First what is the hotter side? Second changing thermostat size will not make you run cooler it will just take a bit longer to get hot.

Right now I think the go to radiator is the AFE Bladerunner GT. The bar and plate design seems to be stronger than the old tube design as well as having much more surface area for cooling. It is what I will swap to if my current aluminum radiator gives up the ghost. My current one though is performing fine.

The other issue is the type of coolant being used. My first radiator started leaking in multiple places within 9 months of installing. When I installed the replacement I switched to green antifreeze and it has been good for almost 3 years now. Read the following:

What Coolant Color Should I Use In A Champion Radiator?

shop.championcooling.com

I may change my fluid to Mishimoto liquid chill on this next flush which is any day now.

 

My understanding is a lower temp thermostat will cause other problems. The engine is designed to run a little hot by most peoples standards. Mine runs 210-220 all the time and that is considered normal. I am considering upgrading the radiator as some point in time. I pull a teardrop camper and have to be careful pulling up long hills. It will go up to 240 if I do not slow down.
Also looking at your profile picture it makes me wonder how good of air flow you are getting in there with your auxiliary lights.

 

If the system has been worked or ran low on coolant, make sure there is no air trapped in the system. If that is good and your avatar is your jeep I would start with removing the grill obstructions to improve air flow. If you have any kind of grill mesh start there. I'm sure you would like to keep the lights and bull bar. However, poor airflow could be your issue and that might be your solution. I run the aev bumper without the hoop.

 

That is indeed my Jeep in my avatar. The front KC lights do block some of the airflow which does concern me, although I do like having them there. The grille mesh behind that isn't helping anything either I would bet. I'm more looking into future radiator upgrades for down the road and if/win the stock radiator goes out.

 

I have had heat issues while towing. I added a better radiator (aFe) and a vent for the hood, as well as vented front fender liners.
I disagree with the statement that vented hoods do nothing. The vent on our hood clearly helps airflow out of the engine bay, which would help airflow through the radiator when driving down the road. So far it does seem to be doing better. Time will tell.
Also, a fan only really helps at lower speeds, below 30 mph or so. Above 40 mph most fans aren't helping unless something is wrong.
And a lower thermostat doesn't really help, it might slow down the overheating but it won't stop it.

 

RIPP modifications makes a 180° thermostat for the wranglers now. And you could get someone to use an HP tuner to flash the fan(I believe they kick on 205 low speed and 215 high speed) to retune at 185/195. I also like TOTL Innovations hood. Mishimoto offers lifetime warranties on their products(including radiators and such). They also have trans coolers and oil coolers.

 

An AEV hood will help things run cooler.

 

I actually already have an AEV Vented hood. Makes a pretty decent difference.

 

The problem besides the high temp thermostat is the fan doesn't kick on until to high of a temp.

If someone can figure out a hack to get the fan to turn on sooner I would be first in line to buy it

 

Hp tuner

 

Been planning something similar if I ran into temp issues ever. Pretty much the same plan of upgraded radiator and a high pressure fan. No plan of changing thermostat. Lights and mesh on the front should be fine. Mesh is fairly open and the lights are pretty far away generally.

Hood vents have very little effect. Even if it were 10-15 degrees (it isn't that high) cooler in the engine bay that doesn't translate into 10-15 degree engine temps. Radiator handles the engine temp. You put an upgraded fan on your radiator to clear out the heat and you will have better results than any hood vents.


Question is when are you experience the concerning temps. Highways speeds or off-road speeds?

 

Been planning something similar if I ran into temp issues ever. Pretty much the same plan of upgraded radiator and a high pressure fan. No plan of changing thermostat. Lights and mesh on the front should be fine. Mesh is fairly open and the lights are pretty far away generally.
Question is when are you experience the concerning temps. Highways speeds or off-road speeds?

The most notable higher temps are on highway/freeway, around 60-70 mph or 2200-2800 engine RPM's. The coolant temp typically fluctuates around 220-225 during those times, and if I have the AC on it adds 5+ degrees. If there's a long high or stop and go traffic it'll sit around 225-230. The fan comes on and works great keeping things cool to keep things below 230, but I really never see it drop below 215 unless I park and let the fan run for a few min. Off road the temps get higher at 10 mph or less but the fan keeps things in check. I know these 3.6's create a lot of heat, and my Jeep has loose of airflow from the front lights/mesh so I'm not looking for a fix all miracle, I'm just looking to make things better than it is. Higher engine heat isn't really good for anything IMHO.

I agree with other members, having more control over then fan would be awesome. If you could have the fan come on sooner than factory it could help stop the coolant temps from creeping up.

 

I am running this in my 17 JK 2 door:

Mishimoto MMTS-WRA-12 180° Racing Thermostat for 12-18 Jeep Wrangler JK with 3.6L | Quadratec

Going down the road coolant temp runs about 185/188, oil temp 185/195ish. When waiting at a drive through ext. will still climb to normal 205/210 temps, instead of 215/220! But I will always turn on the A/C to run the fan, even with the top off. I actually think it runs stronger and I have gone from a ~17 MPG to high 18’s. I am running 34.5” tires with the stock 3.21 gears still. No CEL, oil pump kicks off to low pressure after warmed up. Monitor with a Scan Gauge 2. (In my research someone was saying the oil pump would not switch from high to low with a cooler t stat).
My jeep is just a summer toy, so it doesn’t see the cold Michigan winter. But I have had it out in 35 deg. Cool mornings and still no problems.
I have always run lower temp t-stats. I buy new, keep my cars 15 to 20 years, 250K to 320K or until Michigan cancer rots them away. ☹ I did not change the t-stat on my 2005 WRX. But it came from the factory with a 167 deg. So, no need. I run a 170 in my 2020 F-150, stock is 205, and it seems to like it as well. But I only have about 2K since switching that. Time will tell.
Theory as I understand they run the motors hot for emissions. Also, the heat thins the oil so there is less drag in the motor. But from my experience I have seen better MPG. Most likely because the ECM can advance timing because the cooler temp help prevent detonation.

 

I would not consider your temps hot. Thermostat is not fully open until 205 degrees. Limp mode is 250 degrees. Your right in the middle of the temp range.

 

Agree. Temps look normal to me. I'd leave it as is. What is the end goal for temps. Down 5? Down 10? Ambient temperature/roads (hills)/humidity might have more of an effect than any changes made.

 

My goal is to keep temps as low as possible, preferably around or below 220. I know these Jeeps run hot, I'm just trying to pro long the life of the under hood parts and keep performance the best I can. The Jeep tends to pull timing advance and such around 220+ from what I'm seeing on my OBDII read outs.