It sure sounded good till I read more into it and heard it here from an old timer.Saved me a few bucks.

 

What did you hear about it? I installed it myself and had a leak but I think it’s on me for the install error

 

I asked a few auto engineers about this oil filter pressurizer thingey... because I'm all about keeping fresh syn oil and filters in my engine, and keeping friction and debris from shortening the engine lifespan.

Both said that there is probably such a small difference in engine life/performance that it's not measurable. And consequently not worth the time and money and effort to install.

Good enough for me. Just informed opinions. YMMV.

 

Ahhh appreciate clarification. It’s sitting in my garage unused until after my jeep clutch recall is done.

What I do appreciate about the oil filter removal with Baxter is how easy and clean removing the filter. It’s literally no mess oil change with how I do oil change. And I’m doing more changes since I off road.

I’ll reconsider whether or not I’ll put it back on.

 

Allie, I find changing the oil (and filter) on my Jeep to be significantly easier than on my old 1996 Dodge pickup. And it's even easier after having installed the Fumoto oil drain valve!

The hardest part for me with an oil change, now, is fidgeting with a short piece of hose to get onto the Fumoto drain valve, having my M.O.R.E. oil pan & transmission skid plate partially in the way (the Fumoto valve does not stick straight down over the access hole in the skid plate, but sits at a 45 degree angle to it). But even then, it is not a big deal at all.
Also, I have to jack up the front axle by a few inches, to allow my empty 5-quart oil jug (from the previous oil change) to sit upright underneath the skid plate to accept the draining oil. But none of this presents any real obstacle or meaningful hindrance.

 

What I do aAllieTheGSD_JLppreciate about the oil filter removal with Baxter is how easy and clean removing the filter. It’s literally no mess oil change with how I do oil change. And I’m doing more changes since I off road. I can see that to be a plus.How did you get in line for the clutch recall?Are doing it in some order or do you just call to schedule an appointment?

 

Nothing out of the ordinary. I bought the car in feb 2024 used, then sent the registration form to jeep which came in with the car’s manual. Then they sent me the recall letter about 4 weeks ago stating I have a recall on the clutch and I need to get it done. Seeing the post about the clutch burning down a jl in another forum prompted me to call the local jeep dealer in Ventura California. Appt is July 22.

 

I made this video last Saturday. Just a quick and dirty look at how long it takes to make pressure in my 3.6 to the filter.

The oil filter cap is a Mopar tool for checking oil pressure at the engine. It has a 1/4" NPT thread for a hose or gauge. I elected to screw the gauge directly into the cap, since I had a small Ashcroft lab gauge. The oil is Mobil 1 ESP 0w30, WixXP filter, the oil has been run a few hundred miles and the jeep sat for about 23 hours prior to this starting. Ambient temperature was about 78F.

 

I made this video last Saturday. Just a quick and dirty look at how long it takes to make pressure in my 3.6 to the filter.

The oil filter cap is a Mopar tool for checking oil pressure at the engine. It has a 1/4" NPT thread for a hose or gauge. I elected to screw the gauge directly into the cap, since I had a small Ashcroft lab gauge. The oil is Mobil 1 ESP 0w30, WixXP filter, the oil has been run a few hundred miles and the jeep sat for about 23 hours prior to this starting. Ambient temperature was about 78F.

I'd say that's pretty quick buildup of pressure? Less than a second anyway? Certainly not as lengthy as many claim...?

Makes it look like the Baxter is not worth it?

 

can you explain you’re findings? so it’s negligible?

 

You're asking me to make a conclusion on whether the Baxter provides a tangible benefit. To base that conclusion on facts I would need to know how much damage occurs in the time it takes for the oil to make its way to the critical points within the engine.

 

I have the Baxter on my 3.6L using a Mobil1 M1-212A oil filter since the Wix filters are made in China now and not by MANN anymore.
Does it work??? IDK just piece of mind I suppose. Kinda like the Start/Stop thing, I disabled mine with a Tazer Mini, I deleted the troublesome AUX battery also an it lives in my riding lawn mower and still works there just fine and it's 5 yrs old now.
Piece of mind while offroading to me. Less issues the better.

