I have the same question for my 13 JKUR.....Did you find out anything?

 

Yes you can. I installed engo driving lights and spliced them in with the fog lights, works perfect. I did not eliminate the factory fogs, just added the engos.

 

I just tried this and it is not working for me. Need some help with my D2 Install. I bought a set of these and wired them directly to my fog light circuit using the Rigid pigtail (40197). When I turn the lights on without the engine running, they work great. With the engine running I turn them on and they flash full brightness for just a second and then drop down to very low brightness. I'm guessing my Jeep's PWM is kicking the voltage way down for some reason...thoughts?

Vehicle is a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. The factory fogs draw 24w and the D2s draw 34w. That should have them pulling 2.5a compared to the factory 2.0a...well within the safety margin of the factory wiring. So what's your take?

 

Thoughts anyone? I'd love to solve this without tearing it apart and rewiring with a relay

 

I wish I could help with the wiring. Another option might be the kit with plug and play connectors which are designed to work with the JK with no issues.

We have a few options but our most popular is the CUBE kit

 

Appreciate the reply, those do look nice! Tell me more about the plug and play harness?
- Is there somewhere I can get a good look at it? Went to the wiring section of the site but didn't find a nice expanded view that shows exactly what the harness is
- Does it include enough additional length so that the cube fogs can be mounted in my aftermarket bumper where the stock lights are meant to go? To clarify, a lot of the aftermarket bumpers have provisions for the stock fog lights but move them outboard enough that they require the stock harness to be cut and extended.
- How does it solve the problem I'm having? Assuming it's a harness with a relay?

 

If you check our wiring section of the site, you could get good pics of the PSX connector there. When you buy the lights they do not come with a harness, everything is built into the actual light, so all you have do it is unplug the factory light, and plug these in the same connectors. We built the lights from the start to accept and work with JK's so they have the proper electronics built into them.

The lights come with enough wire to fit into most aftermarket bumpers, even the ones which outboard the lights from the factory spot. The lights come with around 16-18" of cable on them usually. If more was needed for a specific reason we could always add a tad bit as well.

 

Any update? Did you manage to get them working properly?
I just bought a set of Dually's last week and going to pickup the fog light brackets today. My intention was to just use the factory wires, thought about getting a harness to make up a plug and play setup rather than cutting up my wires and voiding any part of my JK's warranty.

 

Any update? Did you manage to get them working properly? I just bought a set of Dually's last week and going to pickup the fog light brackets today. My intention was to just use the factory wires, thought about getting a harness to make up a plug and play setup rather than cutting up my wires and voiding any part of my JK's warranty.

I ended up wiring them on their own harness with a relay. Used the positive wire from the fog light to trigger the relay.

 

Your problem is the power control module.TIPCM. send a pulsed signal to your fog lights which will cause a LED to flicker and go dim you can solve by installing a relay controlled by the existing fog light wire but drawing power directly from the battery or install a anti flicker harness.

 

I get all that, it wasn't flickering though (best I could tell).

 

UPDATE: My relay is now shot. Apparently the PWM pulse has been chattering away at my relay. What this means: simply wiring the lights on their own circuit using the fog light circuit to trigger the relay is not enough. Looking at putting a cap and diode in the trigger line now.

 

Yeah, that's how you stop the relay buzzing. cap across the relay, diode to stop it from reversing back to your tapped source.

 

Thanks for confirming for me. Is this essentially all the "anti flicker" harnesses are?

 

most are caps only. no diode to stop feedback but it's not always necessary, as in the preassembled ones, because of the location they are connected.

 

Gotcha, my concern would be messing up some light control module by having the cap back feed into the system.

 

Do you think the anti flicker harness from Truck-Lite or JW Speaker would fix this problem if I cut the connectors off and just solder/crimp the the fog light harness to run through it to the rigid lights?
By the description of what the anti flicker harness does is fix this exact problem.
I'm ready to give it a try but I just don't want to blow $50 on one and it doesn't work.
I don't have that much electrical experience so I'm just guessing, I haven't had the time to install mine yet but I really don't want to buy an spod for 1 set of lights or drill holes in the dash if I decide to eventually buy an spod to add more lights.

