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Mswhitman1

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Our 2007 JKU had some smoking from the front brakes after parking and the pads and rotors were really hot. Initially, I thought it was a bad caliper, so my son and I had plans to change both front calipers, rotors, and pads. We finished the front right and as we started it up, we noticed the brake pedal sank right to the floor. Tried pumping the brakes a few times, no joy. Checked the brake fluid, no issues there. Can't find any leaks.

Today, I changed the caliper back to the original caliper, wondering if it was a faulty replacement. The pedal still wasn't able to hold any pressure and sank to the floor.

Any thoughts? I don't see any crimps in the brake line, no leaks on the floor. Fresh fluid in the reservoir. At the moment, I'm stumped (which isn't that hard to do when it comes to vehicle repairs, but we try).

For fun, attached is a pic of my son working on the brakes. Love working on the jeep with him, it's great bonding time.

Thanks all!
 

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Our 2007 JKU had some smoking from the front brakes after parking and the pads and rotors were really hot. Initially, I thought it was a bad caliper, so my son and I had plans to change both front calipers, rotors, and pads. We finished the front right and as we started it up, we noticed the brake pedal sank right to the floor. Tried pumping the brakes a few times, no joy. Checked the brake fluid, no issues there. Can't find any leaks.



Today, I changed the caliper back to the original caliper, wondering if it was a faulty replacement. The pedal still wasn't able to hold any pressure and sank to the floor.



Any thoughts? I don't see any crimps in the brake line, no leaks on the floor. Fresh fluid in the reservoir. At the moment, I'm stumped (which isn't that hard to do when it comes to vehicle repairs, but we try).



For fun, attached is a pic of my son working on the brakes. Love working on the jeep with him, it's great bonding time.



Thanks all!


Sorry to say this, but the pedal going to the floor could mean the master cylinder is failing or failed. Did you open the break lines while replacing the brakes? If so, you may have air in the lines that could cause it. I am no expert by any means, but that comes from my experiences with replacing brakes.


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It sounds like you didn't bleed the brakes? You didn't mention doing so. Adding fluid to the reservoir does nothing. The new caliper will have air pockets as well as the brake line to that wheel. You might even have air in the ABS module. That will cause the brake to go to the floor.

Just as a cautionary note, when you open/close the brake lines, don't push the pedal straight to the floor. Do short taps to build pressure, otherwise it's possible to damage the seal on the master cylinder.

I would have also replaced the hoses, since they're 12 years old.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Sorry to say this, but the pedal going to the floor could mean the master cylinder is failing or failed. Did you open the break lines while replacing the brakes? If so, you may have air in the lines that could cause it. I am no expert by any means, but that comes from my experiences with replacing brakes.


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We bled the brakes before reattaching the line to the caliper. The shop thought it was a bad caliper piston. On the original, I could understand that given they were in rough shape (the back calipers were deteriorating too), but when we installed the new one, I thought that would have taken care of the problem. I'll check out the master cylinder, but wouldn't you have some brake fluid leaking if it had gone bad?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
It sounds like you didn't bleed the brakes? You didn't mention doing so. Adding fluid to the reservoir does nothing. The new caliper will have air pockets as well as the brake line to that wheel. You might even have air in the ABS module. That will cause the brake to go to the floor.

Just as a cautionary note, when you open/close the brake lines, don't push the pedal straight to the floor. Do short taps to build pressure, otherwise it's possible to damage the seal on the master cylinder.

I would have also replaced the hoses, since they're 12 years old.
Thanks Blastek! Apologies, we did bleed the brakes and we tapped the pedal to build some pressure, but the pressure would almost immediately release.

I thought about replacing the brake line hoses as well, but they looked in surprisingly okay shape - fair point taken though through the eyes of this novice. Appreciate the tip!
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I suppose it's possible to have a master C failure right after a caliper change, but that's a heck of a coincidence. As others have suggested... it doesn't sound like a proper brake bleed was done.
Bob - entirely possible we didn't do the bleed properly. This was our first time with disconnecting the brake line from the caliper, usually we just do pads and rotors. But...never know unless you try (bit me in the butt this time, I guess!).
 
Thanks Blastek! Apologies, we did bleed the brakes and we tapped the pedal to build some pressure, but the pressure would almost immediately release.

I thought about replacing the brake line hoses as well, but they looked in surprisingly okay shape - fair point taken though through the eyes of this novice. Appreciate the tip!
If you have bled the brakes, made sure you topped off the fluid with no leaks I would guess you still have air in the lines. Keep bleeding. :) Making the brake bleeder device -
 
Thanks Blastek! Apologies, we did bleed the brakes and we tapped the pedal to build some pressure, but the pressure would almost immediately release.

I thought about replacing the brake line hoses as well, but they looked in surprisingly okay shape - fair point taken though through the eyes of this novice. Appreciate the tip!
I'm guessing it's air in the brake line. I would bleed all of the brakes at this point. I highly recommend getting a power bleeder that connects to your air compressor if you have one. Those kits come with an external reservoir to make sure that your master cylinder doesn't run dry while bleeding. It makes it really easy. Otherwise, enroll your son and use the two man method or get a hand pump bleeder (these are available at harbor freight). Start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way towards it. I would do at least 2 passes.

If you get air in the ABS module, you need a scan tool to open it up for proper bleeding.

Bleeding brakes sucks. I spent a whole week debugging a brake pedal that went to the floor on my Escape and I probably bled the system 10 times, replaced the master cylinder and bench bled the new one, and replaced all the hoses. Of course, it turned out the spring clip on the caliper was installed slightly wrong (not possible on the JK). At least that brake fluid is super clean!
 
Hello I have a 6 speed 2015 Sahara Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, I just had brand new calipers & brakes put all the way around, brakes were bled 🤦🏾‍♀️ WHY ARE MY BRAKES STILL GOING TO THE FLOOR & I HAVE TO KEEP PUMPING THEM🤷🏽‍♀️
Probably because whoever did the brake job did not properly bleed all of the air out. Didn't they drive it after the brake job? Didn't you notice the brake pedal problem as you were pulling out of the parking lot?

A bad master cylinder or defective brake booster could also cause those problems.
 
Hello I have a 6 speed 2015 Sahara Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, I just had brand new calipers & brakes put all the way around, brakes were bled 🤦🏾‍♀️ WHY ARE MY BRAKES STILL GOING TO THE FLOOR & I HAVE TO KEEP PUMPING THEM🤷🏽‍♀️
welcome
 
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