals from one another. Now your thinking, why would I go to the extra time and expense of using stainless, first and foremost galvanic corrosion is not the corrosion we fight in our jeeps, it's oxidation of mild steel exposed to oxygen and mineral laden water. Stainless (not stain proof) doesn't suffer from this condition anywhere near as much as mild steel. Just look at the rocker panels on a 20 year old Chevy truck and the stainless steel Delorean car from the early 80s.
I have stainless bolts on the underneath frame that have been there for 5 years and they look new and will come out with a hand wrench, I have some new mild steel bolts in my skid plate that are starting to rust after 6 months.
You make the call. use them, don't use them. This is my experience having worked in the mining industry, one of the harshest environments (behind marine) on steel structures. Stainless bolts will release and come loose long after a mild steel bolt has rusted away.

Man you really had to dig for that explanation.

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I have rebuilt several motors including a 4.0 jeep and I always use a cheapo thread chaser kit to chase all the threads i.e freshen them up. Have a shop vac with a thin tapered nozzle to vacuum them out as you go. This extra step is worth is it. The kit I use was 10 dollars for a set of SAE with the 5 most common bolt types. I got it from Summit or Jegs. I bet HF has something similar

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There are several ways to skin a cat. I normally take Diggers advice, he's very knowledgeable about Jeeps. This time we differ.

 

We agreed on almost the whole concept just differed on stainless bolts and you did have a mitigation strategy


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Thanks. It's nice to know some of us can agree to disagree and still be friends. "Jeep On" brother.

 

Just to be clear, I was making a pun b/c of your mining reference...and not a slight on your explanation.

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You got me on that one. I totally miss the pun, that's a good one.