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Discussion starter · #21 ·
On both my JK and JT the filter cap shows 25 Nm, which is just over 18 ft-lbs. As stated, I would never use this torque. 100-120 in-lbs (8-10 ft-lbs) is plenty.
Jac, I appreciate your comment here, and all the others, that warn against overtightening the oil filter cap --- something that I might otherwise well have done, even though I am always wary of (over)tightening any sort of threaded plastic piece.
 
I have the 2.0 in my Wrangler. The manual says to use 5w-30 that meets the MS-13340 spec. I've found a few brands that specifically display MS-13340 on the label. However I see more that display MS-6395 with no mention of MS-13340. Is MS-6395 a step above the MS-13340? Does any 5w-30 with the SP rating meet both specs?
 
On both my JK and JT the filter cap shows 25 Nm, which is just over 18 ft-lbs. As stated, I would never use this torque. 100-120 in-lbs (8-10 ft-lbs) is plenty.
Agree completely. The torque isn't what seals the cap. The o-ring will seal even when just hand tightened. Pressure from the oil forces the o-ring into the corner of the groove of the two mating surfaces and forms the seal.

Change the o-ring every filter change if you can. I run Wix XP filters and they come with a new o-ring. But rumor has it that the OEM filter, as well as the Fram Ultra, has finer filtration. I don't know if the difference at that level matters and I have a half dozen more Wix XP filters, so I'm using them.

I also keep a spare filter cap. I just remembered and will bring that and a filter along with other spares in the tow vehicle, when we do the Rubicon next month.
 
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I have the 2.0 in my Wrangler. The manual says to use 5w-30 that meets the MS-13340 spec. I've found a few brands that specifically display MS-13340 on the label. However I see more that display MS-6395 with no mention of MS-13340. Is MS-6395 a step above the MS-13340? Does any 5w-30 with the SP rating meet both specs?
I believe someone on a forum mentioned that MS-6395 is an older spec and that the turbo 2.0L MS-13340 specification is more rigorous and a later spec. It makes sense that the turbo engine would require better oil. But, I'd say that most of the top tier synthetic oils will meet or exceed both of these specs.
 
Hey Roanie, I really appreciate you providing this tip about the Mobil 1 oil.

I had purchased the Mobil 1 0W-20 Truck & SUV full synthetic oil (with my weekly towing in mind), and its specifications from the link you sent me here show that is does meet or exceed the MS-6395 standard. So that saves me the trip to return it. Thanks!
Mobil 1 is what I use with my 2.0. It was great in my motorcycle too which many more RPM's than the Jeep.
 
I have the 2.0 in my Wrangler. The manual says to use 5w-30 that meets the MS-13340 spec. I've found a few brands that specifically display MS-13340 on the label. However I see more that display MS-6395 with no mention of MS-13340. Is MS-6395 a step above the MS-13340? Does any 5w-30 with the SP rating meet both specs?
Castrol Edge 5w-30 at Wally World.
 
Take it to a stealership so they can crank down your oil filter so you have to punch through it with a screwdriver to remove it.... Thanks stealership idiots.

I love changing the oil in my Jeep. 2.5" (actually more than that) and 37s gives me SO much space under it! I HATE changing the oil on my wifes Chevy Equinox.
 
I have the 2.0 in my Wrangler. The manual says to use 5w-30 that meets the MS-13340 spec. I've found a few brands that specifically display MS-13340 on the label. However I see more that display MS-6395 with no mention of MS-13340. Is MS-6395 a step above the MS-13340? Does any 5w-30 with the SP rating meet both specs?
I use Valvoline 5W-30 full synthetic in our JLU 2.0. It specifically says that it meets the MS-13340 standard.

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On both my JK and JT the filter cap shows 25 Nm, which is just over 18 ft-lbs. As stated, I would never use this torque. 100-120 in-lbs (8-10 ft-lbs) is plenty.
Well... hand tight is plenty. That 12 lbs. spec came from Jeep back in 2013. You can't really feel the difference between 10 ft. lbs. and 12 ft. lbs.

I use a CDI 1/4" digital torque wrench. PN 2401CI3..

What torque wrench are you using?

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Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Well, the oil change went fine, as did the installation of the Fumoto drain valve. My only small concern was with tightening the oil filter cap ---- there didn't seem to be any noticeable demarcation point, feel-wise, in terms of torque, but I definitely did not crank down 'blue face hard' on it, or anything even close to that. And I took the advice of one poster (I forgot who, now), and lubed the threads of the filter cap with some new oil, along with the new O-ring.

EDIT: I should maybe add that I do not have, and keep forgetting to purchase, a lower-range torque wrench, so I could not measure the exact torque that I was applying to the oil filter cap.
(The one torque wrench that I do own starts at 20 ft-lbs, so that one would have been useless in this case.)
 
