I use Lucas Red Tacky and it works great it does not fling too much. I grease mine every 3000 miles or so, after a while you learn not to over grease them. If you play in the mud then I would grease more often but for normal stuff 3000 miles or so has worked for me.

 

Every 3k miles you have to take the drive shaft off and pack the joints with grease? That would be like every 2 months for me. Is this just a JE REEL thing or all after market shafts?

 

I have a Dana Spicer and it has grease zerks ont the 3 Ujoints and the center ball is sealed. No need to remove it on mine. the zerks are easy to get at.

 

I grease mine every 3k but dont drive it every day either. Thats maybe twice a year for me.
I have to remove mine to get to the ball which is not sealed like Jeff's.

 

You guys sure are religious with your greasing lol

I do mine when I do my rcv's, every 6 months... Maybe:beerme:

 

So how to I know when enough is enough. Should I see it oozing out of somewhere ? I put in about 15 squeezes from the grease gun.

 

That sounds like tons lol. A u joint you will see it squeeze out lightly from the four caps towards the center of the joint. The slip joint I would think four or five pumps is good.

 

I stand corrected. Found the zerk for the u joint as well. Glad you said that.

 

If it's fully greaseable there should five. Lower u joint, slip joint, the two u joints in the cv near the transfer case, and then the center ball in the cv which is sometimes hard to get to.

 

:funnypost:....I am speechless

Cameron

 

:happyyes:

what did I just read

Your welcome to join!! :lmao:

Lol I've been using that joke for two days with my wife ! Thanks for the offer for the adapter but I'm going to pick one up today. Headed to Death Valley this weekend.

I was laughing as I was typin this and my wife was sitting next to me giving me the Wtf is so funny look... So I showed her.

Her response was "I knew it" bahahahahaha

 

what did I just read

 

Well the magic number ended up being 3 (per JE REEL). Two up front and a flush mount for the ball in the rear. The two rear u joints are solid.

 

When the front one wears out you could always change it to a solid if you wanted, too.

 

I grease my Jeep when I do an oil change. I like to use a waterproof grease because the Jeep crosses creeks and gets pressure washed.

 

Going to re-open this thread because I posted incorrect information. For those with a JE Reel 1310 there are 5 grease points. Not 3 like I posted. Two zerk fittings up front, 3 flat fittings in the rear. I'll post some pics.

 

Arrows point to the flat fittings (except the center pic, my arrow was low, the little hash mark is next to it). Zerk fittings up front. Sorry about all the grease, hadn't wiped it down. That pile of grease is covering one of the zerk fitting up front.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Nice pictures to illustrate where the fittings are located. Still laughed at some of the posts in this thread.

 

so can you use the needle tool to grease those flat ones? I have the stock sport wrangler I haven't even looked at greasing the shaft yet

 

Are you running the stock drive shaft? If so you do not need to grease it. The aftermarket DS require some type of basic maintenance where as the stock DS do not.

 

yes I have the stock drive shaft, thanks for the information

 

Digging up this old thread to ask if anybody has been able to grease the center ball of the CV, with a needle joint on the end of a flex hose to be able to sort of snake it into place without disconnecting the shaft from the TC? I ask because Adams directs to use red loctite on those TC bolts, and while I have disconnected and reconnected them multiple times before when initially installing, it seemed I may have actually been bending the bolt heads a little bit with as much torque as you need to break the red stuff, on those pretty small little bolts. Seems like doing that over and over every time to grease the shaft isn't ideal, at least without replacing those bolts. Would be nice to be able to grease without disconnecting.

Issue of course is you want the joint to be bent opposite of how it is with the zerk on the bottom side, to have space between the outer joint pieces to reach the zerk on the interior. So I'm wondering if I can access the zerk when it is closer to the top side by just blindly reaching in there with the needle and flex hose. I've never used a grease gun before so don't know how hard this may be. I'm going to go try it later.

 

Try jacking up the jeep with the frame so it will change the DS angle and open up the area where the ball zerk is. Lifting a tire off the ground will allow you to spin the shaft to the best spot.

 

Was able to get to it with the needle as I had hoped, and yes jacking up one tire to allow me to spin it to the right position was very useful. Thanks for the tip.

 

I have an Adams front and I grease mine while it’s still on the Jeep, I just pull it forward or backward until the zerk is in a good spot to be able to fit the needle through, it can be a little aggravating getting it in just the right spot and getting to it after but for me it’s a lot easier than taking out the driveshaft, for what it’s worth I use a mini pistol grip grease gun so I only need one hand for that and one to guide and hold the needle

 

Just ordered a sealed Adams, but it seems there's at least two fittings I still need to grease.

What grease gun do you use, and what tips?

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

 

I have the same sealed Adams and just greased mine with a Lincoln gun with flex hose and needle attachment. Like Richard said, you can hold the needle with one hand and squeeze the trigger with the other.

The needle is only really needed to reach the CV center ball zerk, but can also be used on the slip joint zerk so that you don't have to screw around with changing tips. I was able to get at the center ball with the zerk at about the 10:30 position looking towards the front of the Jeep.

Here are the products I used:

Gun

Needle Tip

Grease that Adams Recommends

I had also read the recommendation to use teflon tape on the gun's threaded connections so did that too.

And here's a video from Adams on how to do it, was useful for me having never done it before to know how much to put in.

 

Another grease novice question, how do you guys store your grease guns?

Top google result suggests you should "depressurize" the gun for storage, would that mean pulling the plunger rod all the way out and locking it back? I saw some other top google forum results arguing that such a thing really wasn't necessary, and in some cases that could even be a bad idea by leaving the plunger rod open to getting dirty.

What about orientation, does that matter? I know you're supposed to store the unopened tubes of grease with the plastic cap up to keep air bubbles from forming on the metal cap end. But does it matter once the tube is in the gun and the thing is primed?

I haven't done anything to mine after using it other than locking the trigger in the squeeze position with the little ring it came with, just like it was shipped. Put it in a trash bag to collect any crap that might slowly ooze out over time. And I have it vertical in the same orientation as the unopened tube, i.e. with the tube outlet/gun head down.

Hopefully I'm overthinking this and I can leave it as is, and it should be expected to work fine in 6 months or whenever I next have to use it.