There are lots of options. You can’t tow it stock but you can go the base plate route (Blue Ox, Demco) or a new bumper with tow points. Currie may also make a skid plate with tow points. You’ll get lots of opinions on what bumpers are safe. I chose one from LOD because it’s rated for towing. There are other brands as well.

I use a tow bar that has a surge brake system that is connected to the brake pedal. Others go with an electric system that pushes the pedal. Again, lots of options and opinions. Do a search online for a 2020 dinghy guide and you’ll find a website that discusses the different options and has lots of ads for companies.

I also have a 5k limit and have to watch my upgrades. I pushed it about as far as I can go with upgrades, but I’m very happy with my Jeep. I hope you enjoy yours too.

 

You'll want to check out Etrailer.com for loads of information including what gear you'll need and even instructional videos on how to install it.

My WK2 (Grand Cherokee) was equipped to flat tow using primarily Blue-Ox gear. That thing went crazy on me with an electrical gremlin so I traded it on a 2020 JL Sport S last month. I'm now equipping my JL to tow 4-down behind my motorhome. In fact, the gear will be here tomorrow. I'm saving a pant-load of cash by doing all the install my self, but there are installers who will do it for you. Doing it myself, I spent probably $2,500 on gear the first time around with the WK2 (wiring, tow bar, base plate, cables, brake module, etc). You can expect to pay probably close to $1,000 for installation depending on what you get and where you go. This time, all I needed was a vehicle specific base plate (went with Blue Ox again), wiring for the lights, a new brake disconnect switch, a new charge line, and a 12V socket. All in, a little less than $800. I'll probably hit $800 because it looks like I'm going to need a drop receiver to make the tow bar level when this one is hooked up.

Essentially, from the RV back, you'll need a tow bar, electrical hookup from RV to Jeep, safety cables. On the Jeep you'll need a base plate (what the tow bar attaches to), wiring for lights (lots of options, but I'm going with the CoolTech this round; I used a diode setup on the WK2), some kind of supplemental braking system (again, lots of options; I use the Blue Ox Patriot 2), and since my braking system will use the Jeep's battery, I'm adding a supplemental charge line so the battery stays topped up from the RV, and I'm wiring in a 12V socket directly to the battery inside the passenger compartment to plug the Patriot braking system into (the OEM 12V socket is powered only with the ignition, and that won't be on when the vehicle is in tow).

 

Camper_Bob

Thanks so much for your input. I'm in a similar situation. I've gotten estimates for install and it looks like the best so far is $3,700. It has about $500 for labor. I don't mind paying $500 to have it done right, but if I can do it right I will have some time now to do it. What concerns me the most is the brake system. I looked at the Patriot 2 earlier today. by coincidence, and I saw they also have a 3. Do I need to run a wire from the hitch to the baseplate to the engine compartment that then emerges near the driver's seat? I think that would be complicated for me to do. Or does the Patriot 2 install and work without a wire? Does it also enable "breakaway" protection?

 

The Patriot 3 is the updated/upgraded version of the 2. IMHO, if you can still get the 2, there's no real reason to pay for the 3 that I know of.

There will be a disconnect switch screwed to the front of the vehicle somewhere that is attached to the motorhome with a small cable. That switch has a wire that needs to run to the brake module in the passenger compartment. So, yes, you will have to pass a wire from the front bumper into the passenger compartment, but it is not electrically attached to the Jeep's wiring harness anywhere, it's direct from the switch to the brake module. Luckily, there is a plastic plug right next to the brake booster in the engine bay that if removed, offers a clear and unobstructed path into the driver footwell. That's where I plan to run ALL of the cables associated with my install (except for the CoolTech lighting wire that will run through a drain plug under the passenger seat). Eventually I will probably get a grommet to fit there.