Well, the oil change went fine, as did the installation of the Fumoto drain valve. My only small concern was with tightening the oil filter cap ---- there didn't seem to be any noticeable demarcation point, feel-wise, in terms of torque, but I definitely did not crank down 'blue face hard' on it, or anything even close to that. And I took the advice of one poster (I forgot who, now), and lubed the threads of the filter cap with some new oil, along with the new O-ring.
thats where it gets fuzzy... you're tightening a plastic cap with a rubber o-ring to a plastic housing. just need to snug it down with a light touch. The oil filter housing is upside down. The only way it will leak if you crack the housing by OVER-TIGHTENING the cap.

Or perhaps destroying the cap before its installed. The spring was moved to the cap after 2013.

glad you made it through one of Jeeps enigineering marvels...
 
EDIT: I should maybe add that I do not have, and keep forgetting to purchase, a lower-range torque wrench, so I could not measure the exact torque that I was applying to the oil filter cap.
(The one torque wrench that I do own starts at 20 ft-lbs, so that one would have been useless in this case.)
I think you'll find the lower spec torque wrenches are 1/4" with a range between 2-20 ft lbs. I use both -- the 1/4" and 3/8" that starts at 10 ft. lbs. But I have other uses for the 1/4" so it's not a waste of money.

I had to get 1/4" to 3/8" drive adapter to fit the 24mm socket.

PITA.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I think you'll find the lower spec torque wrenches are 1/4" with a range between 2-20 ft lbs. I use both -- the 1/4" and 3/8" that starts at 10 ft. lbs. But I have other uses for the 1/4" so it's not a waste of money.

I had to get 1/4" to 3/8" drive adapter to fit the 24mm socket.

PITA.
OK, thanks for that information, m998dna, and it makes sense.

I've got everything else in terms of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets, including adapters for one size drive to another, various extensions, etc. Although I did just buy another 24mm 6-point socket specifically for the oil filter cap --- I had lost my previous one somewhere.
 
I just use a socket and ratchet. If you don't have a good feel for the torque you're exerting, by all means, get a proper torque wrench. You might just get a simple bending beam lbs/in type for this job. They aren't used for a lot and a bending beam type is cheap.
 
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I use a CDI 1/4" digital torque wrench. PN 2401CI3..

What torque wrench are you using?
For the Cap:
CDI 2502MRPH, 3/8" drive, 30-250 in.lb. range

For the Drain Plug:
CDI 1002MFRMH, 3/8" drive, 10-100 ft.lb. range
 
For the Cap:
CDI 2502MRPH, 3/8" drive, 30-250 in.lb. range

For the Drain Plug:
CDI 1002MFRMH, 3/8" drive, 10-100 ft.lb. range
I actually like your wrenches better. I wish I had never invested in the digital models.
 
Hmm... about to do my first oil change myself soon .. went with Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil and their
AMSOIL Oil Filters
EA15K19 (EA15K19-EA)

I was just going to hand tighten with my socket set the drain plug and then just lightly hand tighten the oil filter cap up top ... now I'm questioning everything :p
:LOL: All the "torque wrench for everything" stuff is brought to you by the foolish things people do (forget to tighten or no idea about how tight). In the 60s and 70s, a torque wrench was a specialty tool that few DIY mechanics had and virtually no tire shops used. Now they've brainwashed everyone into thinking you can't change a damn tire safely without one. I've seen engines completely rebuilt without a torque wrench and never have a problem.

Now about that Amsoil... :unsure: :ROFLMAO:
 
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:LOL: All the "torque wrench for everything" stuff is brought to you by the foolish things people do (forget to tighten or no idea about how tight). In the 60s and 70s, a torque wrench was a specialty tool that few DIY mechanics had and virtually no tire shops used. Now they've brainwashed everyone into thinking you can't change a damn tire safely without one. I've seen engines completely rebuilt without a torque wrench and never have a problem.

Now about that Amsoil... :unsure: :ROFLMAO:
Yep,Never used one until a few years ago when I swapped heads on my XJ(0331).
 
:LOL: All the "torque wrench for everything" stuff is brought to you by the foolish things people do (forget to tighten or no idea about how tight). In the 60s and 70s, a torque wrench was a specialty tool that few DIY mechanics had and virtually no tire shops used. Now they've brainwashed everyone into thinking you can't change a damn tire safely without one. I've seen engines completely rebuilt without a torque wrench and never have a problem.

Now about that Amsoil... :unsure: :ROFLMAO:
I've been doing engine work since the late 70's and still to this day never used a torque wrench nor own one .. my questioning everything was more specifically geared towards the Amsoil choice (and it's brand filter).. If you could speak to that with some sense of experience, please do :)
 
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