 

Do you think the anti flicker harness from Truck-Lite or JW Speaker would fix this problem if I cut the connectors off and just solder/crimp the the fog light harness to run through it to the rigid lights? By the description of what the anti flicker harness does is fix this exact problem. I'm ready to give it a try but I just don't want to blow $50 on one and it doesn't work. I don't have that much electrical experience so I'm just guessing, I haven't had the time to install mine yet but I really don't want to buy an spod for 1 set of lights or drill holes in the dash if I decide to eventually buy an spod to add more lights.

My guess is that it would but don't know for sure. Would love to hear how it goes if you give it a try!

 

I'm having the same problem, when the Jeep is off, I'm getting 12 volts at my trigger wire, when my Jeep is on I get 8.5 volts. That's making my relay chatter. Can someone please tell me what size cap I need? Also, if I get the relay with a built in diode, is that enough? Thanks guys!!

 

....Also, if I get the relay with a built in diode, is that enough? Thanks guys!!

Pretty sure I can answer this part and it's "no". If I'm not mistaken the built in diode is to prevent a backward surge from the relay coil when it disconnects. Important for our use but won't keep the cap from back feeding up the trigger line.

 

So I went down to the 4wheelparts store here in town to order the anti flicker harness, asked them if they'd seen this problem. They said they've done 2 wranglers and 1 flickered the other was fine. Identical setups. They said they fixed it by using a resistor for HID lights. I asked them if they thought the anti flicker harness and they said probably not.
So $15 each for a HID resistor I'm going to order a pair and try it.
Only have today off this weekend so hopefully they get here by next weekend so I can try it out.

 

So I went down to the 4wheelparts store here in town to order the anti flicker harness, asked them if they'd seen this problem. They said they've done 2 wranglers and 1 flickered the other was fine. Identical setups. They said they fixed it by using a resistor for HID lights. I asked them if they thought the anti flicker harness and they said probably not. So $15 each for a HID resistor I'm going to order a pair and try it. Only have today off this weekend so hopefully they get here by next weekend so I can try it out.

Interested to know more about those and if they work!

 

a load resistor? might work, might not. i'm thinking you might need the capacitors.

 

Lost the stock fog lights when I went with the new bumper, so I replaced them with these Vision X lights. Small, powerful, and only 10w each. I've got them wired to the factory fog light wiring, controlling them from the stalk, just like the factory fog lights. Absolutely no problem. Am running the "Euro" pattern lens, but an amber fog lens is also available.

Come to think of it, I did have to get some kind of adapter that makes these lights 'plug and play" with the Jeep system. Cost and bother were inconsequential.

CW

 

http://s87.photobucket.com/user/GuyMiner/media/wheels/VisionXlights_zpsf608f436.jpg.html Lost the stock fog lights when I went with the new bumper, so I replaced them with these Vision X lights. Small, powerful, and only 10w each. I've got them wired to the factory fog light wiring, controlling them from the stalk, just like the factory fog lights. Absolutely no problem. Am running the "Euro" pattern lens, but an amber fog lens is also available. Come to think of it, I did have to get some kind of adapter that makes these lights 'plug and play" with the Jeep system. Cost and bother were inconsequential. CW

what year jeep?

 

So I got them installed today, tried myself last night and ran into a road block when I couldn't get the old fog light out. Turns out you need to remove the grille. Didn't have internet or cell service at the shop so I didn't find out until I got home after spending 2 hours cussing because I thought it would be a lot simpler.

So I brought it to the parts store I bought the lights at and got them to do the install. Much better idea, didn't void the warranty on the lights and the parts and labor on the install are also covered. They put the resistors in as well just in case it does flicker. So far so good, I'll try them out tonight and get some pics.

Here's the resistors I bought 2X H7 LED DRL FOG Light Canbus 50W 6ohm Load Resistor Wiring Canceller Decoder | eBay

 

Seem to be working fine, no flickering. Was a bit of what looked like smoke coming from around the lights when I turned them on about an hour ago. Wasn't really any burning smell though, maybe it was just condensation that froze and the heat was melting the ice. I don't know.
Drove around with them on for the last hour on some back roads trying to get some decent pics of the northern lights and they didn't give me any problems.