[903577]

Years ago on other vehicles, I used to put Permatex Silver anti-seize / corrosion prevention paste on any threads I could find. In my spare time I'd remove any bolt / screws and add liberal amounts then replace them. With the bonus being, the day a repair is required you aren't fighting to get parts unstuck. A greasy vehicle is a protected vehicle, or an easier vehicle to repair.

Moving forward, I'm driving a 2015 JK Wranger. It was purchased brand new, and its a lot more technical than my previous vehicles. At first glance, some of the plugs look easy enough to access, but on the passenger side, I have no idea if its even worth attempting removal so I can grease them up???

Is it worth it? Just because you can, doesn't mean you should? Could I run into problems with all the sensors and stuff? Are the plugs indexed for the electrode gap to face a certain way? Should I just wait until the scheduled spark plug change interval then worry about it on the next set? Have I let my OCD of preventative maintenance get out of control?

 

[derf]

I wouldn't go out of my way to remove them just to put anti-seize on them. But I would put it on if I were already in there and changing them.

 

[hattitude]

I always use anti-seize on my plugs, especially when being used in an aluminum head. The dissimilar metals can lead to a plug seized in the head. I've never had a problem appling anti-seize.....

Be aware.... ant-seize acts like a lubricant. If you are one who uses the recommended torque spec when installing plugs, anti-seize CAN lead to an over-torqued plug and subsequent problems involved with over-tightening plugs. This is something to watch out for...

However, I read a post recently (I believe on this forum) about using anti-seize on Jeep plugs. Apparently many manufacturers are now putting an anti-seize plating on the threads of their premium plugs. The Champion platinum plugs for the 3.6L Jeep engine apparently have this anti-seize plating. It is suggested that if you apply anti-seize, to anti-seize plated threads, the possibility of over tightening the plug is much higher than on a standard plug. Since the anti-seize is not needed, why run the risk of an over tightened plug.

From what I've read since learning of the anti-seize plating, the general rule is: If a plug's threads have a silvery finish (probable anti-seize plating) don't apply anti-seize. If the plug's threads have a dull iron or black finish, apply anti-seize.....

FWIW........

 

[derf]

I always use anti-seize on my plugs, especially when being used in an aluminum head. The dissimilar metals can lead to a plug seized in the head. I've never had a problem appling anti-seize.....

Be aware.... ant-seize acts like a lubricant. If you are one who uses the recommended torque spec when installing plugs, anti-seize CAN lead to an over-torqued plug and subsequent problems involved with over-tightening plugs. This is something to watch out for...

However, I read a post recently (I believe on this forum) about using anti-seize on Jeep plugs. Apparently many manufacturers are now putting an anti-seize plating on the threads of their premium plugs. The Champion platinum plugs for the 3.6L Jeep engine apparently have this anti-seize plating. It is suggested that if you apply anti-seize, to anti-seize plated threads, the possibility of over tightening the plug is much higher than on a standard plug. Since the anti-seize is not needed, why run the risk of an over tightened plug.

From what I've read since learning of the anti-seize plating, the general rule is: If a plug's threads have a silvery finish (probable anti-seize plating) don't apply anti-seize. If the plug's threads have a dull iron or black finish, apply anti-seize.....

FWIW........

I hadn't heard of this plating before. Makes sense with all of the manufacturers using aluminum heads these days. Good things to look out for.

 

[Jay2011JK]

Confirmed with Champion Technical Support via phone .. Champion Plugs do come with an anti seize coating. Also, most important.. proper installation TORQUE.. Over torque you will have issues & should a plug be hard to remove check the threads in the head for dirt contamination before install new. If you decide to use anti seize its the "Brylcream - a little dab will do ya!"

 

[gobi_rubi]

Just checked in hoping somebody quoted Dodgeball...disappointed

 

[Shark_13]

A little bit of antisieze is never a bad thing.
Definitely do not have to go overboard when talking spark plugs, little dab.

 

[Big-Foot]

A little bit of antisieze is never a bad thing.
Definitely do not have to go overboard when talking spark plugs, little dab.

X2....
A little-dab’ll-do-ya.....
-edit-
Except - don’t ever use that or any other lubricant on wheel lug nuts/studs...

 

[SoK66]

FWIW, when I replaced the plugs on my '09 JKUR at around 48k miles they were difficult to break loose. I discovered Chrysler, in their infinite wisdom, had applied their waxy yellow threadlock compound to the threads before installing them. (You'll find this crap in all the wrong places, like exhaust manifold bolts.) When installing the new plugs I used a sparing amount of anti-seize on the threads. They threaded in and torqued to spec easily.

 

[Emoto]

I didn't know about this coating on SOME plugs either. That was excellent info! Will have to keep an eye out for it.

Ordinarily, whenever I change a spark plug, it gets a wee dab of anti-seize on the threads.

Other fasteners only get what is recommended by the factory.

 

[jac04]

I've replaced spark plugs in several cars with aluminum heads, and never had any issues with removing the old plugs. I have also never seen a factory service manual that specifies the use on anti-seize on spark plugs (doesn't mean that it doesn't exist, just that I've never seen it).

Whether a little bit or a lot, anti-seize should not be used on critical applications where it is not specified. Even a little anti-seize can significantly effect the coefficient of friction, which changes the load generated by the fastener being torqued.

The spark plugs are one of those critical torques. My 2014 FSM actually has the following note about the spark plugs:


CAUTION: Spark plug torque is critical and must not exceed the specified value. Overtightening stretches the spark plug shell reducing its heat transfer capability resulting in possible catastrophic engine failure.