The Patriot is actually the easiest thing to deal with. If I were you installing this myself, I would worry more about the lighting wiring. Using the diode setups, you have to pass a 4-wire harness from the front bumper to the rear of the vehicle, then wire in 2 diodes into the vehicle harness just ahead of the plugs to the lights, and you have to pass a jump wire between the two rear lights. AND you have to wire that 4-wire harness to a plug receptacle attached to the front of the vehicle that connects to the RV.

When I set up my Grand Cherokee, this was the second hardest part. The hardest part was actually installing the base plates because I had to take the front facia off the vehicle. It was a tight fit with lots of little plastic clips to deal with (some of which broke in the process), and I had to replace a bunch of plastic rivets. Thankfully things are MUCH easier on the JL on the baseplate install.

Again, check out etrailer; they have TONS of videos on what you'll need, what options you have, their opinion on the "best" option, and detailed instructional videos on how to install each individual component on YOUR specific vehicle.

 

This is my Grand Cherokee in tow. I towed like this from TX to South Dakota, and all around Texas, and it towed REALLY well, and I expect the JL to tow even better. My RV has 7500 lb capacity though. But the JL GVWR is only 4900 lbs, so I'm good to go.

I've also been known to drag my YJ around quite a bit, but the new bumper my wife wanted interferes with the tow shackles, so it's not quite right for towing right now...

 

Camper_Bob

That looks sweet. I hope my Sport S is not 4900 lbs. I was thinking it's more like 4,200.

Can you shed any light on how the Patriot 2 braking system hooks up, or I'll go do some research on installation online?

 

That's just the GVWR. The actual curb weight (bone stock) is more like 4100 lbs.

 

I currently tow a Ram 3500 behind my motorhome. Wanted to buy a Jeep, but need a truck that can tow 3 different trailers and the Jeep could only tow one of them. I use a Blue Ox tow bar, Roadmaster base plate and Air Force One brake. Lights are my own set up running wire from the front of the truck to a light bar I made mounted between the back stake pockets. Air Force One can only be used if your motorhome has air brakes, but it is totally seamless in operation. I installed everything myself without too much trouble. After I decided what equipment I wanted I searched the internet and etrailer was the cheapest.

 

Camper Bob

I am back to this project and looking over the Blue Ox base plate. I think I could handle that. Now I'm concerned about the wiring as you say. I guess from what you wrote that the Jeep is not pre-wired for towing. You say I have to pass the wire back to the tail lights, do the jump wire, the diodes. And you say the best way to see how it's done it to find a video, right? I wrote Blue Ox to ask what wiring/breakaway/diode kits I need to buy. I guess when they answer I can search for the exact videos.

So if I buy a removable brake like the Patriot II or 3 how does it get the signal to apply the breaks? Is it from the motion of the motorhome/car or a sensor in the tow bar that is wired to the Patriot? Is there a better value than the Blue Ox? It's expensive.

Thanks, Steve

 

There are TONS of options for wiring. No, these don't come equipped for tow lighting; you will have to install something, and it's not "plug & play". The trailer tow package is different and allows a trailer towed behind the Jeep to be plugged in to the Jeep and lit up.

I did a write up on my installation of the Cool Tech tow wiring harness for Jeep JL. I will see if I can link that post here later today. Either way, ETrailer.com has instructional videos for installation of various wiring configurations; that would be my first research resource. I will see if I can link one or two of their videos as well...

The Blue Ox brake module is controlled via a dedicated wireless controller that rides in the Motor home cab and is powered by a standard 12V socket. Mine lost signal once or twice, but I moved it over by the A-Pillar in my rig and it's been fine since. The emergency break-away switch is the only other wire (other than power) attached to the Blue Ox brake module.

 

Camper Bob
I saw a couple of places where it says the Patriot uses an internal accelerometer to know when to apply the brakes and how hard. I think the RF controller is used to adjust that or manually apply the brakes. Does that sound right? I was trying to understand if some other wiring needs to connect the Patriot box to the tow bar, but I don't think so. I think it only needs the breakaway switch wire.
I'll check out the eTrailer videos and I'll look at your writeup if you post it. I think being not in a hurry I can get this done by myself. If not, I'll hire a mechanic to rescue me. I ordered my base plate today, the Blue Ox BX1139, and it should arrive Wednesday. Maybe my biggest problem will be the park owner here. They say only minor repairs are allowed. I hope they will let me do this (maybe I'll offer them few extra dollars if they complain).

