Contact "Ibuildembig" on this forum also owns Dickeye fabworx . He is the yogi koodoo of all things Jeep . He can help you I assure you . Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Thanks for the name, I hope someone says I'm the Yogi koodoo of something someday hehheh...

 

The slave is one part where you don't want to go cheap or rebuilt. Luk brands are great, they make one of the best replacement clutches for our YJ's. If you can swing it I'd definitely go with the external clutch fix and get rid of the crappy internal design, that is on my to-do list. The difference in changing out the external if it goes bad would probably be about 6 hours saved labor.

 

I'm fine with spending the extra money for a more high quality part. I suppose I'm just hoping to hear a few testimonials from folks, that have gone through my repeated failures, and now found the Luk brand to be truly different.

I am interested in the external conversion but actually until now didn't realize that this conversion eliminates the part causing me nightmares. I thought this conversion just make it easier to fix...

I think I must start collecting these parts...

Thanks

 

Here is a link to a an external mod.

Leans AX-15 External Slave Swap With Pics! - JeepForum.com

Did mine two years ago on an 89. I did some mods to the master to keep my metal peddle connection and used part of the master plunger rod and part of my peddle rod.

 

Thanks for the link, I have a better understanding of this conversion now. Other than being a bit concerned with collecting all the accurate parts it looks pretty easy to do. I'm not, however, understanding what you mean by wanting to keep your "metal peddle connection" though?

 

Swap to the external slave. I did I was have it go dead with every weather change. One of the best thing I have done.

 

So, it looks like the conversion is truly the best solution... Does anyone who has already done this have any further advice on the subject of the conversion process?

At this point I'm also wanting to spend more for a higher quality external slave but have not yet search to see my brand options. From my peaking at the external conversion thread it sounds like there may be a kit. But I'm interested to hear what some of you all here have used?

Since I've also had to replace my autozone master cylinder after just 6 months use I'm thinking to toss the master far far away with the old slave too....

 

What exactly failed? Was it the cylinder itself or the line or the connection? You said you had to epoxy the connection so if that's the case then the slave didn't fail the line did. The adaptor from the plastic line to the steel on the slave has both the flare fitting and quick connect, at least on the one I have. If it was the cylinder that actually failed, did you change the master also. I just did mine and they recommend changing the master or voiding the warranty of the new one.

 

When I used the epoxy it was on the area of where the metal(coming from the master) goes into the slave cylinder connection. I epoxyed over and around the "u-clip" (I attached a photo to be sure we're talking about the same spot).

This was the one time that the unit lasted longer and when I removed the unit for replacement this one time the unit showed no signs of a leaking connection as the cause. (the epoxy was clean with no sign of fluid on it). Nevertheless, I felt lucky I was able to remove the connections without damaging them so when I replaced the part again I DID NOT use epoxy.

I honestly feel the o-rings or the fitment of the line into the unit is an issue in and of itself. I read somewhere that the some aftermarket internal clutch slave cylinder connections are about 1mm too wide. This extra wideness is suggested to be enough for the cheap o-rings to push past the lines thus causing a leak at the line connections. I don't know if this is true, but it does seem to make sense, (I have no original unit to measure the aftermarket unit against.

I had not heard I should change both master and slave at the same time, however, on my most recent swap-out I changed the master about 1 week before the slave blew.

 

I found this if it's your line that's failed and not the actual slave cylinder. It's stainless and eliminates the quick connect.

716130IR - Advance Adapters - Clutch Hose & Fittings 42in Stainless For 1987-95 Jeep Wrangler with Internal Hydraulic Release Bearings YJ

 

Thanks for this suggestion... a previous owner must have done this for me cause I've got stainless steal from the master to the slave. Nevertheless this is a good point for someone else that may come across this thread.

-David

 

on my autotec replacement they used a o ring instead of a proper flaired fitting receiver.causing the leak at quick connect.I removed that half from old clutch parts seeing proper flaired fitting receiver on it .tryed it .then no problems with leakage.........o rings aren't meant for flaired fitting :\

 

I'm kinda following what your saying but not sure I completely understand. And what you speak of sounds like a very important factor for myself and others who may have this issue.