 

I deleted the troublesome AUX battery also an it lives in my riding lawn mower and still works there just fine and it's 5 yrs old now.
Piece of mind while offroading to me. Less issues the better.

Plus, that is 20 or 25 lbs of dead weight in the auxiliary battery that you are no longer carrying around, either.

Which also makes me wonder, how much lighter is my Jeep for not having air conditioning? I don't imagine that the A/C condensor and compressor together weight that much, but I've never handled those particular components in a vehicle before, either, so I really don't know.

 

It's a numbers game, all about playing the averages. Buy something cheap at Walmart, if it breaks on the first use, then you haven't lost much.


Buy some expensive durable good, and it bricks within a few months because of buried software defects, or instrinsic hardware defects are discovered, and then you're out a lot of money. It's like economic warfare. Read the story of Solo ElectraMeccanica. They designed a delightful 3-wheeler. To save a few $$, maximize profits, they let them be assembled by the party. Predictably, they bricked within a few months, and the company couldn't figure out where the defect was inserted into the works, so they're out of business.

 

So, some more, possibly relevant, information related to the delay of oil flow of the 3.6L and the Baxter adapter.

The common point in the video is about the filter being either full or empty of oil upon startup. Keep in mind, the engine in the video is quite different in the camshaft oiling system than our 3.6L engine. However, the main bearing and connecting rod oiling system is very similar.

The video mostly discusses horsepower vs viscosity. But, there's a small segment within the video that discusses pre-filling the oil filter, that I found interesting and gave some thought about how it may relate to the 3.6L oil filter system draining back after shutdown. The point that jumped at me was that while 5w20 showed a large jump in wear from not pre-filling the filter, with the higher viscosity oil, the difference in wear between pre-filled and not pre-filled was significantly lower. You can draw your own conclusions. The discussion of pre-filling of the oil filter starts around the 30:30 mark in the video.

BTW, my last oil change was from 0w30 to 0w40 with about 3500 miles total on my 2024 Gladiator engine in my 2018 JL.

 

There's a small segment within the video that discusses pre-filling the oil filter, that I found interesting and gave some thought about how it may relate to the 3.6L oil filter system draining back after shutdown. The point that jumped at me was that while 5w20 showed a large jump in wear from not pre-filling the filter, with the higher viscosity oil, the difference in wear between pre-filled and not pre-filled was significantly lower. You can draw your own conclusions.

Consider, for this purpose, the W number may be more relevant. The pre-fill insight favoring 10W-30 (or, in a warm climate, 20W-40).

 

Having worked on jet aircraft in the Marine Corps (UH-1N Hueys) and with large turbines for power plants, lots of rotating equipment (compressors and pumps) in industrial automation, I've never understood not having an electric aux oil pump in automobiles. In most of these systems both pressure and flow must be established before rotation starts. I know that longevity is not high on their lists of priorities.

 

Here's an interesting concept about the base oil viscosity (the W number). ATF is a straight-20 (like 20W-20). No one worries about whether it flows on start-up, because it's ATF.


I guess the tranny has less mechanical stress on start-up than the engine, but no one ever asks, "is the ATF flowing on start-up?"

 

There's a pump on most automatics that is driven off the input shaft. If the engine is turning, the pump is pumping. This is why towing an automatic trans vehicle with the rear tires turning is a bad thing, even if the trans is in neutchie.

 

Just to clarify, the W number is not the base oil viscosity. It is the grade assigned to an engine lubricant for passing SAE J300 cold weather performance. An oil blender can achieve these performance standards via various methods with various base oils (GrpII, GrpIII, PAO, Esters, etc. ).
Also, ATF is a multi-viscosity fluid. Hope this helps!

 

ATF is SAE 20

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/viscosity-of-various-atfs.198408/

 

Most ATFs operate in the 20 grade range. What it isn’t, is a mono-grade. It’s a multi viscosity fluid.
Low temp testing of ATF is via ASTM D2983, known as the Brookfield Viscosity due to the type of viscometer used.

 

Yes, I see that now in the Bobistheoilguy thread. Dexron III is like an SAE 20, whereas Chrysler ATF 4 is like a 10W-20, and Honda Z1 is like a 0W-20.