[Jerry Bransford]

Actually I didn't post this thread. It was reposted as a separate thread by one of the mods after he added it to the Stickies section yesterday.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It sounds like you'd have no problem replacing either. The track bar is only held in place with two bolts so it's be an easy swap. Once you get the old track bar off, you'll just need to set the length of the new track bar which needs to be adjustable where its length is concerned.

Setting the track bar length is easier than it may seem at first. Once the old track bar is off, the suspension's coil springs will mostly self-center the Jeep over the top of the axle. Holding the axle centered is the track bar's job. So once the old track bar is off and the Jeep has kinda self-centered itself over the axle, jump up and down on the front bumper to finish the job... jouncing it to sound technical.

Once you have done that, bolt up the driver's side of the track bar and then simply adjust the length of the new track bar so its passenger-side mounting bolt hole matches the hole in the axle's mounting bracket. Tighten the frame-side mounting bolt to 85 ft-lbs, tighten the passenger side to 55 ft-lbs. I would replace the passenger side mounting bolt with a new metric 12.9 (its hardness rating) and I seem to recall it's size is a 10x1.5mm bolt. The factory passenger-side mounting bolt is not all that strong and since it really needs to be tightened down firmly, a new hardened bolt there is a very good idea.

If anyone knows that bolt size for sure, please post it up. That area of my TJ is no longer stock so I can't look at mine to know any more.

For the tie rod, that's not much more difficult though you need to set the toe-in per the above once you're done. Getting the tie rod ends off is only slightly more difficult physically but with the right technique, they can be popped off in just a few seconds.

Once you get to that point, post up here or PM me and the technique will be explained.

And with a 6" lift, I'm betting you're running 35" tires. For that big and heavy of a tire, I'd stop running the OE size tie rod and drag link. What you really need for at size tire is something like Currie's steering kit as you can see at Currie Enterprises TJ heavy-duty steering kit. There are cheaper sources for that kit like from Savvy Offroad.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Ive been trying to figure out my front end since i got hit three weeks ago these articles help alot but i still have questions. The alignment chart read -.3 on drive and -.5 pass so if you look at the front end the drivers side shows more negitive then pass. drives straighter then before and toes out now. What would be bent on the passenger side that is causing this? Keep in mind i have a new axle housing new ball joints and rods new hub on that side so whats the deal i feel confused because ive had to take it back to the dealer that i work at 4 times because the alignment was extremely off and there was super deathwobble at speed which the tech said it was a spring or something. no one said anything to me about the rim being bent and there is no frame or body damage

Alignment machines are set up for IFS (independent front suspension) axles so if the steering wheel isn't positioned properly, it can show a misleading slightly different toe-in for the left & right side... but they aren't adjusted separately on a TJ since it has a solid front axle... rotating the tie rod adjusts them both equally.

Adjusting (rotating) your tie-rod so the toe-in has the tires 1/16" to 1/8" closer in front than in the rear is what you want. You don't want toe-out for a rear-wheel drive vehicle, toe-out is what you set when it's a front-wheel drive.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

RWD vehicles require a little toe-in since the the tires tend move a little toe-out a tad while driving. Having a little toe-in at rest compensates for that so while cruising, the tires are pointing straight ahead as much as possible.

It's the opposite with FWD vehicles that generally require a little toe-out during an alignment.