I would be hesitant buying led lights for 20 bucks.

 

I have the Nilight brand 52w round LED's that seem to be very good quality. 2 18w lights should only be pulling around 3 amps, more than doable through a switch... just make sure to use an inline fuse!

 

You'll want the relay to power the LED in that switch when the LED pods are on.

 

No, that switch is self powered. Three leads; power, load, and ground for the light.

 

That setup will be fine without a relay.

Amps=watts/volts

In this case, that comes out to 1.5 amps per light = a total load of 3 amps. The switch you listed is rated for 30 amps.

I would install an inline fuse and 18g wire, or 16g wire if it was a wire run of 20 feet or more.

 

Something like this:

Littelfuse Blister Pack FHA30BP - Fuse Block | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

would this inline fuse be good guys?

Littelfuse Blister Pack FHA30BP - Fuse Block | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Buy one of the kits already mentioned...they have inline fuses in them already. Just remember that these kits are constant hot, so your lights can be turned on when the vehicle is off and no key is in the ignition. Also, certain switches will stay lit (depends on the switch design) when the vehicle is off and the pod lights are off.

 

I got these lights for my jeeps and they're pretty good. I use them at night on the beach for fishing. I would just get the relay to be safe.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EZ...-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wire+harness+relay&dpPl=1&dpID=51rQwWv48cL&ref=plSrch

 

I'm about to start a huge thread that might help.

Technically, for two lights pulling only 1.5 amps each, your switches should be enough. But I'd would get a harness kit anyway. It is probably cheaper and easier in the end.

I used this one:
Amazon.com: mictuning HD 300w LED Light Bar Wiring Harness 40Amp Relay ON-OFF Without Switch(1Lead 14ft 14Awg): Automotive
It does not include a switch, which is what I wanted since I got mine from OTRATTW. The kit is only $10.50 shipped (with Prime) and would be overkill for your needs. Just swap in a 5 amp fuse and call it a day.

Edit:
Just remembered, you are running pods...so you will want to something with two leads instead of one.
http://www.amazon.com/Mictuning-Wiring-Harness-ON-OFF-Switch/dp/B00EZ9Y33W/

This is basically the same as the previous poster, just a different switch (same company). The two lead versions posted are 16 awg load lines instead of 14 awg. Still fine for your lights.

 

A relay is just an electrically operated switch. Basically what happens is that small wiring and a small switch in the dash or wherever are used to turn on/off a bigger switch (the relay) that can handle lots of amps and has big wires running to and from it.

In this case, the switch the OP wants to install has a max capacity of 30 amps, which is 10 times the 3 amp draw of his lights, so no relay is needed.

All he needs for safety is a 5 amp fuse, which is slightly more than the lights. The purpose of a fuse in any system is to protect the wiring. If there's a short, the fuse is supposed to be the weak link, so that it pops before the wiring melts.

 

I agree, for his needs he does not need a relay.

But given the price of his switch ($7.49) and his inline fuse ($4.09), he would be money ahead just buying a kit, which would also provide his wires, a relay, the connectors, and heat shrink as well. It is isn't like having a relay hurts anything.

It is the exact reason why I used a heavy duty kit that only cost $10.50 shipped to hook up my 20" light bar. Unless you have everything laying around, it is cheaper (and easier) to use a kit then to source, cut, and crimp all the parts.

 

I use those lights on my back bumper as back-up lights. I've had them on for 4 months maybe, with a lot of rain, and no problemo at this point. Figured once the wiring is done, replacing the lights is a trivial 6-minute job if they tear up, and I can do it something like 8 times for the price of a good pair.

Wouldn't necessarily use them up front, but for supplemental backup lighting they're fine for me. And MAN, they work great at lighting up behind me. I back up my driveway into my parking spot every evening, and it's a windy driveway. I had already replaced the OEM bulb in the backup light with an LED bulb, which helped a lot. But I was still having trouble seeing the pax side of the driveway in my mirror. These changed everything.

I used a KCLights relay and harness and switch, like I have for all my front KCs. Probably paid too much (around $40, iirc), but I knew it would work and I'm TERRIBLE with electrical.

 

I also have these:
http://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-Lig...C2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1450284375&sr=1-1&keywords=eyourlife+led

They have been sitting in my garage for a few months. I actually plan on only using one as a rear light and I hope to hook it up this weekend. The other will just sit around the garage taking up space. If the light that is hooked up breaks, I already have a spare. For $20 shipped, and a $10 wire kit, you can't beat that price.

 

Here's a pic of mine -- the OCD among us will blanch at the asymmetry of my mounts!

 

GAAAAA!!!! So not right... OCD... arghhhh......

 

Ah, makes sense.

 

Unless you guys are switching two lights independently of each other, why are you running two wires? Why don't you just run one wire from the switch to the back and then split it to go to both lights?

 

Certainly could do that I suppose -- like I said, I was using the wiring harness from KCLights which comes with two sets of wires for the two lights.

 

I used these on my rear bumper, work great at about $20: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...oduct/B00NPQUYM0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=A12A3GM6KYLIDT

https://goo.gl/photos/wQWoQA8NyaDsZEnz5

Built my own SPOD like relay package for all my lights for under $100 usung mil spec aircraft grade wire and Cooper Bussman's relayfuse combo box: http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46343/Cooper-Bussmann-15303-2-2-4-Mini-Fuse-Panel-/ Wire: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=WIRE2

https://goo.gl/photos/yHQaWbWHaS3gqtN8A

https://goo.gl/photos/56p3ewemiJ8XKHU79

https://goo.gl/photos/ieMXeShgJPDptLsV8

https://goo.gl/photos/UUfzy38qnv3Pa4gWA

https://goo.gl/photos/Yq1oSJYMUQw7ajDv6

https://goo.gl/photos/NiKpdBV7KF2LNcdw7

https://goo.gl/photos/Svfm21kxXchAGTi68 Click on photo to watch video

https://goo.gl/photos/EWmYHWAwQEHQ6Rx16

https://goo.gl/photos/yqvyosbpENE5js7u6

I'd insert as photos, but all I get is the little missing image symbol, I can build a pod, but cannot upload a photo, go figure! Thinking about doing a video on the build. The most difficult part id getting all the right contacts and seals. The mounting system is s single pice of .060 alum with one 90 degree.

 

Any of you guys with the reverse lights have them come on when you put the vehicle in reverse?

I'd like reverse likes on the rear bumper that come on when the vehicle is in reverse as well as working independently with a switch. Would that be hard to do?

 

I thought about installing my rear light tomorrow....but it is going to be too cold.

With that said, I plan on eventually buying and wiring some other lights (rock lights and halo's) using a 3 way switch (on/off/on) with one on being ignition only (standard switched power) and the other on being when whenever the parking lights are on.

So in "on" #1 for the switch - As long as the key is in the ignition and turned, the halo's or rock lights will be on. They cannot be turned on if the vehicle isn't in on. I don't want lights on constant hot where I might forget to turn them off. This should allow me to run halos or rock lights exactly like any other lights on a switched circuit.

In off, lights are off.

In "on position" #2 for the switch - The lights should come on whenever the parking lights are on. So when the headlights or running lights are on, these lights will be on. The difference between this "on" and the #1 "on" is that in this on, when the vehicle is off and you lock/unlock your doors with the fob, or hit your remote start, the rock lights or halos will flash/come on as well, even though the key is not in the ignition.

The point of all that is that is should be possible to use a 3 way rocker to give you the option of running the light tied to the reverse light, and also to turn it on manually.

With all of that said, check your state laws as in might be illegal to have such a bright "reverse light".

