I would also include Rock Hard 4x4 in your search. They make both steel and aluminum. - I have steel. Aluminum is for weight savings, but is less durable. Aluminum also cost more than steel. They don’t interfere with my ShrockWorks sliders. You can always call them and ask them what the benefits of each are. I like to call companies anyway, just to get a feel of what their customer service is like. If there CS is crappy I generally won’t do business with them anyhow.

What I have found helpful when choosing components is to look at the PDF or YouTube video of the installation instructions. I’ve been able to weed out a lot of parts that way just because the installation looked kinda hokey.

 

on the gas tank the oem skid actually holds the gas tank in in place so the aftermarket skid just supplements the oem one. For me I have found that the skids that get used the most are gas tank on a 4 door, and lower control arm mount skids along with rear differential skid. On my first two I put on tranny skids and oil pan skids but did not on my last two as those never once had so much as a scratch. Some say they are crucial but for me personally based on my own experience I chose not to get them on my last two. Everyone has different experiences and has to make their own choices.

 

If you really plan to wheel hard, steel all the way. I run the full Rock Hard set. Skids can save your bacon offroad - would you rather crunch up a couple hundred dollar piece of metal, or a couple thousand dollar transfercase, and losing your oil pan mid trail would be a big problem.

When doing skids, also make sure to replace the crossmember. Factory is tinfoil and will taco. Much harder to replace after skids have been bent up.

 

I have Rock Hard steel skids. Since I go over a lot of rocks, aluminum was never a choice for me. What many people think is a gas tank skid, isn't. It's a shelf to hold the gas tank and it's easily damaged. As for the stock crossmember, I still have mine and it's held up just fine, and I've gone over a lot of rocks in the past five years. Some people also get an evap cannister skid, but I think it's a waste. I have never once hit my evap cannister. If you do a lot of wheeling you'll find the gas tank skid will get the most hits. That's been my experience and the experience of many others on this site. After five years, I still think the Rock Hard skids are the best.

 

I replaced the crossmember with a RockHard, maybe overkill, but wasn’t that expensive.

 

I only do moderate wheeling. I use the EVO Protek set, which is pretty inexpensive. It's not the thickest steel, but I've hit these skids pretty hard and they've done their job very well.

 

The Rock Hard stuff looks interesting. They have 3/16" and 1/4" steel, and 1/4" aluminum. Prices are comparable to everyone else, but yes, on the lower side. The Clayton is 3/16", so the Rock Hard is stronger.

However, Clayton is unique in including the long arm mount in the cross member. To the best of my knowledge, the other manufacturers all weld the long arm mount in front of the cross member.

To do that Clayton used radius arms instead of a 4-link. Metalcloak also has a radius arm long-arm suspension. The knock on radius arms is articulation and caster change. Clayton says for low speed crawling caster isn't an issue and on paved road levels of articulation castor change is so small to be insignificant (all passenger cars typically have some castor change and radius arms are used on the front suspension of all 2500 and 3500 pickup trucks.

Metalcloak created a varying length upper radius arm link they call Lock n' Load. The idea is it lets the axle rotate on one side for more articulation but can be locked for the highway. Clayton says their joints, a combination of a Johnny Joint and Girro Joint has sufficient rotation over the range of JK axle movement that isn't an issue. After all, those aren't 4' long bed shocks in the back.

Several manufacturers use a 3-link in the front, including Rock Krawler, Gen-Right, and Clayton. They say the single long upper arm allows more rugged joints and mounts plus more articulation. The parts to convert the Clayton radius arm long arm to their 3-link long arm are a bit over $1000. It uses the same lower mount in the cross member, same springs, same rear suspension.

Net: Clayton integrates their skid plates into their long arms suspension and makes theirs preferred if using their long-arm suspension. Since the long arm is a bolt-in or if preferred bolt-in and weld later and cost maybe as little as $1250 more than a full short arms suspension it seems an attractive option.

Clayton replaces the gas tank skid plate. I guess that means dropping the tank to replace the skid plate.

 

Shhhh... don't tell my Jeep with a Rancho Long Arm, they it doesn't flex

The Rock Hard stuff looks interesting. They have 3/16" and 1/4" steel, and 1/4" aluminum. Prices are comparable to everyone else, but yes, on the lower side. The Clayton is 3/16", so the Rock Hard is stronger.

However, Clayton is unique in including the long arm mount in the cross member. To the best of my knowledge, the other manufacturers all weld the long arm mount in front of the cross member.

To do that Clayton used radius arms instead of a 4-link. Metalcloak also has a radius arm long-arm suspension. The knock on radius arms is articulation and caster change. Clayton says for low speed crawling caster isn't an issue and on paved road levels of articulation castor change is so small to be insignificant (all passenger cars typically have some castor change and radius arms are used on the front suspension of all 2500 and 3500 pickup trucks.

Metalcloak created a varying length upper radius arm link they call Lock n' Load. The idea is it lets the axle rotate on one side for more articulation but can be locked for the highway. Clayton says their joints, a combination of a Johnny Joint and Girro Joint has sufficient rotation over the range of JK axle movement that isn't an issue. After all, those aren't 4' long bed shocks in the back.

Several manufacturers use a 3-link in the front, including Rock Krawler, Gen-Right, and Clayton. They say the single long upper arm allows more rugged joints and mounts plus more articulation. The parts to convert the Clayton radius arm long arm to their 3-link long arm are a bit over $1000. It uses the same lower mount in the cross member, same springs, same rear suspension.

Net: Clayton integrates their skid plates into their long arms suspension and makes theirs preferred if using their long-arm suspension. Since the long arm is a bolt-in or if preferred bolt-in and weld later and cost maybe as little as $1250 more than a full short arms suspension it seems an attractive option.