Edit: One other question: Is the 5000 pound tow bar enough or should I get the 6500 pound? The Wrangler should be under 5000 pounds which is the limit of my tow hitch on the motorhome. But people seem to buy bigger hitches. Is that overkill or a good idea?
Edit 2: Do I need to buy the wiring kit, diode kit, tow bar cable from Blue Ox or will any generic cable from O Reilly, Amazon, Walmart work just as well for less money?
Thanks, Steve

 

Yes, that sounds about right on the Blue Ox Patriot. The control module in the cab with you can be used to adjust the relative "strength" as well as apply the brakes manually. It will also alert you to a breakaway event, and a few other things. Like I said before, the only wires that go to the Brake controller come from the break away switch (plugs in just like a headphone jack) and the power (plugs into a 12V socket).

Here's my writeup on the Cool Tech wiring harness: My Writeup. I'm about to add another post to that thread because I wired in my constant-on 12V socket over the weekend. The only 12V socket available in the passenger compartment of the JL is on with ignition. I chose to wire in my own constant-on 12V outlet direct to the battery so I could have it available for other items as well (like perhaps an air pump or inverter). Cool Tech also sells a small jumper that can be installed to make that outlet constant-on, or if you're handy, you can do that yourself.

I would say your ability to install the baseplate in a park would depend on your ability and what tools you have available as well as the flexibility of the owner/manager. You're not dealing with fluids, which would be a big problem for a park owner (they don't want spills), and if you're handy, it's not going to take more than a few hours. I would approach the owner/manager about it, and I would try to get it done as rapidly and quietly as possible. I would also "hide" anything you remove from the vehicle (like the bumper and skid plate) so there's not parts laying all around. You don't want it to ever look like you're doing anything more complicated than replacing a light bulb. If you don't have the right tools in good repair available, it will take longer as you adapt and use what you have; having the right tool for the job makes installation that much faster.

I would go with the 6500 lb bar, but that's my opinion. I generally don't like to get anywhere near a mechanical part's rated capacity if I can help it.

You don't need to use Blue Ox parts exclusively just because you chose a Blue Ox baseplate and tow bar. Only for the tow bar and the base plate because their attachment points are brand-specific (but there are adapters available). When I went to set up my WK2, I picked up a "kit" from Hitch Source.com (Something like this). I filled in a few gaps where I needed to with other brands like Roadmaster. I don't remember how much of their "kit" I used and what all I picked up outside of it. I priced the items I would have purchased separately, and the kit was worth it to me at the time.

For the wiring, I would go "brand name", and specific purpose, but again, that's my opinion. I would rather not have to hack anything together more than I'm already hacking. Again, having the right parts/tools makes a difference.

 

Bob
I looked at your writeup, but I haven't studied it yet. I also watched an eTrailer video on wiring a Jeep Wrangler JL. A couple of parts bothered me.
1 - Cutting into the taillight wires. I read someone say there is a kit (Blue Ox maybe) that does not require cutting the wires and instead inserts some extra lights in the taillight. Do you know about that? I like that idea.
2 - Replacing the 4-wire connector with a 6-wire connector. Don't one of these kits come with the correct connector already attached?
Finally, so you say in the Wrangler the 12V lighter plug is ignition on. So is there any way to use the brake without adding the extra 12V wire as you described in your writeup?
Thanks Steve

 

I don't really like the idea of cutting into the tail light wires either, but I wanted an "unobtrusive" install that is as passive as possible. I don't know if the tail light housings on the JL will accommodate a bulb-system install. You could always go with magnetic lights and keep the lights completely out of the Jeep. There are even wireless options available, but $$$. Really, cutting into the lighting wiring is not a big deal IMO. A few heat-shrink butt connectors and you can put it back the way it was if you ever need to. Also, the bulb installations require you to drill a hole in the tail-light housing that holds the bulb socket. I'd rather cut a wire that I can splice back together than drill a 3/4" hole in the tail-light housing, but that's my preference.

