I never took my doors off and rarely open the back doors, but when I was washing my Jeep last week I noticed that the passenger side rear door was hard to open and close. It almost seemed like the hinges were tightened or something. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks
joeg679
Same issue
I have a 2014 Rubicon doing the same thing. Right rear passenger door is super-hard to open and close. The dealer said they tried to lube it but it needs new hinges. $600. No thanks. Did you ever figure yours out or did you get a similar response. Seems ridiculous for a car with only 40K miles on it. I mean, they're meant to remove right?
Same as you, I've never had mine off.
I have a 2014 Rubicon doing the same thing. Right rear passenger door is super-hard to open and close. The dealer said they tried to lube it but it needs new hinges. $600. No thanks. Did you ever figure yours out or did you get a similar response. Seems ridiculous for a car with only 40K miles on it. I mean, they're meant to remove right?
Same as you, I've never had mine off.
For me, its the left rear door. 
Its impossible to even slam shut. When open, Bruce Willis could kick it, accelerating it to near the speed of light, but it will quickly slow back down to a complete stop just before latching closed.
Its impossible to even slam shut. When open, Bruce Willis could kick it, accelerating it to near the speed of light, but it will quickly slow back down to a complete stop just before latching closed.
Passenger side/rear, yeah. I changed all four doors with the Delrin hinge pin liners when I heard about them a few years ago and my doors were a bit slow to swing. Probably had 30-40K on the Jeep at the time. For some reason the passenger/rear door was real tough to lift off. Lots of corrosion on all 4 sets of old, original liners. I recommend anyone to change their stock one`s out before it`s a big problem.
The factory hinge liners are stamped metal. The ones on my JKU are still the factory ones and not having any issue. I replaced the ones on my TJ in 2018, and for a while kept the original factory ones which were almost good enough to put back in. Very little rust on them. They now have the delrin liners. You may have to sand the outer surface of the delrin liners to get them in. I just chucked them in a drill (bolt and nut through the liner then chucked) to reduce the outer edge of the liners so they would go into the hinges.
I thing the part of the country and the winter weather has an effect on the factory liners. My TJ has always been a Southern Jeep, so little exposure to snow, ice and deicing activity on the road. It spent two years in Coastal Virginia, the 6 years in Nevada and has been in S. Georgia ever since. My JKU has never been north of Georgia since it left Toledo on the truck.
If you don't want to replace the liners, loosen the top nut on the hinge pin and remove the bottom. Then work the door back and forth pull up until you can get a small gap between the upper part of the hinge and the lower. Lubricate both pins with light oil and work it back a forth until the door moves more easily. If the door on it's own has not gone back down to close the gap on it's own, keep working. Once it has gone down and is properly aligned, the doors should move easily and you can then snug up the nuts on the pins if you want. You really only need one nut at most, and maybe not even one. If you lock your doors in a parking lot, they can't steal doors if they can't get them open.
I thing the part of the country and the winter weather has an effect on the factory liners. My TJ has always been a Southern Jeep, so little exposure to snow, ice and deicing activity on the road. It spent two years in Coastal Virginia, the 6 years in Nevada and has been in S. Georgia ever since. My JKU has never been north of Georgia since it left Toledo on the truck.
If you don't want to replace the liners, loosen the top nut on the hinge pin and remove the bottom. Then work the door back and forth pull up until you can get a small gap between the upper part of the hinge and the lower. Lubricate both pins with light oil and work it back a forth until the door moves more easily. If the door on it's own has not gone back down to close the gap on it's own, keep working. Once it has gone down and is properly aligned, the doors should move easily and you can then snug up the nuts on the pins if you want. You really only need one nut at most, and maybe not even one. If you lock your doors in a parking lot, they can't steal doors if they can't get them open.
It will be an absolute pain to get the door off the hinge as it sits right now. The sad but less painful way may be to replace the hinges. The power of metal corrosion.
Your problem is not with the hinge on the door - that has the pin. Your issue is with the hinge on the door opening. With the door hanging on it, it will be a pain. Normally even when fitting new doors that half of the hinge is not messed with.
Looking at Mopar Parts Giant listing - The two door hinges are $57.63 each or $115.26 for two. The upper body half is $60.12 as is the body lower half for $120.24 or a total of $235.55, plus shipping and sales tax.
The pins themselves are only $16 (for the door half of the hinge), however unless you have a press, you can't get the old ones out. I tried that to refurbish a hinge on the TJ. After two days of trying to drive the pin out, even with a 4# sledge and a large vise I gave up and ordered new hinges (they were still available then).
You may still need the bushing kit. The factory metal bushings are listed separately further down the parts list for $16. Not clear if that is for one or a pair as it has images of both. I would NOT go back with the metal bushings since you have had issues, so you can add $30 somehting to them.
If you want to try to get the door off, again, loosen but do not removed the retaining nut on the bottom of the pin. place a piece of two by four under the door bottom, making sure the wood for the block is below the edge of the door (so you don't damage that as others have done). With a jack put upward pressure on the door. Lubricate as you desire the joint of the hinge to try to get some lube into the bushing. Put enough pressure on the door that you are actually picking up the Jeep on that side.
The reason you are not completely removing the nut, is that when the door comes free it will shoot upward. There have been many comments by WF members of what happened to their doors when that occurred. Some had a rope through the open windows up and over a rafter so it wouldn't fall, others had the door hit something and incur damage. Again the reason the nut is loose is so the door will not come up suddenly, but should with a bit of time come loose and move upward. Hopefully at that point you can take the press off (lowering the jack) and be able to lift the door off. You may have to wiggle it back and forth.
Looking at Mopar Parts Giant listing - The two door hinges are $57.63 each or $115.26 for two. The upper body half is $60.12 as is the body lower half for $120.24 or a total of $235.55, plus shipping and sales tax.
The pins themselves are only $16 (for the door half of the hinge), however unless you have a press, you can't get the old ones out. I tried that to refurbish a hinge on the TJ. After two days of trying to drive the pin out, even with a 4# sledge and a large vise I gave up and ordered new hinges (they were still available then).
You may still need the bushing kit. The factory metal bushings are listed separately further down the parts list for $16. Not clear if that is for one or a pair as it has images of both. I would NOT go back with the metal bushings since you have had issues, so you can add $30 somehting to them.
If you want to try to get the door off, again, loosen but do not removed the retaining nut on the bottom of the pin. place a piece of two by four under the door bottom, making sure the wood for the block is below the edge of the door (so you don't damage that as others have done). With a jack put upward pressure on the door. Lubricate as you desire the joint of the hinge to try to get some lube into the bushing. Put enough pressure on the door that you are actually picking up the Jeep on that side.
The reason you are not completely removing the nut, is that when the door comes free it will shoot upward. There have been many comments by WF members of what happened to their doors when that occurred. Some had a rope through the open windows up and over a rafter so it wouldn't fall, others had the door hit something and incur damage. Again the reason the nut is loose is so the door will not come up suddenly, but should with a bit of time come loose and move upward. Hopefully at that point you can take the press off (lowering the jack) and be able to lift the door off. You may have to wiggle it back and forth.
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