Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

Coal Tar Epoxy Undercoat

13K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  ajjw0828  
#1 ·
Hello everyone, I wanted to document my experience with this industrial anti corrosion coating called coal tar epoxy. I bought a JK 2dr two weeks ago, and then drove it to my warehouse and parked it. Then i spent a week underneath it applying this epoxy coating to the frame and up the rockers. This was the first vehicle i have owned that wasn't rusty enough to attempt a preservation. The JK came from down south so the frame looked great.
I thoroughly washed the frame and undercarriage with degreaser and then let it dry for two days. In the mean time i purchased a cheapo undercoating gun from amazon with the intention of ruining it completely, which i did. Now the coal tar epoxy is a relatively cheap coating that is the trashy cousin of rustoleum's 9100 series, which was a little out of my price range at $200 for two gallons, one activator and one base.
The coal tar epoxy i picked up from McMaster-Carr and it came in a kit with a gallon of base, and a quart of activator, which means it mixes at 4:1 ratio. I had to sign government release forms to purchase it. Also, it can be thinned with Xylene/Xylol as with all epoxies, which is some nasty stuff in and of itself. Coal Tar Epoxy is used for corrosion resistance on bridges and pipelines that are submerged in salt water, so the salt up here in OH shouldn't stand a chance. But this stuff is gross, it will ruin everything it touches so i got a tyvek suit and some gloves and goggles and went to town.
The mixing was straight forward with a half inch drill and mixing bit. The instructions only say to prep the area with degreaser and make sure it is dry. So i loaded the gun up and clogged it instantly, couldn't even get it to work by thinning the paste beyond recognition. With the gun idea shot, i got to work painting with a 2 inch brush, and over the course of 3 days i got every part i could reach.
The coating hardened into a monster, i can hit it with a hammer, but it was so thick that my hands were cramped and wouldnt work properly for a week, and it left brush marks in everywhere. So i took some rubberized undercoating and just put a quick coat everywhere underneath and over the epoxy. It took away the glossy look which was good because it looked like crap with the brush marks.
Then to cap it all off, i filled my frame with fluid film to keep it from rusting from within. All in all, it was gross, nasty, time consuming and tiring, but i'm glad i put all that work in because i hate rust with the fire of a thousand suns and i really hope this works.
Image
 
#5 ·
This isn't a normal coating product, and i don't think it will chip at all. I can beat it on it with a hammer with no wear. Also, the fluid film will become my yearly rust proofing process, and since this coating is epoxy, it can take the abuse of pulling push pins in and out so fender removal will no longer come with the risk of pulling paint off thin sheet metal. Here is a pic of where i went with the undercoating.
Image
 
#9 ·
I work offshore in the Oil field operating and maintaining ROV's. We use Coal Tar on hydraulic pumps that go subsea. The stuff is really tough and is the best stuff we have used to prevent corrosion of the pumps. It is very nasty to deal with and extremely thick, we dont really put much concern into how it looks but i can attest to the brush strokes it leaves. We have to recoat our pumps every 6 months or so but the conditions out here are a bit on the extreme side. I really cant believe you spent the time to paint the whole underside of the Jeep with it, I know you had to be extremely worn out after the application.
 
#10 ·
All these high tech rust inhibitors sometimes just make me roll my eyes. It's not that there's anything wrong with them, I'm sure they're fine products. It just seems to me that people are constantly searching for some stuff that comes in a magic bottle and there are many companies out there willing to try and sell it to you while there has been a product out there for many years that has been a proven performer in rust protection, it is inexpensive, and when you're done spraying it all over the underside of your vehicle it makes the parts look better, as to opposed to a shinny or asphalt tar mess these other magic can products tend to do to your under side.

Anyone interested to know what it is?

It's called "Paint".

For some odd reason everyone expects "Paint" to protect the outside sheet metal of your vehicle, but at the same time keep searching for some Magic can to protect the underside. I can't figure out the logic in it, so maybe someone can explain it to me.

So how's the magic tar look? Can you post some pictures?
 
#11 ·
Coal Tar is more or less a paint, its not a high tech rust inhibitor. It is a very tough epoxy coating. I really cant believe he did the whole underside of his Jeep that stuff is very hard to apply. Its a tough job just applying it to our hydraulic pumps.
 
#13 ·
Wow thats terrible im glad we dont have to deal with it in the South.
 
#14 ·
I'm 48 now, kind of developed my own system over the years of owning cars since I was 16. In my area, it comes with the territory of owning a vehicle if you don't want it to rust away.

Every spring after the winter constant wetness and road salt, I crawl under it and look for any surface rust starting to form. I spray any rust and the surrounding areas down with this rust reformer.

It will stop the rust, and prevent it from bleeding through the truck bed coating and create a paintable surface.
Image


After that dries, which takes less than 1 hour, I then go over the top of all the parts with the truck bed coating. The truck bed coating, adds a durable protective layer and sprays on thick, and no real concern with over spray. It's all pretty simple to apply. My index finger gets tired is the worst of it, so I may buy a $3 can trigger to add to the mix. :D

Both items can be found at Harbor Freight. Costs me $3.50 a can for the rust reformer, $5 a can for the truck bed coating. My 1st time applying took me 3-4 cans of rust reformer, and 5 cans of truck bed coating. My usual spring follow up maintenance now takes me 1-2 cans of reformer, and 3 cans of truck bed coating.
 
#15 ·
As an added note. When I say I do spring touch up. It's not a lot of work. The truck bed liner is pretty durable like I mentioned, but if I drive over something hard like a rock that rubs the axles or frame rails, it will obviously scrape the paint.

Here's kind of the stuff I'm looking for in my spring touch up. Maybe a rock skipped up and chipped the paint off on that axle control arm bracket. I go around looking for things like that just to make sure I catch them before the rust starts to spread and get bad.

Image