Most kits don't come with the 6-pin plug already wired to the 4-wire harness because routing the wiring harness through the Jeep's chassis would be virtually impossible. Certainly MUCH more cumbersome than it needs to be. Again, wiring the 6-pin plug to the 4-wire harness isn't that big a deal IMO. The plugs are typically a standard configuration, and it's easy to test which pin does what if you have a volt meter (which you should have anyway).

Honestly, I don't remember if the Blue Ox can run without a power source. IIRC, one of the differences between the various iterations of the Blue Ox Patriot braking system is the size of the capacitor. The unit has a capacitor in it, but I don't know how many braking cycles it would last without a charge (I've had REALLY good luck getting answers to questions like that from Blue Ox, so you might give them a call and ask). The braking module failing because it ran out of power is not something I'm willing to chance, so if I were you, and you're going to use the Blue Ox Patriot, I would find a way to keep it powered. I toyed with the idea of running an extension from the 12V outlet in the cargo area (which is constant-on), but at the end of the day, I didn't want to do that because it would be inconvenient when it came time to hook up and go. There are also at least a couple different ways to re-configure your OEM 12V outlet to be powered without the ignition. If you have the accessory switches, it's even easier to do. I wanted another outlet anyway (you can never have too many 12V outlets IMO), I don't have the accessory switches, and installation of another outlet is probably the easiest thing I'll do on this project.

My goal in choosing the gear and installation methods I choose/chose is to keep the hook/unhook process as simple as possible while balancing my desire for a "clean" install and maintaining flexibility. There are TONS of options on these things because everyone's needs are different. I want as "passive" a hookup process as I can get so it can be done quickly. I also tow my Jeep for days at a time when taking longer trips (it's an EVERY time thing, not just every now and then), so I need my gear to be SUPER dependable. And the JL is my daily driver, so I need my system not to interfere with that duty. I also want to be able to use my tow gear on my YJ; that's why I chose a brake I could easily move from one vehicle to another and a tow bar that will be compatible with the tow points on my YJ.

 

Bob
Thanks, I'm not sure about the wiring and brake system yet, but I think I will go with an even heavier tow bar, the 7500 pound Ascent. I was reading a page that said this and it made me think it's worth the extra money:

The tow bar is 2 inches longer than the classic Blue Ox tow bars which improves your turning radius, reducing the risk of binding. It also has low profile non-binding latches which enable you to unbind a bound tow bar by hand! No more special tools, brute force or maneuvering of the dinghy vehicle.

 

Those are good reasons to go with that bar or one like it. My bar is "non-binding" as well. I've had it bind up, and a little more than gentle rap with the heel of my hand on the release lever and it pops free. It's a nice feature for sure. The best part is that the toad doesn't have to be in perfect alignment with the camper when you're hitching up.

Also, the length is important. When I towed my YJ with a fixed bar from Harbor Freight, I actually made contact between the front bumper of the Jeep and the rear bumper of the Motorhome. My YJ had those plastic bumper extenders on it at the time and one broke. No big loss, I didn't like those anyway, but the lesson was learned about the length of the tow bar and where the Jeep sits in relation to the camper from a turning radius perspective.

Never had a problem with the WK2 and my Alpha tow bar. And I don't anticipate any problems with the JL, but if it becomes an issue, it's easy to get an extender for the receiver.

