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35 inch tires with no lift?

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264K views 134 replies 80 participants last post by  suffolklou  
#1 ·
Hello - How feasible is it to run 35" tires with no lift on a JK Wrangler? I plan to mount front and rear stubby bumpers and rugged ridge flat fenders....
 
#6 ·
You are going to have trouble if you go offroad. The dana 30 upfront is prone to having the "C" gussets bend with a tire that size. check are in the forum and you will see that is a conversation starter.
 
#8 ·
The only difference between a 30 and 44 is the size of the ring and pinion and axle spline count.

Sleeve a 30 and dont go taller than 4.56 and you will be fine up to 35s. If you break an axle then go chomos.

I would run 37s and RCVs if I had the 1200 to throw at them
 
#36 ·
You have the jeep I wanted to buy. Wife said four door but really I think you have the perfect jeep! The LJ was a great wrangler. Yours looks so good by the way.

I agree. Jku too long and need a bigger lift IMO to look good. 4 inch on a jku is bad a though
Not sure what your trying to say here?
It's not the look I am trying to achieve but ability. For rule of thumb most feel that wheelbase to tire size should be 3:1, so the JKU wheelbase is 116"/3 = 38.6666667 so a 39" tire. To do that properly I feel you need a 6" lift. I am running 37" and it barely clears up front and the wheel well is to small in the rear to get a full stuff back there. To do bigger tires than what I have requires a lot more work and money. I will likely stick to 37"s but just go 6" lift to get more breakover clearance that I find is a problem for me and my jeep. This is why I wanted an LJ. Longer wheelbase than a TJ but not too long like a JKU. Plus it looks so good lifted with bigger tires.
 
#9 ·
I did some googling and it seems like some wrangler owners running 35's recommend the rubicon 4-door springs to provide some lift to accomodate 35's. Can anyone here say how well the stock setup of the 4-door rubicon will handle 35" tires? Is the 4-door Rubicon essentially designed to more easily accomodate 35 inch tires?
 
#10 ·
Springs on a Rubi are as hit-or-miss as the rest of the Jeep models. If you end up with spring rates of 19 (front) and 60 (rear), that's the stiffest Chrysler makes. MOST LIKELY to show up on a 4-door with the max tow package, but not guaranteed or a Rubi or any other model...
 
#12 ·
:thumb:

You've got some options for running the 35s...however, it's not as easy as just throwing on a set and being done with it. You'll need to address how to carry your spare; you SHOULD address the weak Cs on your front axle, if you're gonna wheel (I'd do it anyway, but that's just me); and, depending on your YM and current gear ratio, you may have to deal with regearing.

That's not even getting into lift/no lift.

You can make 35s work with no lift, as some of the folks pointed out above. But why? Even a minimal lift (TF leveling kit, 2" BB, etc) would give you a little extra clearance, and is relatively cheap and easy to install.
 
#13 ·
Also need to trim the pinch seam and get either new wheels or spacers. But yeah, you can do it.

What's the reason, btw? I'd vote to add a 2.5" lift to the plan to give you some more clearance.
 
#17 ·
I'd add a leveling kit, preferably one that has coils like the Teraflex Performance Leveling Kit or the EVO MFG Leveling kit. With the stock coils and aftermarket bumpers, the coils will sag in no time. 35s, 1.5" leveling kit (spacers), and chopped flares.

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#18 ·
Definitely add Gussets to the front C's. It's not that expensive to do. Highly recommend sleeves but not a must like the C Gussets
 
#19 ·
35's and a leveling kit (2" front, 1" rear). Plus my pnkich seams and rubi rails have each been trimmed.

I will NOT wheel this thing until I get some flat fenders on it, but it sure hasn't rubbed on the street even once. I can even turn full lock in each direction. Air dam has been removed.

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#21 ·
35's on stock wheels with spacers, no lift, cut fenders.... did just fine on road, didn't ever take it off road like this tho

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#24 ·
I did it for a few week while waiting on my lift to be installed. It was not ideal. I could not turn full and if I had people in the back seat it would rub on the rubi rails. I think with one inch spacer, flat finders, and a lot of offset you will be fine. It also looked bada$$. IMO
 
#26 ·
I've been running 315/70-17s on mine with no lift for about a year now.

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#27 ·
Thanks for all the feedback everyone! Seems like I'm getting some mixed feedback - some people are running 35's without any lift without issue. However, some people seem to be saying 35's without lift have practical limits, even for on-road use.

One guy posted a vid above of a white jeep doing some gnarly offroading with only 1" lift in front. The offroading in that vid is far beyond any type of offroading I would attempt in my jeep. Given these facts and given that I want to keep the gap between my tires and fenders to a minimum, does it seem reasonable to go with 35's and a 1" leveling kit for my next wrangler?
 
#30 ·
I think this should only be done with a 2 door. JKU is just to long if your planning to go offroad to tackle any thing serious. Just IMHO.
 
#33 ·
Glad that someone posted this, as was thinking about this as well. Going to get the RK 2.5 lift, as I do want to run 35s, but getting lift kit, wheels, and tires all at the same time would be too much money.
So was planning to see if I can run 35s with just a levelling kit, maybe for a year (with minimal offroading), then get the lift done later...and based on comments and pics here, seems it would work :dance: