If it was pouring out that fast, then yeah, you probably over-heated it, but did you notice anything on the dash? It should have dinged and your temp gauge would have gone up if it did. Any possibility you didn't actually over-heat it?

Plugs, PCV, coils if needed.

 

Temp gauge was dead center, where it normally is after it’s warmed up, no chime, nothing but normal I suspect the coolant was evacuated rather quickly from the engine, thus the reason the temp looked normal. I found some leakage in the gaskets between the cylinders, before I took it apart, so I pulled the heads. A straight edge unfortunately has a variance of about .050 from the center of the left head to the rear, the right head is at .040, so they are warped. Just happy the block didn’t crack.
I will add plugs, PCV and coils to the list. I would rather get what I can while it’s apart.

 

If your cylinder heads also need replacing, this can get expensive. With that many miles on it, you maybe better off to take a look at a Jasper replacement engine. Or a Mopar engine.

 

I recently finished the aluminum Dorman upgrade as well. Easy decision to go with that part. While I was in there I also did the fuel injectors and wiring/wiring harness that connects to the injectors. Through so many heat cycles the plastic clips on the injectors were so brittle, many broke on the tear down.

 

How did you verify that the block isn't cracked or warped?

 

It didn't smoke at all, and the oil doesn't have any coolant in it, and the coolant doesn't have any oil. I found the gasket issue with a leak down test. Knowing what I know now, I should have compression tested it as well, but would have thought I would see oil and coolant contamination and/or smoke. I guess I will know for sure once I get the heads figured out and put it all back together.

 

Finally have it back together. The local head shop was able to mill the heads back into spec's, they said the cam, rocker arms, valves, and lifters are good, no need to replace them. Fel Pro Head Gasket set installed, had to replace a few of the head studs, new sensors for oil cooler, but overall not bad. I replaced the oil cooler with the Dorman, bought the complete unit, a tip for those replacing oil coolers, I used a dab of RTV to keep the gaskets in place while I installed it. Replaced the battery since I had everything disconnected anyway, it was 5 years old, probably on borrowed time. Replaced the plugs, PVC, and decided not to touch the wiring harness, it was still in good shape, no corrosion, no heat damage, and decided to leave the injectors as I was starting to get a little light in the wallet. Compression numbers look good, 140 was the highest, 130 was the lowest, so within specs. Not bad for 120,000 on the clock. This was an expensive oil cooler leak, thankfully I have a shop and the tools at the house to do it, so I was only out parts.
While it was sitting, I went ahead and swapped out the steering links and dampner, as well as the trackbar with a MetalCloak I bought about a month ago. Started to get the death wobble, so it was time.
Drives like a new Jeep again. Hopefully I can get another 100,000 out of it before I throw a reman in it, or trade it for something newer.

 

Not bad. I was fearful of pulling the heads off with the timing chains.

 

I was as well, but I used this video, I just didn't remove the oil pump gear and chain in the beginning. Taking the from grill off, and radiator out gives you enough room. Wasn't as bad as I thought.