 

Bob
I'm reading the installation instructions again. A couple of items concern me. There's a place where it says I need to cut a "slot" in the middle hole of the frame. There's also 2 holes to drill, but I think I can handle those with my power drill. Did you cut the slot? The photo has lines on it. Are those lines already there or do you have to make those lines? Do I need to buy a power saw to do that or can a hack saw get it done? This may be when the park manager gets involved. I hope not. And it says to bend back the frame. Did you bend it up then flat, or just straight back and under?
Also, is there a tool or method for removing the push pins? My base plate is supposed to arrive today and then the "fun" begins.
Thanks, Steve

 

Bob
One more question. It says to disconnect an electric wire harness when removing the bumper. Can I drive (to the auto parts store) with that disconnected, or can I reconnect it to drive?
Thanks, Steve

 

Bob
One other question: If I do the bulb & socket wiring that does not splice into the existing wires, does that mean I don't need the diode kit because I'm not using the electrical system of the Jeep?
Thanks, Steve

 

I towed a JK for a few years now towing a JL, used the same setup other than tail light wiring, never had a problem. Takes less than 3 minutes to be ready to tow, three minutes to unhook and store tow items.

I use (and there are tons of options):
Blue Ox base plate and tow bar
CoolTech wiring harness (only one available when I did my JL, now more options)
Demco Stay and Play Duo brake system (more difficult install but after that your done for good, flip a switch and tow)

Can email photos by request.

I did the entire install on both jeeps myself, not hard just time consuming. I do like knowing where and how each connection was made. Should I ever have a problem I know exactly where to look.

Good luck with your project!

Steve

Btw: my JLU Sahara is heavily optioned, it weighed in at 4,620 with the hard top panels in place, 3/4 tank of fuel, and golf clubs in the back.

 

Steve
That's a nice looking motorhome. Looks a little like mine, but maybe longer. I have a 31 foot Winnebago Intent. It's plenty of room for us.

 

Thx, that was from a stop this past weekend. We have a 38’ Newmar, love it.

Best of luck deciding on tow options.


Steve

 

I have not done the base plate install yet.

Yes, there is a small piece of the bumper bracket that needs to be cut (allegedly) to make room so you can get a nut inside the frame rail for one of the bolts on each side. The lines are not there, technicians will usually draw lines for cuts so they know where to cut. I intend to test whether I can get that nut back there without cutting. If I have to cut, I have a dremel tool with some good cutoff wheels and will use that to open that slot JUST enough to slide the nut in. If I have to cut, I intend to make 2 cuts and just bend the "tab" back inside the frame. You're talking about 4 x 1" cuts at most here; with a cutoff wheel and a rotary tool, you're talking 2 minutes tops. Much longer with a hack saw.

Power drill is fine for the holes so long as you have a good, sharp bit. Use a little oil as you start to drill and it should go much easier. Start with a smaller hole and step up to the larger hole. Make sure you've got everything aligned just right (measure thrice, cut once) before you go to poke the hole.

Yes, there are tools called "trim removal tools" to remove the push pins. But if you're careful, a smallish flat screw driver works fine. You pry up the center section of the pin and pull the two parts free together. The center pin "locks" the assembly in place. If you watch the install videos from Etrailer, sometimes they use a tool, sometimes they use a screwdriver; I don't have a tool (yet), so I've always just used a screwdriver. Needle nose pliers if they get ornery.

The electric wire harness to the front bumper is for the fog lamps, so yes, you can drive with it unplugged.

Honestly, I haven't looked into the bulb/socket setups. I do know that some come with diodes, but I don't know what for.

I won't get to do my base plate until this weekend at the earliest (I have to build a fence Friday and Saturday too), so good luck with your install and let us know how it goes!

 

Baseplate is pretty simple and straight forward, you will have no issues. The plastic tub under the bumper comes off and you will need to trim two fairly long slots in that. To me the most frustrating part was getting that tub back on, the push pins are pretty high up in a small area. Plus at my old age I don't like rolling around on a concrete floor

I also used some blue thread lock on my baseplate mounting bolts.

Keep us posted!

Steve

 

I forgot to mention, something I found helpful when I did the install on my WK2 was to put the front tires on a set of ramps. I'm not a small guy, so getting some extra "elbow" room under the vehicle is always nice.

