I put a detroit truetrac in the front d30 on my 2013 about month ago love it no problems .Or are you talking about traclock ?, you can get that from factory

 

Nope, I did mean the Eaton Truetrac. Thanks. Glad to hear that yours is working:thumb:

 

The Eaton Truetrac LSD is not the same as the stock Trac-loc LSD. Totally different differential. The Eaton Truetrac has superior traction performance compared to the stock LSD and it can be used in the front or rear axle with no problems. It is a gear driven unit where the stock LSD is clutch based. The Eaton Truetrac is easily the best LSD available for the JKs.

 

Not to dispute what you say but I was under the impression that the trac-locs were also a gear driven LSD, is this incorrect.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys, glad to hear that some newer Wranglers are not having an issue. I actually had 2 retailers deter me from purchasing front and rear Truetracs for my Jeep. I'm a little confused as what to do right now. I'd really like to find out what happened to the individuals who had problems before I spend all that $$$ on gears and differentials.

 

2012 here but figured I'd weigh in.

I dropped a trutrac in the rear when I regeared. Love it. Very helpful on and off road.

 

Thanks! You have one great looking Jeep Barmanvarn! Can't wait to get mine closer to the clouds! Yours has the same set up I'm wanting to do.

 

Hey, appreciate the compliment. It's a slow work in progress.

 

I believe the 2009 and earlier Truetracs did need to have the holes enlarged for some gear ratios, no longer an issue. Eaton re-designed them and beefed up the case at the same time. Now rated to 37" tires.

Ran TrueTracs front and rear in my 07 JK for many years with zero problems. Suprisingly good hookup for an LSD. Locker traction with no lurching and popping in turns.

You can drag the brake a little to trick them into locking up if your not getting full posi.

Bought them from Summit Racing, just ask for a discount.
Eaton reccomend Timkin bearing and shim kit for the install. No special modified friction gear oil need like the TracLoc, standard 90 wt is fine with the TrueTracs.

 

I am running TrueTracs front and rear in my 13 and they are fantastic.

No noise and easy/smooth lockup.

They have been in there for a year now.

 

Thanks for reply. Glad to hear your are also not having any problems. Today I found a performance axle and suspension shop about 80 miles from my home. I called them and asked them the same questions. They don't believe that there should be any any issue. They're looking into it and am going to call me back next week.

I also noticed in your signature that you installed 4.56s with 35" tires. Are you happy with the performance, drivability and mpg? Did you sleeve or truss your front axle? I'm still trying to decide on 4.11s or 4.56s.

 

Truetracs front and rear, 4.56, 35" duratracs, love it love it love it!

 

My 2013 JKU has the factory LSD and it is great for daily driving.
My 09 Rubicon unlimited sucks for daily driving without any kind of LSD.
4wd hi just to get going on wet pavement in the Rubi. I have been considering the Eaton Truetrac, but not sure I want to tackle the install myself. My history with paying for work to be done usually ends with me being disappointed. So I am not real eager to go that direction either.

 

Seems more is on the way, although my area is just rain and ice.

 

Got the quote today.

Dana30 axle sleeved and gussets welded : $577.26
Dana30 4.56's and Eaton Trutrac installed : $684.16
Dana44 4.56's and Grizzly Locker installed : $684.16

The above is just labor charges. I'm going to contact them tomorrow since they quoted me for a Grizzly locker for the rear instead of a Trutrac

They're prices for the ring and pinion sets and front and rear diff's are comparable to what I can get them on line for. I think they're install prices are a little high.

 

Best prices I found for the truetracs online after shipping was at www.drivetrainamerica.com

I am not sure how much more is involved installing new gears when adding a truetrac but i wouldn't think that much. Why would you do auto locker in the rear vs truetrac? Do you play in the rocks or get wheels in the air.

Btw where are you located?

