You need a pickle fork, also known as a balljoint separator, available at any auto parts store. You dont need to get an alignment, but you will need to ensure that the drag link is set at the same length as your old one before you install it, if you have the steering wheel off by a full turn you will have problems. After you install it, you just need to fine tune the drag link so that your steering wheel is centered.

 

Hello, I have a 2009 JK Unlimited X, I have 32" tires without a lift, and no other mods. Jeep mostly used for highway driving with very occasional off-roading during the summer months. I just had the ball joints replaced by a mechanic due to the death wobble, which fixed it, but was also told that I would soon need to replace the drag link. Since then the wobble has begun again. I am handy with tools, but have limited auto knowledge and have not done this repair before. I am thinking about doing it myself as the mechanic said it is not that difficult and I do like working on my Jeep myself if I can. Any recommendations on a drag link that is not too expensive? (Hoping to spend under $200) Any tips on replacing these? Special tools required? And should I get my alignment checked following this? I am in the Denver area if anyone would be interested in helping out! Thanks!!

Hi
There are people on this forum much more knowledgable than me however if your having death wobble problems I would check the trac bar and make sure it's tight.
It might be necessary to change to 9/16 I believe on the trac bar.
The drag link might help short term but may not be the problem.

 

Hi There are people on this forum much more knowledgable than me however if your having death wobble problems I would check the trac bar and make sure it's tight. It might be necessary to change to 9/16 I believe on the trac bar. The drag link might help short term but may not be the problem.

Agree ^^

 

I recently replaced just the drag link end at the pitman arm and was not too difficult. I tried the pickle fork and it would not work for me at all. I had posted a a how to guide for replacing the drag link end, but it will help you if you are replacing the entire drag link. I also posted pictures of the tool I used to separate the drag link from the pitman arm.

Here is my "how to" post

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/my-how-to-guide-to-replace-the-drag-link-end-at-the-pitman-arm-1300841.html

 

Pickle fork works just takes a BFH.

 

^^ yep! :thumb: completely agree Ken, BFH is the tool of choice. most folks are a little unnerved at the thought of smacking the pitman arm with one though...

 

:wavey: i heard a rumor your jeep has 2 more doors ?

 

I tried a pickle fork and beat the hell out of it and the pitman arm and my drag link would not budge. After 30 minutes of beating on it, I thought that I may break something. So, I bought the tool below and it took just a few minutes to pop the drag link loose.

 

use a really heavy hammer? you need like a 3# sledge. typically a tap or two right on the face of the pitman arm and it'll pop.

 

Yes, I bought a 2.5 lb sledge hammer and beat the pickle fork. I also beat on the face of the pitman arm hoping that the vibration would pop the drag link loose but it did not work. The tool I posted above pushes the drag link stud out of the pitman arm. I got the bolt on that separator tool so tight that I thought the tool would break, but luckily it didn't. The drag link end finally popped loose with a very loud bang.

 

Apply some anti-seize in the taper. Makes life much easier next time around.

 

Thanks!

Hey guys, thanks for all the tips and advice. I definitely think I'll give it a go myself. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for the play-by-play FreedomJK!

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...2358&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxv7_9eDs2gIViYCfCh3A0gVTEAkYASABEgJ-r_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.

You should be able to use a hammer to separate the drag link from the knuckle and pitman arm. Since you're not reusing it don't worry about mauring the ends up. I have been looking at replacing this on my 2014 JK 2dr as well. The clamp that holds the two sections together flexes and can cause oscillations that you feel in the steering wheel and tires. I tried tightening my clamp down and it just keeps bending the metal, preventing you from getting it too tight. It has an open side, so even if I could get it tighter it would probably still flex some. There is a company that creates a clamp that is supposed to absorb the oscillations, but I would imagine a complete one-piece drag link replacement would be a much better alternative due to the fact they are about the same cost.

 

I put a MOOG drag link on my black 09.. for the money it's pretty heavy duty and with your setup you might never wear it out.