I've been in collision repair business my whole career. What I noticed about the difference between mechanic shop floors and body shop floors is that body shop floors don't seem to hold oil. It's my guess that since body shops are a dusty environment that the shop dust absorbs the residual oil after a spill cleanup.
The better mechanic shop will have a daily or at least weekly floor clean up that usually includes a solvent and flush with a hose into the shop drain. This seems to leave a patina on the floor that has a look like concrete sealer.
In body shops we occasionally have oil spills that we clean up with oil absorbent then sweep the contaminated absorbent up and dispose of it. That's about all. This leaves an oil stain that eventually goes away as the dust from sanding soaks it up and the porter sweeps it away. At least that's my observation. Since I very rarely do any body work now that I'm retired but I do all my own vehicle maintenance on 3 vehicles, I had to figure out a way to keep my shop floor clean.
In the house garage where I park my Jeep I simply put down a piece of cardboard to catch the few drips that occur because of high miles blowby.
I don't have the ceiling height in my shop for a lift so all my maintenance is with whatever vehicle up on jackstands. It's real difficult to change oil that way and not get some sort of spill.
I've found the best oil absorbent is granular Diatomite (granular diametrious earth... not the powder kind that's used for insects but the kind that's about the same shape as kitty litter). Available at Safety-Kleen, Grainger and NAPA.
I wipe up the largest part of the spill with old rags then sprinkle the oil dry to cover the entire spill. I'll let it sit a day or two then scrub it in with a brush that the previous owner of my house abandoned when he moved out. The brush is a short bristle brush with very stiff bristles and a long handle.
Pic 1- is where I scrubbed the Diatomite into a particularly dark oil stain.
Pic 2- is after a little more scrubbing. Note the wet along the seam. That's where oil soaked into the seam and wanted to wick it's way back out.
Pic 3- is after scrubbing the seam a bit.
My plan is to rent a floor polisher at the local Big Box rental and use a 17" scotch brite mat and the Diatomite to scrub off the paint drips and scrub deep into the surface of the concrete. I've got too much stuff on the floor to use a water hose to hose the shop out so when I'm done with the polisher, I'll sweep up the most of the stuff and blow the rest of it out with the air broom, otherwise known as a leaf blower. The leaf blower is also great to clean the shop out after doing a woodworking project.
Other posters should add their best methods of how they clean their shop/garage floors and driveways.
Good Luck, L.M.
The better mechanic shop will have a daily or at least weekly floor clean up that usually includes a solvent and flush with a hose into the shop drain. This seems to leave a patina on the floor that has a look like concrete sealer.
In body shops we occasionally have oil spills that we clean up with oil absorbent then sweep the contaminated absorbent up and dispose of it. That's about all. This leaves an oil stain that eventually goes away as the dust from sanding soaks it up and the porter sweeps it away. At least that's my observation. Since I very rarely do any body work now that I'm retired but I do all my own vehicle maintenance on 3 vehicles, I had to figure out a way to keep my shop floor clean.
In the house garage where I park my Jeep I simply put down a piece of cardboard to catch the few drips that occur because of high miles blowby.
I don't have the ceiling height in my shop for a lift so all my maintenance is with whatever vehicle up on jackstands. It's real difficult to change oil that way and not get some sort of spill.
I've found the best oil absorbent is granular Diatomite (granular diametrious earth... not the powder kind that's used for insects but the kind that's about the same shape as kitty litter). Available at Safety-Kleen, Grainger and NAPA.
I wipe up the largest part of the spill with old rags then sprinkle the oil dry to cover the entire spill. I'll let it sit a day or two then scrub it in with a brush that the previous owner of my house abandoned when he moved out. The brush is a short bristle brush with very stiff bristles and a long handle.
Pic 1- is where I scrubbed the Diatomite into a particularly dark oil stain.
Pic 2- is after a little more scrubbing. Note the wet along the seam. That's where oil soaked into the seam and wanted to wick it's way back out.
Pic 3- is after scrubbing the seam a bit.
My plan is to rent a floor polisher at the local Big Box rental and use a 17" scotch brite mat and the Diatomite to scrub off the paint drips and scrub deep into the surface of the concrete. I've got too much stuff on the floor to use a water hose to hose the shop out so when I'm done with the polisher, I'll sweep up the most of the stuff and blow the rest of it out with the air broom, otherwise known as a leaf blower. The leaf blower is also great to clean the shop out after doing a woodworking project.
Other posters should add their best methods of how they clean their shop/garage floors and driveways.
Good Luck, L.M.