 

Camper Bob

Thanks for the reply. Maybe I can give you some insight from my work on this. I started today. I'm in the middle. The Jeep bumper is sitting on my motor home floor. I didn't want to leave it outside. I bought the rotary cutoff wheel, but I haven't done that yet. There is an opening underneath. I'm going to try to thread the nut through that opening, but if not I will cut the opening they show. Why don't they cut the upper hole which is more in line with the bolt?

Do you cut off the of the end of the wire on the bolts? I was planning just to bend it out of the way. I also bought a titanium drill bit to drill out the hole, but I haven't done that yet. It was 6 PM and people were getting home. I didn't want to rattle the park manager. I will run my drill tomorrow midday.

The bad news was for $500 they didn't give me 2 of the lock washers in the parts list. (I'm installing the Blue Ox BX1139) Tomorrow I go to the store to get those and an adapter I need for the torque wrench and a larger socket for the 1/2 inch bolts on the baseplate.

I was in a panic because they say to unplug the electric connector on the bumper. So I pulled and pulled. Nothing. I went to watch a YouTube video that said you press the tab and pull. I tried that and nothing. Then the bumper slipped a little and the connector unplugged. I hope I didn't damage the wires.

Do I have to buy the 4 pin and 6 pin connectors? I don't see them in the box.
Can I reuse the push pins? They seem to be in pretty good shape.

For Stevi: I bought a large section of shag carpet to put on my hood under my car cover if hail is in the forecast. I can't say if that works well or not because it hasn't hailed yet. But the carpet came in handy because I put it on the RV park gravel ground and was pretty comfortable getting under the Jeep. I appreciated it's high ground clearance. It made the work easier.

Steve

 

I prefer to bend the nut wire out of the way just in case some day I need to remove that nut/bolt.

The 6-pin plug might come included with whatever lighting wiring kit you got, or it might be a separate purchase. You should be able to find one at an auto-parts store I would think. If you're not using anything other than the lights, you can run the 4-wire harness all the way up to the motorhome though (as opposed to wiring the 4-wire harness into a 6-way receptacle, and then running a 7-way to 6-way "coily" cable from there to the motorhome). That's how I have my YJ wired; I have a long loop of 4-wire secured under my hood. When it's time to hook up, I just run that 4-wire flat plug up to the receptacle on my motorhome (which is equipped with BOTH a 7-way and 4-way plug). In my JL setup, the only reason I technically use the 6-pin plug is to run my constant 12V charge line to the Jeep from the MH. If I didn't need to charge the battery, I could just wire the 4 wires from the harness into a flat plug and run that to the MH.

Yes, you should re-use the pins as much as you can. They are designed that way, but they usually only tolerate so many iterations of removal/install.

 

Camper_Bob

I just finished 8 hours of very hard work and the baseplate is installed and the bumper is back on. I still have to do the wiring and I still need to re-install the belly pan which doesn't look hard. The bolt with the spacer that requires you to thread the wire bolt back to it is virtually impossible to do. There are too many things going on and then you have to line up the bolt at the very end of the wire where you can barely see it. But somehow with my wife guiding the nut to the bolt it worked. It sounds rather sexual. LOL I still don't believe it, but it worked.

Steve

 

IMO use the 6 pin connector, even if you only use 4 wires you have the option to later add a item(s). Using the Stay and Play Duo brake system I didn't need a charge lead. That brake system uses no power until brakes are applied. Since most of my driving is interstate I've never had a battery problem.

I did use one of the extra pins to run a brake light into my coach at the dash, small LED indicates the toad brakes are working correctly.

Steve

 

We are newbies to both Jeeps and Motorhomes. We have a 2020 Holiday Rambler and a 2020 JL. We use Blue Ox tow bar and base plate with the cool tech wiring system. We’ve only travelled in Texas so far and are starting to research braking systems. Thanks for the informative post. Here’s our current setup.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Buckee’s!