Are you talking about the connection in the photo below? This time around this autozone piece feels more snug and also the thick black rubber ring here seems a better fit. Previous ones I got from autozone were about 1/3 the thickness. Still, I can't bring myself to go autozone again... I wheel out to some VERY remote locations at times and for peace of mind will need to eliminate autozone.

Something else that is throwing me outta the loop is that I've got the 2.5L. Though allot is similar to the 6 cylinder models there seems to be enough difference with the transmissions and clutch setups to add a touch more confusion. :/

-David

 

it was at the quick connection outside of bellhousing. steel line into plastic quick connection housing .autotec tryed to seal a flaired fitting to a o ring where you should have a proper female flaired fitting..hope this helps

 

Ah, okie, gotcha...


Thanks

 

Yes I have a 2.5L engine with an AX-5 trans

 

No you need to get parts for the 2.5L and the AX-5 they are somewhat different

 

Thanks, yeah, I've been hunting online for about 3 hours trying to find deals on the ax-5 pieces... likes like the major difference in the bell housing is having the spot for a Crank Position Sensor. This is one of the easy differences to see in photos but I'm sure there are more...

Did you use your original master cylinder or go with a new master / slave kit?

When I get all the pieces of the puzzle together I'll attempt the best photos and documentation I can for the other 4 bangers out there with ax-5 internal slave issue...

 

Got new master and slave. They were built with plastic not what I was used to.

 

Im on the same boat as everyone else here and I gather you don't want to cheap out on the clutch master and slave. So any recommendations to get parts would be great. Thanks in advance

 

When I changed mine it came apart at the same place, where the lines go into the slave. Yeah, it's a crappy design. I tapped the clip further in until it came out the otherside then pinched the ends.

 

Hi Guys
I just got my first wrangler, it's a 91 with a 2.5 and a five speed I don't know what type of tranny but it is an internal slave. The previous owner had the master and slave changed last summer and just changed the clutch a couple of weeks ago. It shifts fine but after about twenty miles it gets hard to get in the lower gears when stopping at a traffic light. No grinding just won't go in smooth. If I double clutch it seems to go in easier.
My question is it the master/slave going out again and how can I check it?
No leaks anywhere and the pedal still feels like it has pressure.

Any suggestions would help I've always wanted a wrangler and I think this is a great forum.

Thanks

 

I second jokerchief with investigating the master cylinder first... Its pretty cheap and easy/quick to replace. If the internal slave is what causing the issue you may have leakage at the bell housing, under the jeep that covers it. I also recommend following the lines down to ensure no leaking is coming from them. The symptoms you describe sound similar to when my clutch (both master and slave) have gone out, however, if you've had these symptoms for more than a 100-200 miles, without it getting worse then air in the system or something else MAY be the cause...

If its looking like an internal slave, come on back here. The conversion is already well written out for the 6 cylinder models but there are a few minor part differences for us 4 bangers. I've collected about 1/2 the parts to do the conversion and hope to do it within the next two weeks.

-David

 

Check fluid level in master cylinder. Look for leaks in the cab on firewall at the peddle connection. Look underneath at the bell housing for a drip. Brake fluid has a distinct feel.

If you have a leak bleed it and see what happens.

No leaks happy days. When was tranny fluid changed last? If you don't know change it.

Choices 75W-90 regular or Synthetic and you can also use a good 10W-30 if preferred regular or Synthetic.

Lots of brands some swear by Redline, Royal Purple, valvoline synchromesh etc again personal preference.

Clean good brand name may help a lot.

 

Thanks Guys
I'll check for leaks tomorrow, I know it's been over a 400 miles since the tranny was pulled and the clutch replaced. Could it still have air in the slave after this amount of use. It just started doing this and only after if gets hot, about 40 miles on the interstate and then its real hard to get into gear (NO GRINDING NOISE) at stop sign or traffic light. I'll check the fluid in the tranny tomorrow also to and call the previous owner and ask if was changed recently. Thanks all

 

Went through this issue on my '95 3 months back. Glad the '95 is a 1 piece fix and forget unit, no bleeding blah blah.

FYI.......that brake fluid takes Rhino liner right the hell off. Don't ask me how I know.

 

Question about converting to the external slave.