 

Depends on ow you wire your relay, switching ground, or power to the activation coil. If switching power, I would think you could parallel that line with a line from your existing backup lights. Not sure if this would affect anything on the CAN buss system. I'm not an artist, but something like this:

 

DIY Switch/fuse pod

Finally figured out the photo upload! Here goes again::bop:

I used these on my rear bumper, work great at about $20: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A12A3GM6KYLIDT

Built my own SPOD like relay package for all my lights for under $100 usung mil spec aircraft grade wire and Cooper Bussman's relayfuse combo box: Welcome to Waytek Wire: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...?GroupID=WIRE2

Pre-wired the switch control lines that get run across the firewall and then into the inside pillar switch or switch area. Every other odd fuse slot is actually used to fuse the load feed, pin 30 of relay in my setup, and I used fuse slot 2 for fusing the power run that feeds the switches. This single power run to the switches is low current and is fanned out at the switches, which then each switch feeds back to pin 85 on the associated relay energizing its activator coil when switch is closed. I have only 3 loads so far, thus 3 relays in place:

White Tefzel jacketed aircraft wire, every other green plug is removed and load wires placed once in vehicle.

The main battery line, in red, is also fused between the relay box and battery:

Slotted holes allow slipping over screw heads I placed in the plastic shield in fender wall beside battery:

Screws in place for plate, just tight enough:

I think I got this correct!

The most difficult part is getting all the right contacts and seals. The mounting system is single piece of .060 alum with one 90 degree bend and 4 holes, 2 of which are slotted. DISCLAIMER: I learned to build this from another blog somewhere, it is not original!

 

On the topic of harnesses though, my local Autozone has a LED harness for $7-8. I bought one recently just to acquire parts for a project because that kit was cheaper than buying the parts separately.

 

LOL!
I just finished doing that a few seconds ago. Yup, it is cheaper to use parts from another harness than source them myself.

I kinda lucked out. My 20" light bar had 4 LED's go out (yeah, it sat in my garage for 10 months, and when I finally hooked it up, 4 went out). So I emailed the dealer and they sent me another one for free....but it also came with a heavy duty wiring kit.

I purchased a HD wiring kit for my original light bar about two weeks ago and I was pretty impressed with it. About a week ago I purchased a 2nd one after a lot of debating because I knew that the power/ground leads would not be long enough. I'm going to hook up a rear LED that needs to be wired through the rear gate and up to the 3rd brake light....so I'm guessing at least 16 feet. But with the extra kit, I now have a total of 3 HD wire kits. One harness is already installed for the front LED. The other is sitting on my living room floor and is now at least 20 feet long because I cut the 14awg, shrink wrapped power/ground leads from one harness, crimped on some connectors, and added it to the power ground leads of the other harness.

Viola! A 20 foot, heavy duty, pre-wired, pre-wrapped harness.

Plus I now have about 6 feet of spare 20awg wires (white, black and blue) to create jumpers for my rocker switches. All of this will eventually be switched over to a custom Bussmann....but I'll keep the wiring as is.

:iamhappy:

 

I tend to use a relay on everything. Yes this is different than what I originally planned, but with age comes wisdom (or so I've been told).

I'm also using very low powered switches, so I'm pretty sure I could easily exceed the current rating of my switches (they're only 3A switches).

I'll be adding what I'm going to call reverse lights to my HR rear bumper, but in actuality they're just a couple of water proof flush mount LEDs. They'll draw almost no current (37mA each), but I'll be using a relay and hooking them up to a switch so that they're only lit when I want 'em to be.

I also enjoy playing with anything electrical, so I would rather make my own wiring harnesses, etc. Yes, it's probably more expensive, it's more of a PITA, but I like it.

back to the OP's question. It's never a bad idea to include a relay, but as was stated above, you probably don't NEED one for your application.

good luck

Exco

 

Not saying all quality is the same, but you can just about bet all the LED's used in off road lighting are made in China. The biggest difference is probably the quality of the package. Even Cree will outsource most of their mid power chips from China. Marketing!

http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20150625PD206.html

 

I have that relay switch for my 2 frame Spotlight's, I also was looking at those LED podlights from amazon ^^^. My question is would I be able to hook the LED pods to the spotlight wiring and have them all run off the same switch?

 

I know this isn't my thread, and it's not my intent to hijack it. I'm also installing LED pods. Based on the advice given by @panthermark, I got one of the mictuning harnesses. Can I cut off the switch and replace it with something that'll last more than four clicks? That thing is CHEAP (even for a Chinese product!). If so, what color goes to what pins on the switch? I *think* the wires are red, black and yellow.