 

I called Eaton today just to get some information from the manufacturer and 14JKU is correct If I keep my stock gears I need to drill out the holes to fit the bolts, but If I regear like you are MarksJKU then it will bolt right up. The Max tire size I plan to run is 34s I don't think there is really any reason to regear. I might just stick with my original plan to do the front since I have the factory LSD.

 

Glad to hear Eaton actually talked to you about these. I called them last week and the guy who picked up sounded like he didn't even want to give me the time of day. He told me since they're application chart only went up to 2012 it was my problem and I would have to contact other installers to see if they're (Eaton's) product would work in a 2014. That's one of the main reasons I started this thread.

 

And it's not a big deal to drill out the Truetracs. Just find a competent machine shop that has the necessary equipment.

 

From an MPG perspective 4.56 gears would put you at ~3000rpm at 80mph with 34s about the tru size of 315/70r17 and ~3080 rpm with 33s which is the tru size of 285/75r17. I would think that would hurt MPG, although that is the 3.6s powerband.

What I find really interesting is that when people use the gear ratio chart they use the MFG tire size and not the mounted tire size. Whatever size you enter in your programer is the size you should use. My 33s are really 32s and if I got 34s that measure 33 with 3.73 gears it would put me at 2522 rpm at 80mph and ~2200 at 70 MPH, but in 4th gear it would only be ~2660 at 70mph and ~3040 at 80mph. Which is not bad if you had to downshift to climb a hill at 70 and at 80 its where you would be with 4.56 gears. So you actually have an OD for MPG and as I remember your supposed to turn off OD when towing.

This is just how I see it. I am an engineer so I like to look at all the numbers.

With regard to drilling out its no big deal the site I posted will do it for you for an extra $135 which is still cheaper than ordering from some other places.

Edit: just thought i would add if you have a 6 speed your 5&6 gear are like the 5 speed 4&5. The auto and manual 4&5 are both 1:1 and 5th in the Auto is 0.83:1 and the manual is 0.84:1 so the results at those speeds would be very similar.

 

At the end of the day I would do 4.56 I were you since you are already going to have it all open. It will give you the better performance you want and you can always go up to 35s if its to much gear lol.

 

Thought about that to :thumb:

 

One more thing to consider. (Like there's not enough to think about) Just about everyone always gets fixated with highway mpg. IMO we need to look at typical every day driving conditions, which include city and hilly/mountainous interstates. If you switch to a much larger tire size than stock and don't re-gear, you city mileage will drop drastically eliminating any highway gains you experience at a lower rpm from not re-gearing. For sake of argument, let's say that my stock Jeep cruising around town doing about 30mph would probably be in 4th gear. This works out to 1312rpm. If I didn't re-gear, my Jeep with 34's would probably be cruising in 3rd gear all the time (at a much higher rpm) because the rpm's in 4th would only be around 1105rpm. For me, since at least half of my daily commute is in towns and on hilly highways, the constant downshifting into a lower gear in town and out of overdrive on the highway needs to be considered. The worse case for me would be to keep it between 65mph and 70mph on the highway which is what I normally drive at anyway.

 

That's kinda what I was also Thinking about. I actually did a cost analysis today to see if I should stay on the parkway an extra 7 miles and pay a toll or get off and sit in traffic. Since its $1.50 extra round trip I would have to get 3mpg better from staying on the highway in order for it to be worth it. In all honesty traveling at 80mph wind resistance is probably killing my MPG over rpm. If I do get trutracs installed I might look for a lighly usee set of 4.10 as they would be perfect for my 33s or 34s.

I really don't need the trutrac but I want it. It would also help with our poor winter weather.

 

I'm also going to give that place in NJ a call for a quote. I'm familiar with the area. I've done a lot of camping at Holly Shores campground, near Cape May. Thanks for the info!

 

Trying to decide if I want to do this now and if I really need to sleeve and gusset.

 

You don't need to sleeve and gusset. Not now anyway and probably never. I have TT's front and rear. Take my advice.

It's a lot of money but you'll be glad you have them. Get them now while you have the money...