I've now collected most the parts for the internal to external slave. The Transmission is out and eagerly awaiting the arrival of packages

I have not yet, however decided on what external slave to purchase. I see allot of options. Most are with buying kits that include both a new master and slave cylinder. I'm not sure how cheap is too cheap to go, I see the crown brand for $141.00 shipped and I see the Dorman brand for 92.00 shipped.

My master cylinder is new, so I'm also wondering if there are suggestions about buying JUST the slave cylinder. I believe if I go this route I will also have to track down or make a new hydraulic line between the two?

Or perhaps do all the master cylinders have the some hydraulic connection size? If this is the case I would just track down a slave cylinder and hose for a 94' YJ.....

Any help would be great...

Crown brand:
Crown Automotive 52104113 Clutch Hydraulic Assembly : Amazon.com : Automotive

Dorman brand:
Amazon.com: Dorman CC649002 Clutch Combination Master Slave Cylinder Assembly: Automotive

 

The crown one looks like it has a stainless steel hose. Not sure if that would make a difference or not. I bought mine from O'reilly's. Paid more than either one of those you listed. The first one had a defective check valve, the second one is working good. Let us know which you go with.

 

bolt right up?



I just purchased the same assembly from O'Reilly's. I am in the process of doing a conversion on my 1990 YJ 2.5 with AX-5 tranny. The new master/slave assembly I got was for a 1994 2.5, AX5, and my question to you is, did the master bolt up using the same bolt and bracket as the old master/internal slave? The bolt pattern on the new one measures about a 1/2 inch longer and would require drilling a new hole, which is not a problem, but I was unsure if I can just buy another bracket and hopefully it bolts right up?

Any help will be appreciated, thanks

 

I'll be doing a clutch job on my van at some point this summer. The slave cylinder is internal, reading this thread didn't leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling. I went with a LUK part, since Ford no longer makes the slave cylinder anymore either. A good friend suggested LUK, my fingers are crossed.

What sucks is aftermarket parts like these are hit or miss at best, and I'd venture to say there's probably about a 33% failure rate with many of them in a very short time period.

 

Yep, I almost wish I had gone with an automatic, this clutch stuff if a pain in the ass. I also can't understand how few cars have a bullet proof mechanical clutch. Chevy makes them, I have it on my 55' Chevy, simple and bullet proof, and really no problem with the amount of pressure it takes to operate (my Chevy runs 540 HP to the wheels). No matter what I always pop my trans out of gear at a stoplight anyway, even with my Jeep with it's weeny little clutch and trans.

 

go with the NAPA parts. replaced the clutch master on my 90 twice, junk from advance auto.... was told by a Chrysler mechanic where the master clutch rod passes thru the firewall its a little offset causes early failure of CHEEP master cylinders, my current clutch master has been on several years....go napa

 

Hey man after doing the same exact thing as you I finally did the external conversion about two weeks ago and its a damn great thing haha. Its really not as difficult as it seems to be, I personally just got an ax5 out of like a 95 wrangler because it was already set up with what you need ( bell housing, output shaft plate, throwout bearing fork and clip) but if not there simple parts to come across but you just have to make sure you get the bolts that mount the bell housing to the tranny from a 94 and up grand because the bolts in yours have a few that will be too long and will not fit. But it is a fairly simple operation to do I got it done in one night on the floor. You can pick up the hydraulic setup , the master, line and slave as one per filled and bled unit from Napa for about 170 bucks. The only difference is that your going to have to do a little rigging to drill out the eyelet on the master that goes to the pedal so it will fit and the lower bolt hole to mount it to the fire wall does not line up by a long shot so I just cut that bolt off haha. But its worth all the time and energy because it is a more reliable system when complete, I hope this helped ya out a bit man

 

Thanks for all the info, I have to say this forum has been a tremendous help. It is great getting the straight talk from enthusiasts like yourself, no sales pitch BS, just straight how to's and what to expect and avoid.

 

No problem brother, any other issues with it you know where to ask

 

Im having the same problem I put a new $100 and some dollar internal slave cylinder in may 87 wrangler yj got it all back together went to bleed almost bleedout heard a pop and fluid ran out of bell house not sure what happen any ideas