 

[Big-Foot]

My first run-in with a striped spark plug was back in the 60’s and it was on a Porsche. Had to pull the cylinder head to repair it. It’s not a good feeling when you have to tell your customer that he’s looking at a couple hundred dollars to repair the cylinder head when it “was just fine when I dropped it off for the tune-up”.... A couple of motorcycle heads followed. Later on in years, some OEMs such as Ford with their Modular V series engines stripping plug threads and sometimes just blowing them out while going down the road, became a common every day occurance and many shops (mine included) will turn those cars and trucks away at the door.
—
Yes, absolutely you can easily over-torque a fastener or spark plug if you’re not careful. Heat transfer can be a problem for plugs, but it’s more an issue for plugs that use a gasket rather than a conical seat. What happens when the plug overheats it glazing of the electrode’s insulator. That will result in random misfires..
As I alluded to earlier, a little dab will do you in terms of making sure the threads of the spark plug (or any fastener really) do not gall or lock due to dissimilar metals...
How much is a little dab?
A small tube of anti-seize about the size of a chapstick would last me through a hundred tune-ups where I changed 6 to 8 spark plugs. Obviously less on Hemi’s since they have 16 plugs..

 

[jac04]

The FSM lists a 'dry' torque for the plugs. Lubricate the threads with anti-seize and that torque now gives you a different load for the specified torque. It doesn't matter whether you only use a "little dab" or not.

Anyhow, I've always used factory parts, following factory procedures and factory change intervals, and I've never had an issue. For the JK spark plugs there is no reason to do otherwise, especially considering the strongly-worded CAUTION note in the FSM.

 

[Shark_13]

Sure, and some people are pretty ham-fisted and will strip almost any bolt they touch...

 

[Big-Foot]

My first run-in with a striped spark plug was back in the 60’s and it was on a Porsche. Had to pull the cylinder head to repair it. It’s not a good feeling when you have to tell your customer that he’s looking at a couple hundred dollars to repair the cylinder head when it “was just fine when I dropped it off for the tune-up”.... A couple of motorcycle heads followed. Later on in years, some OEMs such as Ford with their Modular V series engines stripping plug threads and sometimes just blowing them out while going down the road, became a common every day occurance and many shops (mine included) will turn those cars and trucks away at the door.
—
Yes, absolutely you can easily over-torque a fastener or spark plug if you’re not careful. Heat transfer can be a problem for plugs, but it’s more an issue for plugs that use a gasket rather than a conical seat. What happens when the plug overheats it glazing of the electrode’s insulator. That will result in random misfires..
As I alluded to earlier, a little dab will do you in terms of making sure the threads of the spark plug (or any fastener really) do not gall or lock due to dissimilar metals...
How much is a little dab?
A small tube of anti-seize about the size of a chapstick would last me through a hundred tune-ups where I changed 6 to 8 spark plugs. Obviously less on Hemi’s since they have 16 plugs..

I should point out that the case of the Porsche and two motorcycle heads I spoke about above involved the destruction of the threads upon the REMOVAL of the spark plugs - not stripping the threads upon installation. Once the threads are galled or locked to each other, there is no turning back.
In over 50 years of swingin’ wrenches I can honestly say I have never stripped or even strained the threads in a cylinder head, nor have I ever had a plug blow out because it was not properly tightened.

 

[SoK66]

The issue I faced on my '09 JKUR 3.8L was that the plugs had been factory installed with what amounts to threadlocker. Nuts! As I mentioned above, Chrysler put the stuff in areas where it's prudent to do a follow up re-torque, like on the intake & exhaust manifold bolts. Its presence on both (I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds and replace the lower intake manifold gasket) might make some sense in terms of production processes, but why they would put it on spark plugs escapes me. I've recently had to replace the timing chain & gears, passenger side exhaust manifold and the lower intake manifold gasket as mentioned above. My conclusion is that whoever assembled this engine (US made per the VIN) was on drugs.

Once I broke the plugs free and got them out it was nice to know the threads didn't come out with them. As I did in my former life as a VW Master Tech, I put the new ones back in with a touch of anti-seize and used a torque wrench to seat them.

Like Big Foot says, I've never stripped a plug thread out, but I've had to repair quite a few where the previous gorilla decided another quarter turn was the special sauce. (The air wrench on full adds that bit of lunacy that gives a flat rater his badge of honor.) I think I still have a VW Beetle thread repair kit in my tools somewhere.

 

[jac04]

I follow the FSM for basically everything for every car I own. I've never seen a CAUTION note like the one in my 2014 Wrangler FSM when it comes to changing spark plugs. It is there for a reason.

To the OP:
You can either follow the Factory Service Manual or follow what some people on an internet forum are telling you is OK to do because they do it. It's your decision & your vehicle, so do what you want.

PS: Out of curiosity, I just checked the VW MK7 Golf FSM, and there is no use of anti-seize specified for the spark plugs, just the proper 'dry' torque.

 

[JTPhoto JK]

Most new plug wire sets come with a packet of dielectric grease to put on the boot end. Not sure neversieze will survive the heat on spark plug threads.


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[TerryC6]

Any time I am putting together 2 parts with dissimilar metals I always use anti-seize. Then again I have never used a torque wench when replacing plugs and I have changed at least 1000 plugs in my life. As far as removing the plugs just to do that I wouldn't. Getting the drivers side plugs out requires you to remove the upper intake manifold which is not hard really but just to do what you are doing seems like a waste of time.

 

[Shark_13]

The way I look at, the same people responsible for the FSM are the same that have given us things like constantly leaking doors and tops, no drain holes in frames that end up rusting out, terribly underpowered mini van engines, pcm issues, death wobble, entire dash assemblies have to be removed to replace a heater core.

I'm not terribly concerned with sticking 100% to what the FSM says all the time, common sense is best some times. To each their own.