If instead of cranking you cycle key on and off three times waiting about 5 seconds between each switch from on to off before you crank then does it start first crank?

If it does i would suspect check valve on regulator attached to fuel pump back in gas tank

You can test of your fuel rail has a Schrader valve pressure port and you attach a fuel pressure gauge and check rail pressure before you turn key to on first time

 

If instead of cranking you cycle key on and off three times waiting about 5 seconds between each switch from on to off before you crank then does it start first crank?

Why 3 times versus turning key on for a couple seconds before cranking?

 

I'm living with this also, wife's XJ will start if you sneeze on it must my TJ always second crank. I replaced the regulator atop the fuel tank, but I think the regulator is in the pump itself. Also it could be a dirty/leaking injector, dropping your static pressure on top of your piston.

 

Correction: I think the CHECK VALVE is in the pump itself

 

Three should be enough just want to make sure he gets three good pump initial bursts before he attempts start

Could do more but three should be plenty if it is the issue and it currently starts after two cycles with a little cranking time in the middle

 

If you just leave the key on the pump runs once and shuts off, waiting for a crank of the engine. If you cycle the key a few times the pump runs each time.

 

Mine sometimes sits a week or two before its next trip to the ranch or mountains.
If I immediately crank, it will go 3-4 seconds before starting.
If I turn the key on and wait a couple seconds, it starts within 1-2 seconds...usually 1.
Original fuel pump assembly at 80K miles.

 

It is leaking down if that happens

Mine has hidden kill switch that disables fuel pump. If I let it sit for weeks and forget to disable kill switch it still starts quick and runs for a few seconds before coughing from fuel starvation. All on residual pressure from 2 weeks ago

98 sport with original pump and under 40k miles

 

It is leaking down if that happens

Yep, but it fires almost instantly if it sits for only a couple days.
My first TJ went 200K on original, so I am hoping to put off dropping the tank for a while.

 

Thanks for the feedback - I will try to cycle the key and see if that makes a difference.

 

Turning the key on-off-on several times will give the fuel pump more time running so it can get fuel back up to the fuel injectors. My last fuel pump got so bad I had to cycle mine 7-8 times before it'd start.

The cure is simple, replace both your fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator which can be found as an assembly like below. It's leaking and allowing the fuel to drain out of the engine instead of staying up next to the fuel injectors so the engine can start right up.

AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE Airtex, Spectra, and local store-brand fuel pumps. They will fail prematurely and you'll regret having installed them. Instead, go strictly for Bosch or Mopar, those are the only two brands that hold up.

This is what the assembly looks like that you want... don't buy any of the kits without everything shown here because the leaking can occur in either the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator... there's no sense betting which is bad so pay a little more and buy the complete assembly as shown.

Make sure the gas tank is as empty as possible before starting the job.

 

My buddy's Jeep did the exact same thing as yours and he just replaced the fuel pressure regulator to fix it...not a problem since. It will save a hell of a lot of money over an entire fuel pump assembly if that's all it is.

 

Good news: With a few tools and eye protection dropping the tank on a TJ isn't that hard...

 

Especially if it is not very full

 

Mine never is lol

 

Im having this same issue.... when i goto drop the tank, is the skid plate holding the tank up or is the tank itself held up on its own? I ordered a poison spyder skid plate and it says it goes over the stock skid plate so i was planning on doing the new pump/reg at the sametime.

 

Skid plate holds it up. There are two nuts on the rear that should have a rubber cap on them... Don't take those of until you have the skid on the ground as those are the tank strap nuts. Really easy to break.

If you are going the poison spyder route, you will run into axle clearance issues if you lean your pumpkin back too far. For your money, the Savvy skid will be the far better choice. Also, the poison spyder GTS just wraps the stock skid whereas the Savvy skid doesn't use the stock skid.