Clayton replaces the gas tank skid plate. I guess that means dropping the tank to replace the skid plate.

 

How many threads are we going to have where you overanalyze everything?

Pretty confident you still haven't answered the "what are you going to do with your Jeep question", with any semblance of detail.

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How many threads are we going to have where you overanalyze everything?

I’m greatly anticipating the suspension thread any minute now.

 

remember folks you do not have to read any thread you don't want to. If you don't like a particular thread or topic, don't read it. that will be all.

 

Most of those questions are answered.

Budget, as little as possible. But some framework. The least expensive short arm kits with 8 adjustable control arms and 2 adjustable track bars, brackets is about $2400. The least expensive decent shocks about $400. Wheels and tires are maybe $2000-$2500, a bit more with the spare. Skidplates maybe $1200. Other brick or brack $1000 or so (e.g. spare mount, headlights) assuming no flare or bumper changes. That's $7k.

I'm probably $4k-$5k above that (long arm $1400, full exhaust with loop delete and y-pipe $800, driveshafts $1000, shocks $700 instead of $400). Plus maintenance needed on a used car. Still...the bumper issue, winch (I'm sure not necessary for a while), and some basic recovery stuff. Brakes could be $250 (pads and fluids) or $1500 (calipers, pads, fluids, caliper adapter brackets), I think I'd like to stay with the OE 11.9" rotors.

My initial goal was to be out the door for $25k...no more than $30k. Actually, I started thinking of an XJ or WJ with the car for $5k and out the door for under $15k. But JK prices are higher than I expected and it looks like the best I'll do is out the door for $35k and with a newer JK it would be more. I'm still chewing on that. I'm way past the initial $15k.

I've already said...I'm getting ready for the zombie apocalypse. Part of it having a technically interesting car that is far more practical than an expensive sports car that can never be used in a meaningful way.

Rausch Creek is about 2 1/2 hours away. Other trails in south Jersey. But probably just a few times a year. Not like the stock car days when there were 3-4 races nights per month, 25+ car fields, and battles for tenths of a second and a few feet on the track.

Oh...and my wife will be with me most of the time, also driving.

Note that a big budget JL/JK starts with a $20+k V8 conversion. Then $16+k of 1-ton axles. Dual coilover and bypass shocks around the car with pneumatic bump stops...Easyl over $10k. And the professionally installed 3-link long arms are probably pushing $10k by themselves.

 

To summarize I think we have a JK for $30K out-the-door including all mods. Not going to be able to do much, but you will be able to buy a decent used JK and do some wheeling. Then as about 2 million other people have said once you start wheeling you can slowly learn what you need and start adding things. I’ve spent at least $35K on mods, but I did it over a 5 year period.

 

Typically, there seem to be 4 pieces: under engine, under transfer case, gas tank and crossmember. The gas tank can either replace or supplement the factory armor. Is that correct?

On later JKs, don't forget about the exhaust loop. Some skids offer it some protection, while others don't. I used a Skid Row loop skid, but I modified it to tie into my other skids. IMO, the factory transfer case skid is plenty strong, so no need to replace it - spend the money of LCA skids and a rear diff slider.

 

It’s 7 o clock. Time for Jeopardy. I always watch Jeopardy. Must watch Jeopardy.

 

You don't need 70% of that for Rausch Creek.

Get a solid 3.5" lift, tires (35s fit in stock wheels), bumper and winch, recovery gear and have at it.

Axles and long arms simply aren't necessary of all you're doing is RC every month or less.

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I will say that I am very happy with the Metal Cloak skid plate system on my Jeep. I also have the Metal cloak 2.5" game changer lift and the Metal Cloak Fenders. Every bit of it is very good quality. I recently went wheeling with a group that had jeeps built way beyond mine but I was able to go everywhere they went. I have built my rig over 3 years. I did not realize how much the whole system works together until I added the fenders this fall. It really increased the articulation and improved the ride immensely off road.

 

The stock skids do work for most people. The only upgrades we have currently in that respect are; we upgraded the stock crossover as the stocker is made out of recycled beer cans, and we have axle side lower control arm skids on the front axle. The other skids we have are stock, and they do take a beating. But so far they still do the job. The upgraded crossover helps strengthen the stock skids as that is what they bolt to.
You don't need to replace your arms, unless you want to. Most only replace the lower front arms, or use geometry brackets. The brackets will deliver a better ride. We have the MetalCloak brackets, front and rear. A long arm kit on a JK / JKU seems like a lot of work / money for little gain. The brackets are a better option.
I think you would find that a near stock JK / JKU with a decent 2.5" lift and 35" tires would do anything you would want it to do. But I do get the premise of trick parts being fun. That is part of the reason we ended up with coilovers. Do they really do what we do better than a good set of shocks and springs would? No. But they look trick and they give me more things to fiddle with. We could have stick with a 2.5" lift and been able to do everything we do. But I like modding.

 

Why do the drop brackets give a better ride than the control arms correcting the caster angle?

I ask because I am undecided if I should get the TF sport arms(which look cooler) or some drop brackets. I should mention My Jeep's control arm bushings are dry, cracked, and showing signs that they need replaced and I have an occasional
wobble that I am trying to figure out. I know I can buy drop brackets and new control arm bushings for a fraction of the cost of new arms so if is the way to go I'd much rather do that.

Sorry to continue the thread derail.

 

I'll take steel all the way. My skinny old ass needs all the help it can get adding ballast.

I used to go through this calculation all the time with my dirt bike riding buddies. Big old fat asses arguing about how to shave a couple of ounces...