[Holton345]

... have a look at a product called Fertan.

That is the name of the company. There is no product called Fertan and they make a lot of stuff. There are at least four rust products. Which one are you talking about, specifically, and can it be purchased in the US? No matter how inexpensive it may be, importation duties on chemicals is very high, so I can only get it if it is already available in the US. Thanks.

 

[Holton345]

... lots of great stuff...

Thanks! I am off to a good start, then, based on what you have posted. :thumb:

 

[Holton345]

The only way I removed the loose rust inside the frame was using a pick-up magnet (Lisle Brand) through the larger holes in the side of the frame. Tried vacuuming, water, compressed air, etc... It will take more time than you think but eventually it came clean. Drilled four 1/4" drain holes on the bottom on the frame, flushed with water a few times.

Then applied the Eastwood internal, I plan on redoing the Eastwood again just for good measure.


After one year no more rust flakes appeared on the inside. About once a month I flush out the frame with a hose.

Thanks for your response, man!

 

[Holton345]

Here you go!
Go to FERTAN: Rust Converter and Long Term Corrosion ProtectionÂ*|Â*Fertan.com
Click on sales points, click American flag.

FERTAN Korrosionsschutz Vertriebsgesellschaft mbH
CRP Industries
35 Commerce Drive
Cranbury, NJ 08512
08512 NJ - Cranbury
+1 248 760 7393
TPotter(at)crpindustries.com

Okay, found it.

https://www.amazon.com/Fertan/b/ref..._dp_s_web_8301530011?ie=UTF8&node=8301530011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Fertan

 

[Holton345]

Lots of good ideas posted. If you check out my thread here I have a write up with pictures on how I did it but the short of it is below.


Drilled two access holes in the rear of the frame behind the bumper.

Back out muffler hanger bolts on the right side or it will catch and twist up your sweep extension (ask me how I know)

Attach sweep to drill and let her rip!

Getting another extension so I can do the entire frame

My only concern is if it snaps or breaks loose there is little chance I will be able to get it back out so be very careful and don't put the drill in reverse or it will unscrew the sweep head from the extension. I am also going to get the next size up for sweeps because it didn't quite get every surface.

McMaster P/Ns
6413T43 72" sweep extension (get two) (10$ each)
7232T21 3" Brush (the one pictured)($14)
7215T25 T-Handle (backup if you cant pull out with the drill) ($11)

Thanks! I will look into this. Not sure I am willing to cut such large holes in the crossmember into the frame rails. But I probably will cut holes regardless. I have some good frame tie-ins, so the structural integrity should still be fine as long as the bumper is installed.

Thanks for the link and the PNs. Always very handy to have!

 

[Holton345]

The holes in the back of the frame should have no effect on structure. If you are concerned about it I would say to just weld the piece back in when you are done, no harm no foul!

I will be cutting some tomorrow and then pressure washing out the rails. Thanks again!

 

[Holton345]

Nice! No problem happy to help, don't go shy with the degreaser it helps allot. I am not sure where you are located but I strongly suggest waiting for some warm weather before spraying the internal paint or just garaging it for a few days. The stuff takes forever to cure in my garage with heat up to 75! It tends to pool and those piles take forever to properly cure if they do at all. Its been a week and its still easy to pick at with my fingernail

Understood. :thumb:

 

[Holton345]

Came up with two cool tools to help with this. I made an air gun flexible extension with a 24" grease gun hose with 1/8" NPT fittings.

I really like the rubber air hose tips that come in those cheap air gun attachment kits. They have the smallest opening and make the highest pressure (of what I own). The are also of a shape and length that allow them to be fully inserted into the frame rails through the factory holes. (My other air gun tips are either too long or fat or have a shape that sort of buries itself into the nutserts and such.)

So the air gun is 1/4" NPT but the tip and the fittings are all the smaller size, so I installed the two foot grease gun hose between the air gun and the rubber tip. I had to use a 1.8" NPT female/female coupler to mate the tip to the hose, since the hose is male/male. Total cost was about twenty bucks with shipping, and it works really well.

I also spent about a hundred bucks on a thing I wanted for the plumbing in my old (1937) house. I already owned a very decent electric pressure washer (1.4 GPM/2000 PSI) that I bought after a lot of research. I needed one that was not gas powered so that I could store it indoors. I ended up with the AR Blue Clean 390 SS. Very nice. The thing I just bought is a new product (came out last month) that is a smaller version of what my neighbor has. (He has some behemoth gas powered pressure washer and he was using this thing to blow out his slow sewer pipe to the street. It was called a Clog Hog.

Clog Hog just released a comparable product for electric pressure washers as small as mine and they make a nice adaptor so it fits my specific brand perfectly. It it a great little head on a flexible plumbing hose made small and short enough to clear elbows and (I think) 180º sink traps. I got it for that reason, specifically.

It think it would work in the TJ frame's factory holes, at least for most of the frame, however, I *did* add in holes to the thin crossmember now that my rear bumper is off.

They are not all that large. When the Clog Hog thing arrives I will open up these two holes if needed, but the tip of the sprayer looks to be pretty small, so maybe I won't have to open them any more. (They are 1/2" OD at the moment.)

With this hole at the rear of each rail I can fish the Clog Hog into the rail all the way up to the front bumper, turn it on and slowly pull it out. That ought to fully dislodge any remaining loose junk or gunk. Since I am attaching it to my pressure washer I can run some degreaser up in it first, let that sit for a bit, then do it again with just water to clean out the inside of the rail fully.

Afterwards I can use my camera to spot any remaining rocks or rust flakes and work to get them out.

I like the idea of the super long Eastwood-type hose for the Internal Frame Coating stuff. I could do it the same way, snake it in from the rear up to the front bumper, then start spraying and withdrawing the hose until I get to the very end.

It seems that using the Clog Hog (I love that name) to completely pressure wash the inside of the frame, then using the extended blow out hose to help me get out any remaining chunks and such, and finally the long hose for the Eastwood cans would get me a very thorough rust treatment that I will never have to worry about.

Here are some pics. The first one is of my homemade blow out gun for inside the frame. The second one is of the tip of the Clog Hog, and the last is of the Clog Hog package. Hope this is of use to folks doing research for this Eastwood Internal Frame Coating project. Merry Christmas, folks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWAcTQ9qWlQ

 

[Holton345]

I tried using an extra long tube to apply the eastwoods and ended up cutting it down. The reason is if you have it sitting in the bottom of the frame and not suspended in the middle it will pool even worse in the bottom. By going in all the different holes and holding it off the bottom it reduces the amount of pooling. I tried rigging something up that help it in the middle but its was easier/better to just go by their instructions. I did find that twirling the tube a bit during application gave the best coverage. Try experimenting with some scrap material first it was very helpful to figure out the trick to using it. that power washer attachment looks legit very nice find!

Yeah, I am stoked to get it. They have a radio commercial jingle on their site that is hilarious.

Regarding the long Eastwood hose: great info. I will just use what came with the cans and try what you suggested (twirling) to see how that goes.

Did you do your tub torque boxes, too? I got one can of the black for them so I could more easily see against the primer inside them. Sort of the opposite of the green in the black frame - color offset.

I will post back with pics when I am done and share my results with the Clog Hog and my homemade air gun extension. I bought the purple Simple Green HD to degrease inside the frame and then will blast it out with many gallons of plain water.

I think this is going to go pretty well...

Hope your Christmas went well. :happyyes: